Wolfe Roll Bar
I've got one but haven't had it installed yet. Did you order the jig-notching? Mild steel or chrome-moly?
Hopefully you don't mind paying what it costs to ship it. Wolfe charged me $250 for shipping.
Hopefully you don't mind paying what it costs to ship it. Wolfe charged me $250 for shipping.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: SE Michigan
They charged me $175 for shipping. Total cost was $692.50 (they gave me a 10% discount for some reason ... and I didn't ask). got the mild steel with black powder coat, chrome-moly was just too much. I hope I'm happy with it.
Sounds like he got a bolt in since its already powdercoated, although might still be a weld in. I've got wolfe 6pt aswell. So far I'm very happy with it although I havn't driven the car since I installed it.
they bolt to the floor pan? i priced having a CM made by racetech, installed and welded to the frame 2,200. i just dont see a cage attached to the floor pan helping the suspension any or being too strong in a crash.
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I have the Wolfe CM 6 point bolted in my car, it sandwiches the floorboard with a 1/8 inch plate with grade 8 locking bolts.
I can jack up my car right behind the front tire and the rear tire will come off the ground almost the exact same time as the front tire does.
My chassis is VERY stiff, I also have Gobal West road race frame connectors. Some of the nicest, best fitting, strongest frame connectors out there IMO. You cant see them AT ALL.
This bar fits VERY WELL, if you buy the one with the rear bars that go straight back...that one is kinda hard to get the plates on the bottom as its over the gas tank. They make two versions. I hade the fuel pump access hole cut in the floor, I dropped the tank down on the straps and reached through that hole to put them on.
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Verdad Gallardo You would be wrong............where do you think a weld in is welded to? The floorpan............
I have the Wolfe CM 6 point bolted in my car, it sandwiches the floorboard with a 1/8 inch plate with grade 8 locking bolts.
I can jack up my car right behind the front tire and the rear tire will come off the ground almost the exact same time as the front tire does.
My chassis is VERY stiff, I also have Gobal West road race frame connectors. Some of the nicest, best fitting, strongest frame connectors out there IMO. You cant see them AT ALL.
This bar fits VERY WELL, if you buy the one with the rear bars that go straight back...that one is kinda hard to get the plates on the bottom as its over the gas tank. They make two versions. I hade the fuel pump access hole cut in the floor, I dropped the tank down on the straps and reached through that hole to put them on.
I have the Wolfe CM 6 point bolted in my car, it sandwiches the floorboard with a 1/8 inch plate with grade 8 locking bolts.
I can jack up my car right behind the front tire and the rear tire will come off the ground almost the exact same time as the front tire does.
My chassis is VERY stiff, I also have Gobal West road race frame connectors. Some of the nicest, best fitting, strongest frame connectors out there IMO. You cant see them AT ALL.
This bar fits VERY WELL, if you buy the one with the rear bars that go straight back...that one is kinda hard to get the plates on the bottom as its over the gas tank. They make two versions. I hade the fuel pump access hole cut in the floor, I dropped the tank down on the straps and reached through that hole to put them on.
ok so you did a before and after test on 60ft times with and with out you roll bar? i prefer not to bolt or weld to the floor pan for strength. i have subframe connectors as well and can also jack behind the front tire and take that entire side of the car off the ground from that point. i would take the roll bar/cage to the frame and weld there instead. i just dont see the floor pans being thick enough to be safe enough. so why would i be wrong?
Most all rear bars are welded where mine is bolted(floorboard on top of gas tank) or on top of the rear wheelwells through the speaker grills..
Come on man, EVERY Camaro ever made does not have a frame in it, its a "unibody" car. Unless you 25.2 or 25.5 a Camaro the only thing there is to weld the bar to is the floorpan for the hoop and front down bars. You CAN get to the top of the rear framerails but I have never seen a bar in a F body welded there, you cant get the required size plate there becaus the the rear fenderwell.
Most all rear bars are welded where mine is bolted(floorboard on top of gas tank) or on top of the rear wheelwells through the speaker grills..
Most all rear bars are welded where mine is bolted(floorboard on top of gas tank) or on top of the rear wheelwells through the speaker grills..
I would love to see how you do it.
The only place you can get to through the floor for the main hoop is the frame connector(maybe), I would not depend on those welds and that long bar to keep the roof off my head during a roll over if the welds held on both ends, the frame connector could bend. The floor as a unit is much stronger when the bar is installed properly with the sandwich plates or plates welded to the floor.
The only place you can get to through the floor for the main hoop is the frame connector(maybe), I would not depend on those welds and that long bar to keep the roof off my head during a roll over if the welds held on both ends, the frame connector could bend. The floor as a unit is much stronger when the bar is installed properly with the sandwich plates or plates welded to the floor.
you give me too much credit. i dont have a pipe bender or other needed tools. these guys will be doing it . http://www.racetechracecars.com/
