LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

curious about Solid Roller setups

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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:38 PM
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Default curious about Solid Roller setups

I am just curious to know how and what it would take to build a solid roller setup. Links, part #, and all sort of info would be appreciated. Seems like if you wanna make big power this is the way to go. Also what to expect out of the drivability. I mean I have a hydraulic custom cam but I don't think I've ever seen a solid roller cam before. From what I've read just need a solid roller cam and special roller rockers but don't understand what that means.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:48 PM
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Don't do a search, cause it won't turn up any information.

-Dustin-
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Bersaglieri
Don't do a search, cause it won't turn up any information.

-Dustin-
Ya I know this info his hidden.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 12:44 PM
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what specifically you want to know?????

it really comes down to how big you wanna go on your cam? Solid roller cams don't lose power due to the valve float issues that hydro rollers go into when the lifter can't "pump" fast enough to keep up with the valve action... so above 6K rpms the solid roller stick will really start to shine...

combine that with agressive ramp angles that solid rollers use and now you have a cam that throughout the range does a better job of controlling the valve thru it's motion. Also when used with top of the line shaft rockers you don't get the flex that stud mount rockers get so now you have the ultimate in high rpm control over your valves.... What that does is allow you to make consistent power in the upper RPM ranges that some heads are designed to operate in.....

Put a set of 227 AFR heads on your car.... single plane intake, blah blah..... you put some stud mount rockers on there, and a hydro roller..... Your valves are gonna go into valve float LONG before you reach the RPM limit of those heads.... So you might dyno say 420 to the wheels ONLY cause you have to shut it down at 6500 RPM's... power will fall off cause your valves start floating...

now put a solid roller cam in there with some shaft rockers and you spin it to 7500 RPMS and power suddenly jumps to 490 RWHP+...... you didn't bolt on 70hp you merely optimized your combo with a cam more suited to the heads you are running..... Solid roller is not for everybody. If your car makes power to 6300-6500 and peaks you don't require an SR. if you think your heads have alot more flow potential upwards of that then you might need one...
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 01:07 PM
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The main difference in parts other then the cam is the lifters. I haven't had a solid roller setup my self but my dad used to run one and from what I've heard you can still daily drive it if you really want but you can expect to be in there adjusting the vales about every 2000-3000 miles. But like stated above it allows the valves to continue to work at higher rpms and the ramps on the cam can be alot more aggressive
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 02:18 PM
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The old rules on solid roller do not apply anymore. Things are much better in the solid roller world.

You dont need to spin a solid roller to the moon to make power, mine peaks at 65-6700.
I have big heads(really too big most think) big intake, big headers, big everything. Its all about how the cam is ground.

The advantage to a solid roller is average power. IMO a solid roller setup correctly will make more average power than a hyd roller. Average power makes heavy cars MOVE.

Setup correctly you do not have to adjust valves every 3000 miles, more wives tale bullshit.

When I set mine up to put the engine in the car, then do a warm adjustment I have never had to adjust more than 3 valves any time I check them which is at 3000 miles(ish) Truth be known I could have left them alone but I am ****.

Last edited by FASTFATBOY; Feb 10, 2010 at 02:27 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 02:41 PM
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I was just saying that's what I've heard I know there have been alot of improvements. I'm glad to hear from somebody that is actually running one that the drivablity is better
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 04:48 PM
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All this info is very intriguing to me. Where would you get a solid roller cam from? And is this pic a picture of the shaft rockers req. to run w/ the solid roller cam?
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by sepno77
All this info is very intriguing to me. Where would you get a solid roller cam from? And is this pic a picture of the shaft rockers req. to run w/ the solid roller cam?
Depending on the cam profile shaft mounts may not be necessary. I am running a mild SR cam and am running stud mount rockers. Have been doing so for the last 3 years and the valve train is holding up well. Running stud mounts may involved adjusting valves more frequently, but I don't mind. I like being that in touch w/ the valve train to make sure the rockers, valves and springs are still in good shape and I like running stock valve covers.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
Depending on the cam profile shaft mounts may not be necessary. I am running a mild SR cam and am running stud mount rockers. Have been doing so for the last 3 years and the valve train is holding up well. Running stud mounts may involved adjusting valves more frequently, but I don't mind. I like being that in touch w/ the valve train to make sure the rockers, valves and springs are still in good shape and I like running stock valve covers.
Ok so your saying that if I wanted to I could just throw on a custom solid roller cam that will spin to like 65-6700 in my setup w/ my 1.6 rr and just have to adj. them every 3,000 miles?
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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Yes you can. It's possible you would not have to adjust them even that often, but there are no guarantees. My shift points are 7200. I have always taken a good look at my rockers/valve tips and they are still in good shape. One of the key reasons I did stud mount rockers is because of my budget and my builder said it really wasn't necessary for my setup. The stock valve covers is a real bonus.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by sepno77
Ok so your saying that if I wanted to I could just throw on a custom solid roller cam that will spin to like 65-6700 in my setup w/ my 1.6 rr and just have to adj. them every 3,000 miles?
Yes, but you will also need to change over to higher pressure mechanical roller springs, lifters, new pushrods(longer). I myself, is new to the solid roller world with great results.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 10:01 AM
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The key to long adjustment interval is poly locks. A good set of those and you're gold. I put a solid flat tappet valvetrain from Comp in a 74 468 vette and looked at the valves once every spring. I never had to adjust all of them, always just a few. The real kicker was the sound. A solid lifter valvetrain is mechanical music mang!!
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 10:10 AM
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The last time I was a frequent participant of a car forum was back in the mid-2000s. Back then, some of the solid roller crowd were experiencing failures of the roller, which would cause all kinds of engine carnage. The guys that were on that forum were pulling intakes and checking lifters 2-3 times a summer. Is this still common or have the lifters been optimized for street use now?
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by brettmc
The last time I was a frequent participant of a car forum was back in the mid-2000s. Back then, some of the solid roller crowd were experiencing failures of the roller, which would cause all kinds of engine carnage. The guys that were on that forum were pulling intakes and checking lifters 2-3 times a summer. Is this still common or have the lifters been optimized for street use now?
Comp Cams and Isky (perhaps more now) make what are called HIPPO (Hi Pressure Pin Oiler) lifters for street use.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 10:37 AM
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Can you post up some part numbers? I've been searching for some hippo's and can't seem to find any. If you can provide some part #'s or a link, that would be awesome.

This is for a friend btw. Why would I need them.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 10:44 AM
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Comp 888-16's have been used in many builds.

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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by BOLO
Yes, but you will also need to change over to higher pressure mechanical roller springs, lifters, new pushrods(longer). I myself, is new to the solid roller world with great results.
ok well that sounds easier then I thought. So far what I will need is a new solid roller cam, Comp 888-16's, longer pushrods, and how bout springs I have the crane cams dual springs that went out of production, would those be sufficient or will I need stronger ones?

Bolo how is the street ability w/ that cam you have that spins to 65-6700?
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 11:57 AM
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You're going to need tougher springs than Cranes 10308 kit. Something to the tune of $400+ a set. Comp 943's or similar work are used a lot. You'll of course needs springs matched to the camshaft. Depending on the grind you might need stud girdles or shaft rockers, don't forget very good pushrods that will handle the aggressive lobes and spring pressure.

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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 02:29 PM
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Morel and Lunati offer H.I.P.P.O. SR lifters also. Rumor has it they are same the same lifters with different names on the box. You can expect to pay $600ish for a good set of H.I.P.P.O. solid roller lifters from whatever company you choose.
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