Are they really worth the money for them? Which brands are out there?

 

I too have recently been googling this very same question along with the search option here on this site. I have found that the SLP version is made and labeled for them by Powerbond. These seem to be the preferred units since they have a lip to prevent the belt from coming off the pulley. Aside from this information, I too have been wondering how much power they actually free up AND if the extra power comes in at a useable rpm range. The extra power is pointless if its above 5000rpm's right!!! On a street car that is........

 

I had one on mine with a Hotcam Kit..I shifted at 6100 with it. It ran good.

 

Best left to cars with BELT driven waterpumps or that see SUSTAINED high rpms like road racing that tends to overheat the power steering, and then an underdrive DAMPER is probably a better bet.

On a bone stock car just an underdrive crank pulley is likely to cause idle charging issues, if the car is cammed and has a higher idle that is unlikely though.

Put it this way though, pretty much everyone agrees that pulling the serpentine belt entirely is worth about .1 at the track, if an underdrive pulley underdrives 34% then it stands to reason you should see .034 at the track.

Like I said, leave it to OTHER applications that have belt driven waterpumps. That is probably where cali_bear2003 is coming from with his missguided input. I would probably agree with him on OTHER engines.

 

My misguided input...!!! Thanks for the disrespect, but then again....this is coming from someone who has posted here on this site almost 6000 times. Maybe you need to go out more, the guy simply asked, which brands are good and are they worth the dollar. Maybe you can reply and at the very least help answer his question. Misguided, I too stated that I am also searching for the same information, but am also coming up short with a firm conclusion........are they worth the time and $$$......

 

Do you have an LT1 with it's CAM DRIVEN waterpump?

I already stated that on OTHER APPLICATIONS I would agree with you.

The LT1 has a lot less belt driven load than other engines so it stands to gain less from reducing that load.

Correct me if I am wrong, you don't have an LT1, and your research is based on NON-LT1 engines, correct? If so you your input was misguided. Bout as applicable as if a blue oval guy came here and told us what to use.

 

Hrm... my street car saw north of 5000rpm on a daily basis.

 

If you can get them cheap enough I say why not I got my ud crank pully for $35. For the price of them new you will not see a big enough difference IMO.

 

I seen a dyno test where it gained about 3 peak and up to 5 in some places lower, but that was a 25 % underdriven one.

 

@ attack on post count. Like that has ANYTHING to do with anyone's credibility.

 

Another day in the life with the usuals..

 

Yesterday he was here after 8pm so he has been on since I posted challenging him as to whether he had any LT1 experience or whether his research was LT1 based.

He has not replied.
Look at his garage and post history and it is pretty clear he owns a gen 1 and an LS, NOT an LT1. Making my assessment of his post correct.

As usual though the feeble minded have to try and attack an individual rather than technical merit of a post.

 

I simply chose not to reply.....I do not have an LT1 based engine, but rather a gutless wonder chevy 305 and an LS based engine. I am sorry that I have not replied to 1000+ posts here on this site. I enjoy readying all the questions and information. There is so much to learn from everyone's experiences.

 

Lots of companies make 10% reduction replacement ballancers. Addiing the pully thing... well I dont know you are just adding another part to the engine. as light as it may be, it is part of the rotating mass. a 10% reduction ballancer pully will take mass off wich is the way you should do it. They cost more but make more sense to me.

 

I like my March UD Pulley set.

 

You that bored you keeping time tabs on people now?

 

No just smart enough to do a little fact checking. Took like 1 minute.

You are too feeble minded to carry on a TECHNICAL DEBATE so you resort to attacking my character.

Try just once to carry on a technical debate.


LOTS of folks convince themselves things they spent money on are good without any PROOF.

 

I have one on my car. How much I gained from it??? Im not sure, but if its anything at all IMO for less than 100 bucks its worth it.

IMO its a total package that makes a car fast and no single part is worth the cost by itself.

 

I have no problem carrying on a technical debate. I assure you both of us know quite a bit of good info on what we have.

How bout you try it yourself WITHOUT being a snotty ******* to guys just coming in here and stating what they know and have found.

Ex.
This is your first post to the guy, in which he found offense in that, now you tell me where he shouldn't have.

Tell ya what..if this forum isn't technical enough for you how bout you start one that is?


My intentions here aren't startin crap, but I'm callin you out cause you have this idea you can talk crap to anyone, then come back and say that they attacked you. I'll call ya out every time on it, I've got no problem doing that.

Drop the snotty attitude. You and your LT1 Taxi Cab aren't that special.

Challenge for ya..
Go make a 11 sec pass with 4 people in it, luggage, and the clock runnin..

 

Calling input missguided when he even admits it was based on his gen 1 and LS experience as opposed to LT1 is NOT something that should be found offensive. Hell I said I would have agreed with him if we were talking about something other than the LT1.

One of the guys I work with is building a BOSS 302 for his OLD Mustang, if I told him to run a cam with the same specs as mine would that be good advise? No it would be MISSGUIDED because it is for the wrong application. Same thing here.