LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Help with adjustments after new cam install.

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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 02:26 PM
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Talking Help with adjustments after new cam install.

Alright had a fun long weekend camming my 1994 Chevy Camaro and just have a couple questions. First of all I can't get the rockers to stay tight and creates a little chadder. I installed the 1.6 Crane Gold RR NSA on a 7/16 rocker stud with guideplates and harden pushrods. I tighten up the rocker bolt to get to zero lash then tightened the hex screw to hold it there and then do a quarter turn on the bolt but they're still getting lose what am I doing wrong?

Second question is that I installed a new 58mm TB HOLLEY and my throttle cable has slack to it and doesn't open my blades all the way? Is there a way to adjust that? I would really appreciate it. Not bad for the first time camming an LT1. I'll put the video of it idling so you guys can see. ThanksThanks
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 02:45 PM
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Is it clatter because the rockers are loose or are you just not used to how noisey rockers are? My Pro Mags are noisy but there is a difference between the noise the rockers make and the noise they make when they are loose so just checking.

After you find zero lash, add your preload and then tighten the set screws instead of tightening them before. That has worked for me very well and I run 1/8" turn preload on my car.

The blades on my TB do not fully open with my factory throttle cable either IIRC.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 03:11 PM
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I mean lose not like so bad there coming off doing 360s but like can jiggle them. A lot of the noise could come from me not being used to them. So when you WOT you don't have any problems?
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 04:20 PM
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Did you soak your lifters overnight so they had no air in them? They might be bleeding down.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 01:04 PM
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What cam did you go with? My set up is close to yours with the same gears.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by imthat1guy
I mean lose not like so bad there coming off doing 360s but like can jiggle them. A lot of the noise could come from me not being used to them. So when you WOT you don't have any problems?
Nope not at all. I have a few thousand miles along with several track passes and dyno pulls on it with zero issues. You can jiggle them with the motor off or running?
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 03:30 PM
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there gonna wiggle a little when the motor is off. Once the motor is started and it builds oil pressure they will stiffen up. Once its turned off they will bleed down and wiggle. You need to set zero lash, preload THEN tighten the set screw.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 06:56 PM
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I went with the cc503 I enjoy the sound of it and a respective amount of power. No I mean I can jiggle when motor is off. I'm not sure I think I'm just not used to them now. Ill clean it right now and post a video. Here is it idling last night. http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_u...ient=mv-google
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 06:58 PM
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I'm putting a few miles on it then I'll pull off the covers and check out. Not many miles and nothing past 3000 rpm
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 04:24 PM
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When the engine is not running, many of the valves will be fully closed. In that condtion you can and should be able to wiggle the rocker arms on those valves side to side. They're not supposed to be rock solid and unable to be moved.

Now, if you can move the roller tip of the rocker arm(s) up and down, without using a LOT of forced, then you may well have an insufficient preload problem.

Many guys report valve train noise when running Pro Magnums and Crane Golds. I personally believe that some, if not most, of that is caused by too little preload. Even Crane warns about that as being a possible cause of lifter failure. One guy even recommended ONE FLAT OF PRELOAD!!!

I still wonder how all that got started anyway. I'd love to see the science supporting such small amounts of preload. Especially since I haven't found any of the cam companies recommending it, except for those lifters specifically designed to run that way.

Jake
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 06:10 PM
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You're doing it wrong, back off the set screws, loosen the nut, get back to zero lash, go 1/2 - 3/4 on the nut THEN tighten down the set screw...
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 06:12 PM
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And how are you verifying you're on the base circle?
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 12:21 AM
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Well I really appreciated your guys Help on this did everything you said and everything has been going very smooth. Still checking on it but haven't had any RR back off. The only thing is haven't found a way to fix my throttle cable yet it not being able to Full open throttle on my Holley 58mm TB. I'm not really to worried about it right now because still breaking it in and not getting on it all to much right now. I took some pics check them out came out real nice.







Here is a bad quality video of it taken with my Droid.

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<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/gnjQA24Oxe8&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/gnjQA24Oxe8&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 12:23 AM
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Alright videos didn't work like that so lets try this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUAv9HpkAsQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnjQA24Oxe8
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