Fixing rear intake oil leak
#1
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Fixing rear intake oil leak
I know, i know this is not a new post subject but bare with me it got a good question in it.
We all know that LTX based cars are prone to leak oil from the back of the intake.I probably did mine to quickly or maybe it was still oily a bit when i put my RTV.So im about to do it again but i would like to do it correctly.
Simple question:
Its written everywhere to install the intake within 5 mins after the application of the RTV wich is ok with me;
but...
What do i do after that:
-Do i make the entire torque sequence and after wait the 24hours like stated in all manual ?
or
-Do i just begin to thighten the bolts by hand ,stops when the rtv begin to be crush a little and wait 1 hour then do the full torquing sequence and wait for the 24hours(ive read this method a couple of time...)
Thanks a lot,just trying to do it correctly once and for all
We all know that LTX based cars are prone to leak oil from the back of the intake.I probably did mine to quickly or maybe it was still oily a bit when i put my RTV.So im about to do it again but i would like to do it correctly.
Simple question:
Its written everywhere to install the intake within 5 mins after the application of the RTV wich is ok with me;
but...
What do i do after that:
-Do i make the entire torque sequence and after wait the 24hours like stated in all manual ?
or
-Do i just begin to thighten the bolts by hand ,stops when the rtv begin to be crush a little and wait 1 hour then do the full torquing sequence and wait for the 24hours(ive read this method a couple of time...)
Thanks a lot,just trying to do it correctly once and for all
#4
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And yeah it will sit 1,2 or maybe 3 nights,i dont wanna do it again and again
#6
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IMO, It really doesn't matter if it's immediate or 5 minutes. The key is to let it cure. Don't start the engine to let it cure. That will only spray oil all over the fresh sealant and cause you problems. Another thing to completely ignore are those who tell you to somehow deface the block sealing surface by either "scuffing" or "dimpling." It's horse ****. Don't listen to them. The block surface is porous enough for sealant to adhere.
#7
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i use permatex right stuff. quite a bit more expensive but WAY better than regular rtv sealant. and they say it will be set up enough to start and drive by time you get done reassymbling everything. I wouldn't go that far though i'd still let it cure over night. runs about 20 bucks a tube.
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#8
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IMO, It really doesn't matter if it's immediate or 5 minutes. The key is to let it cure. Don't start the engine to let it cure. That will only spray oil all over the fresh sealant and cause you problems. Another thing to completely ignore are those who tell you to somehow deface the block sealing surface by either "scuffing" or "dimpling." It's horse ****. Don't listen to them. The block surface is porous enough for sealant to adhere.