wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Okay last week the check engine light came on for no OBVIOUS reason. Figured it was the battery cause I know its on its last leg. Today the oil gauge started acting real stupid showing pressure actually climb when at idle. Put a new sender in it and the gauge started acting correctly. Now I was out test driving and I braked hard and saw the pressure drop to less than 10# which tripped the check gauges light again.

Sounds like the oil pump pickup huh?. Ironic thing is it was welded on the last time the motor was out. I had a brass brazed spot and two MIG weld tacks holding it on.


Now heres the real crazy part. I will bet money it was partially off or completely off during 6 dyno pulls this last weekend and it must be a certified miracle that the motor is not blown up . Currently, there is no knocking or bad sounds coming from the motor. I also drained the motor and there is no gold flake in the oil. I think these are good signs that there is most likely no bearing damage. Pressures seem seem good accelerating and idling.

My question.
Is there anything else that could cause this problem or is it a near certainty the pickup has fallen off? Whether I sleep tonight depends on the responses to this question.

Thanks guys.

JB_97ws6TA

iTrader: (6)

what pan are you running and how much oil? Is it possible that it is just oil sloshing around in the pan due to not being baffled? It looks like you would have a hell of a time getting that pickup off if you wanted to so I find it hard to believe that it would have simply fallen off in the pan...

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Stock pan.
I even added an extra 1/2 quart over full to test. Did not help.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Sure the gauge didnt just take a crap again? Hit the pan with a rubber mallet and see if you can hear the pick up bouncing around in there

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

AC is a genius.
I hear it bouncing in the pan when I smake it with a hammer. It fell off.

Done ordered a new pump and pickup to have on hand when I tear into it. I will bet I knocked it loose when the jack was under the pan when I pulled the clutch a week ago. Something then told the pan looked like it might be bending some.

Question.
How is this for pulling the pan:
1. Bolt a chain to the front of both heads.
2. Hook chain to cherry picker.
3. Pull the two big motor mount bolts.
4. Lift the motor as much as it will safely go.
5. Loosen the six k-member bolts to lower the k-member an inch or two.
6. Remove the oil pan.
7. Pull the pump.

Someone got a better way?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Far better and more secure than trying to jack it up using the crank hub/snout.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Completely agree there.

Will lifting the motor with the cherry picker be sufficient to pull the pan or will I have to lower the K-member too?

Also what is the clearance betwen the bottom of the pickup and the pan? IIRC about 3/8" - 1/2" or so.

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

You should have 1/4"-3/8" of clearance from the bottom of the pan. 1/2" would be too much. Being the car is a 6 speed you will probably have to lower the K member too. I know you have to with a LS1.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Thanks man.

Hey, one more question.
Once the pump is cleaned of oil. And cleaned we. Will I still be able to weld on it or will the oil have "soaked" into the casting? I have a Melling 10554 BTW.

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

You should be fine if you clean it good.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Great.
I am going to fully weld the tube in, then make a strap, weld it to the tube and secure it with a bolt. Some-bich aint coming out again.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Then duct-tape it, JB Weld it, zip tie it, and finish it off with a nice marine epoxy.

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

The weld in your pic doesn't look like it really penetrated the iron at all. That is probably why it came loose. Just get a good weld this time.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Agreed.

If the motor did starve for oil, if only for a split second. Is that a sure fire death scentance? I am not sleeping tonight because of this. I never heard any lifter lose preload, nothing else bad period and the pressure never went dead zero from what I can tell. Again no goldflake in the 1/2 quart of oil I drained. Also using Mobil 1.

How worried should I be?

MattSapp95_T/A

iTrader: (35)

sleep fine I would almost put money on it that your motor will be fine....

I was in the middle of a burnout one time and afterwards I did a quick glance of all my gauges and the oil pump was dead on 0....I shut it off and assumed it was a oil pressure sensor....Replaced it a re started it and of course still nothing..
come to find out i sheared the oil gear off..

I even put a manual gauge on it and started again and by this time the motor was making some racket...(Shut it off immediately of course)


Anyways I pulled the motor down to be safe and it looked great...bearings were fine too....

Replace your pickup and you will be good to go!! No need to worry about it!



Matt

MTBSully

iTrader: (7)

although i was told it couldnt be done, on my 95 z28 M6 i was able to pull the oil pan and replace it with a new one without touching the K-member bolts at all. I jacked up the motor under the timing cover until the intake hit the firewall, and with a little bit of tlc, i was able to slide it right out. Good luck!

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

What about the long tube headers? Do they have to come off to allow the motor to lift upward?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I would unbolt the Exhaust to where you can move the Engine without it holding you back.

MTBSully

iTrader: (7)

i had my headers bolted in IIRC. Y pipe was off tho

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

I have true duals so it is not a big deal to pull the exhaust from the collectors. That needs some more tweaking anyway.

I guess if the motor is rasied a few inches and the k-member is dropped a few inches and the front bob-weight is pointing up then the pan should slide right out.

Thanks guys.