LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

curious about Solid Roller setups

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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by sepno77
ok well that sounds easier then I thought. So far what I will need is a new solid roller cam, Comp 888-16's, longer pushrods, and how bout springs I have the crane cams dual springs that went out of production, would those be sufficient or will I need stronger ones?

Bolo how is the street ability w/ that cam you have that spins to 65-6700?
Best thing to do is whatever cam you decide on you talk to the cam manufacturer and/or engine builder on what would be the best spring. Because you are more than likely going to be using a link bar style lifter your pushrods will be significantly shorter since the lifter body is taller. My pushrods are 6.125". It's nice because I can use a 5/16" pushrods w/out having to worry about deflection.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 03:18 PM
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If you have a stock bottom end forget about going solid roller (BOLO excluded ) To run one effectively, they will need to be revved over 6200 rpm which, IMO, is the safe limit for a stock shortblock.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ThreeHonks
If you have a stock bottom end forget about going solid roller (BOLO excluded ) To run one effectively, they will need to be revved over 6200 rpm which, IMO, is the safe limit for a stock shortblock.
Well I think that can easily be overcome by dropping the oil pan and replacing all the rod bolts w/ ARP. I wouldn't mind spinning the engine to 6500.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by sepno77
Well I think that can easily be overcome by dropping the oil pan and replacing all the rod bolts w/ ARP. I wouldn't mind spinning the engine to 6500.
There's nothing easy about changing the rod-bolts on a stock LT1. They aren't capscrews like LS1 have, they are pressed in. This means you'll have to remove the rods, take them down to a machine shop to have the ARPs pressed in, then have the rods resized. By the time you go through all this trouble, you may as well freshen up the rest of the bottom end seeing as it will all be apart anyways. Not easy, and not cheap. Just a little heads up
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Colin91Z
There's nothing easy about changing the rod-bolts on a stock LT1. They aren't capscrews like LS1 have, they are pressed in. This means you'll have to remove the rods, take them down to a machine shop to have the ARP pressed in, then have the rods resized. Not easy, and not cheap. Just a little heads up
Thanks for the heads up. I was thinking about making this a lil project for when I got my heads ported. I could just pop them up takem to the shop and get'em done. And I might not need to get the rods resized that depends on the condition of the stock rods, right? This is better then risking it break and have to do a complete rebuild 383.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by sepno77
Thanks for the heads up. I was thinking about making this a lil project for when I got my heads ported. I could just pop them up takem to the shop and get'em done. And I might not need to get the rods resized that depends on the condition of the stock rods, right? This is better then risking it break and have to do a complete rebuild 383.
I'm no expert on the subject, but I've been told that anytime you change rod bolts of this style, the rod must be resized. Something to do with getting "out-of-round" during the pressing process or something.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 05:38 PM
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the rods must be resized with ARP bolts. They exert a different clamping force than a stock bolt. Some peobably dont resize and get away with it, but do it once, do it right
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by sepno77
ok well that sounds easier then I thought. So far what I will need is a new solid roller cam, Comp 888-16's, longer pushrods, and how bout springs I have the crane cams dual springs that went out of production, would those be sufficient or will I need stronger ones?

Bolo how is the street ability w/ that cam you have that spins to 65-6700?
Again, it all depends on seat and open pressure on the springs that you have. Especially for an s/r set up. The cam I have is mild and drivable, yet nasty sounding. Shift points are set @ 6800 and still on stock short..knock on wood
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ThreeHonks
If you have a stock bottom end forget about going solid roller (BOLO excluded ) To run one effectively, they will need to be revved over 6200 rpm which, IMO, is the safe limit for a stock shortblock.
Absolutely correct. I decided on this set up last year, just wanting to see how far and how much I can get out of the stock short block.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by BOLO
Absolutely correct. I decided on this set up last year, just wanting to see how far and how much I can get out of the stock short block.
well do you think if I change rod bolts to ARP it will hold?

btw my springs are 145lbs seat, and 370lbs open.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by sepno77
well do you think if I change rod bolts to ARP it will hold?

btw my springs are 145lbs seat, and 370lbs open.
I guess it will be stronger. But if you're going that far and dropping the oil pan, I would think about beefing up the whole bottom end or stroking it for more cubes. For a solid roller, you'll need at least 240 lbs @ the seat and 550 lbs open valve springs. Give Lloyd Elliott a call and he'll set you up.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BOLO
I guess it will be stronger. But if you're going that far and dropping the oil pan, I would think about beefing up the whole bottom end or stroking it for more cubes. For a solid roller, you'll need at least 240 lbs @ the seat and 550 lbs open valve springs. Give Lloyd Elliott a call and he'll set you up.
I'll do that when and if I decide to go the solid roller rout. As of this year I plan on getting my heads ported and a new transmission so building the 383 will have to wait till next year. I made this thread mainly to familiarize myself w/ all the parts involved in making a solid roller build. I had no idea what shaft mount rr were and iv never seen lifters like the ones pointed out in this thread before. I have learned allot thanks to everyone who posted in my thread. Anyone else who has more to add is more than welcome.
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