So i just got this car, its shortys and a CC306. its untuned, The previous owner thinks there was a knock from the driver side valve cover, to me it sounds like a small exhaust leak, I have no idea what push rods, springs valves anything. I beleave he said they where push rods that came in a cam kit.

So at minimal what do I need to run this cam proper? Im not looking for alot of power out of it and I don't want to replace it cuz it sounds awesome.

I was planning to get the car tuned but I was told I should pick up some new injectors because it has stock ones right now.

Thanks

 

did you buy the black 96 ta?

 

Not positive what you're asking but I'll throw in what I can.

Long tubes would be better for a long legged cam like that.

Stock injectors should be fine if it is cam only, no ported heads.

However, that cam is big for a stock bottom end. It would like ported heads and a little bump in compression.

A 3400+ stall and 3:73 rear gears will be needed to take advantage of the cam's powerband.

It likes to be shifted around 6600 rpms which is a lot for a stock bottom end (rod bolts specifically), up to you if you want to gamble but it wont perform like it should by short shifting it. You will get walked by a well-setup car with a smaller cam.

NSA rockers are preferred and a comp beehive type spring at minimum should be used.

Other than that you will just have to go through it and see what the car already has and what you have to work with.

So much more to a cam swap than just throwing it in the car.

I will say that the cc306 can be a runner when setup right! Port the heads and it can make a really nasty combo.

 

yes its a black 96 ta

And yeah i read it likes ported heads, so i plan to port a extra set I have on the side.

ill look into the springs.

 

I'm gonna take a wild guess here...I'm guessing you are a young'un. Am I correct?

The minimum you need to do to run this cam proper in a stock engine is pull it out and sell it to another young sucker. Screw that it "sounds awesome". That's for ignorant posers with slow *** cars.

If you can't handle that advice, and are still dead set on keeping this cam...you need a good bump in compression to make it run close to right. Even then, this cam is still not a good choice.

Here is a good explanation taken from this link: http://www.f-body.com/forum/printthread.php?t=9063

The CC306 cam is ground on technology that is over 20 years old. The CC306 is effectively all bark and no bite. There are much, much better cams available for LT1's that will provide much more power, much better idle characteristics, and better overall driveability.

The CC306 is listed as 230/244 @ .050", .510"/.540", 112 LSA. With that much spit in the duration and that little of lift, the CC306 is a very choppy cam that is very soft down low. The nose radius and flank rates of this cam are also off in relation to the LSA and lift. In addition with a 244 exhaust valve duration and .540" of exhaust valve lift on a 112 LSA, you are going to have a significant overlap without the effective intake or exhaust lift to support it or the intake duration to support it.

But lets look at this in even more deatail.

There are a few ways to calculate degrees of overlap. I will use the advertised duration and lobe separation angle method since I do not know offhand the specific IVO or the EVC timing of the CC306 camshaft.

First you add the advertised intake and exhaust duration together. Then you divide that sum by 4. Then subtract the LSA. Then multiply that by 2.

290+307 = 597
597/4 = 149.25
149.25-112 = 37.25
37.25 * 2 = 74.5

So the total valve overlap is approximately 74.5°. Like mentioned above, the profile of this cam cannot effectively support the overlap. Thus you end up with a rough cam that doesn't make really good power for what it is.

 

Hmm iv been considering a hot cam kit to replace it. but i have heard some people say they can get the cc306 to run fine and others say its to much for a mostly stock motor.

 

hotcam is another fail of a cam IMO.

I know I'll get jumped for that but there are MUCH better lobe choices than that.

Are there hotcam cars that run good? Of course, but they would run better with a less lazy cam.

 

skip the hot cam too

 

A cc503 would be a decent OFF THE SHELF cam for what you are looking for...make sure you use some good valve springs such as Patriot Golds.

 

I like the CC503 a lot. The XFI268 is a good candidate as well, if you're willing to put some money in the valvetrain. I wouldn't run it with cheap springs and rockers though.

 

If we are talking about a smaller duration cam to keep the powerband down for a stock shortblock than the Lunati Voodoo 60121 has my vote. It makes great power on stock cubes and is a blast to drive

 

You DO NOT need a spring like that with the cc305 or the cc306. It doesnt take alot of valve spring to handle either one of those cams at all.
I'm running the cheap comp. 987 springs and can spin the motor to what ever the pcm will let me with ZERO issues.

First thing you need to do is figure out what the noise your hearing is and fix that. Then get some longtubes and a good mail order tune as a start and then go from there. Most of the GOOD lt1 tuners have done lots of cc306 tunes and they can get really close on a mail order. As long as your willing to spin the motor to atleast 6400 that cam works fairly well with stock heads. Not the best obviously but it can perform well.

 

Well like i said before this car is my cruise car, not my race car. I have a LS1 that already goes fast.

This trans am needs too look great, witch it does. Sound good witch it does. and be reliable to go from Austin to Dallas if I want too. or just to the store and back on weekends.