daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

far from it...6 qrs normally will do the trick...but 7 is easy insurance for me...1.3 60's and front tires 18inches in the air ive got great pressure...i remember back when i had the same problem and used to run 5 qts and in my bolt on car(made 320/355) on drag radials 1st and half of second pressre would drop to 20 from 80ish(new motor i built) added another qt and i would peg the gauge at 5200 and up in 1st and all the midrange pressure was climbing...

this is with the pickup about 3/8 from the pan...my theory is that the crank might put some air in the oil...but the crank is 5 inches above the oil pickup tube and air travels upwards...so how is it going to get down and get sucked up? makes no sense...not to mention ive never spun a bearing since...ive built probably 15-20 stock bottom end lt's all shifting at 6800-7k

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

Not impressed.

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

Did you get rid of that junk Fram filter yet? My buddy had one on his '68 Camaro with a 489 and was just going to run it for the break in. His oil pressure ended up dropping to around 20lbs when he was in the throttle and he had another Fram filter on the shelf so he stuck it on. Pressure was good for a little while then the same thing happened again. After scrapping the "run a Fram for the break in" idea he switched to the Wix Racing he normally runs and his oil pressure is back and he hasn't had a single issue.

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

lol good for u...

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Not yet, I'm in the process of 3 things right now. Swapping my leaking *** tranny lines with some steel braided lines, fixed my rear end leak and now I'm battling a right rear caliper leak. I've littereally went through my stock and 2 new remand calipers. The bolt for some reason keeps striping the break line hole out. I torque them to 22 ft lbs like the chilton's states and 2 kept turning and the other actually torqued all though it still leaked. So now I'm thinking that it's the actually break line that may have a gouch in it or something becasue I really that I was good on my last one and it started to have a slow leak. All times there cooper seals where replaced with the kit that came with them. This may be another thread though.

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

You sure you're on 20ft lbs? That is not tight at all, it shouldn't be stripping the calipers.

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

I have 2 craftsman torque whrench's and they both are set at 22 ft lbs. Hell autozone told me that the thought that might be a little high for an alluminum caliper and then stated that the chilton's could have a miss print, I laughed an said doubt it, I need another caliper since they are lifetime warranty

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Well ****, My caliper issue is fixed and now I'm waiting on some new 45 degree 6an fittings to come in. If any one every runs stainless steel hose for tranny lines make sure you get 45 degree. My 90 degree ones damn near hit the side of the tranny case and is making everything a pain in the ***. I would not be able to run both the top and bottom line this route. Another story I guess. After I get this tranny line thing taken care of the oil pan is coming off to take a peak!

UnitZ28

I would check a rod and crank bearing too while you're there.. i had a similar prob... i had mis boxed .01s on my rods.... WAY too much clearance

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Not real sure on how to do this unitZ28 all though i have a buddy that might come over and check it out.

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

So how does one find the cavitating issue out???? I was told by my machinist that the pump is working if it is pumping oil to the point of getting warm. If the pickup fell off it would not be getting pressure but for a split second when all the oil is a the bottom which makes since. They then told me that the motor was starving oil on the bottom more or less and stated that I may need to restrict the motor with a plug on the rear of the block. I have yet to hear of lt1's needing this, but every car is different apparently. I was thinking that if it was a windage issue that i would install a milodon windage tray, with a new SV melling HP pump and a new pan to eliminate all possibilities. If some one doesn't agree to this then please tell me what else has to do with oil pressure dropping under acceleration. I have installed a mechanical gauge like every one said to start with and that did nothing but give me a nice gauge in the car that still drops under acceleration. It does run 12 PSi higher but still drops! What to buy from this point. I'll be home to work on the car in 3 days from vacation!

93ls7z

iTrader: (2)

You have a PM

JAKEJR

I suspect the pump's sucking air. Time to stop guessing and drop the pan to have a look-see.

If nothing's apparent, I'd first check pick-up to be sure it's solidly attached. Then the torque of the pump to block. If good, I'd remove the oil pump and check the torque on the cover bolts. I'd check the casting for any sign of a crack.

If good I'd remove the cover and check it for flatness. Then I'd check the gear clearances and look for any sign of damage to the gear(s) or pump body.

If I decided to replace the pump, I'd go with a Moroso Blue Printed pump.

Jake

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Thanks and it's glad to see some one from Missouri that will help out!

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Ok what kind of diagnoses can i do with the pan dropped to determine the oil pump is sucking air? Visual inspection of the pickup is the only thing that I would assume you can check really, but what do i know I dumped $1100 in to getting it machined and a new bottom end installed not to mention all my parts! i would assume i wouldn't have to many issues right off the bat. I'll be pulling the pan when i get home regardless because I'm replacing all possibilities at this point!