Would like to know how much boost I could run non intercooled and intercooled, preferring non intercooled.
The engine was broke in on the dyno and was making a little over 460hp @ the flywheel, would like to see about 500hp @ the wheels if possible.

The engine is a newly built 383 with the compression @ 9.8 to 1 and the following specs, going into a 95 m-6 chassis.
.
Block: GM 1 pc LT1 Factory roller cam block, bored and honed with torque plates .030" oversize, 4- bolt mains with ARP main Studs, zero decked, line honed, race prepped, new brass freeze plugs and cam bearings installed.

Crank: Callies 4340 forged steel, 3.750" stroke, internal balance

Rods: Callies 4340 Forged Steel rods 5.850” with ARP rod bolts

Pistons: SRP Forged Pistons -16 cc,

Rings: Total Seal Performance Moly rings

Bearings: Clevite H-series Performance

Camshaft: Comp Cams Hyd Roller 224/230 duration @ .050", .600/.605" Lift 114 LSA

Lifters: Comp Cams Hyd roller

Timing set: GM Extreme Duty Roller Performance timing set

Oil Pump: Melling Performance HV oil pump

Head Gaskets: Fel Pro Performance gaskets throughout engine

Head Bolt: ARP Head Bolt Kit

Heads: AFR 210cc CNC ported heads with 2.05"/1.60" valves, Comp Bee Hive valve springs, titanium retainers and hardened locks

Rockers: Comp Cams Hi-Tech Stainless Steel 1.6 Ratio Roller rockers with 7/16 rocker studs

Pushrods: Comp Cams Magnum Series hardened

Damper: Performance Hub and SFI damper

Oil Pan: Canton 6 qrt road race style pan

Intake Manifold: LT4 Intake manifold ported and decked to fit engine

Intake Manifold Bolts: ARP Stainless Steel

Throttle Body: Holley Billet 58mm

All help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Brad

 

That's a stout engine, so your only concern will be controlling IATs.
I ran 7 pounds of boost non-intercooled, but my IATs were 50-60 degrees above ambient, which is really too high.
With those modest hp goals, you could probably run 5 pounds and exceed those hp goals and still keep the IATs safe.
An alternative to an intercooler is a methanol injection system, which will lower IATs but not have the complex plumbing of an intercooler.
With an M6, drivetrain loss can be estimated at 13%, so you will probably achieve 400 rwhp NA. So all you are currently seeking is a 100 rwhp gain, which is not that much, considering.

 

With a meth kit of IC you should be able to run quite a bit. I would say 12-14psi, but without a cooling your IAT's its going to be much less.

 

So your thinking I would be safe to run 5PSI with no cooling and how much HP do you think that would gain me.
If I go with cooling, which is the better way to go.
My plan was to buy a used Vortech or small Procharger and run it non intercooled as a street car and maybe few track runs, than a few years later maybe go with a D1SC intercooled and turn the boost up some. (good or bad idea?)
Thanks
Brad

 

buy the d1 and nothing smaller imo! that engine will max the flow capability of the p1. I had a p1sc on a 383 running 7lbs, it flatlined at 450whp at 4500rpm and would not make anymore power. The p1 just does not do well with bigger engines, they work best with 350ci or less. Contact epp, bob will help you with your goals. Also I would not run a centri blower with no ic, atleast get a meth kit.

 

Good info, What is involved in a meth kit.
Thanks
Brad

 

Methanol reservoir, lines, solenoid. Just like a nitrous dry kit, but cleaner.

 

I would also look into a t trim and a aftercooler.

 

The better meth kits include a controller, I think they are called progressive. That is, they start out at a certain rate, and increase the amount of fluid injected as boost increases. The brand I use calls it their Stage II System.
The biggest issue with meth as your cooler is keeping the bottle from going empty. That takes mostly good sense and a good warning LED system implemented. I always carry a spare gallon of fluid with me, just in case.

 

I would not run more than 15lbs with SRP pistons. I blew a hole in one at 18lbs.

 

Google Devil's own injection.

I helped this guy start his business!

I ran his homemade alky kit on my GTP years back before he went "pro."

It was only $160 then!

You can still make your own for that cheap then upgrade as you want.

Easy "reservoir" would be to use your windshield washer fluid tank and tap the bottom. Just refill it as needed. Worked awesome.

 

Snow Performance is another water/meth kit maker, but I would not run any forced induction without an intercooler because all it takes is a really hot day and if you're hammerring on it high IAT's and boom, blown head gasket or a hole in some pistons. I'd rather have the peace of mind of the IC.
For the record I have a Procharged MC SS with a huge air to air IC and a Snow water/meth kit, that way I can run max boost at all times and not worry about it.