Intake manifold questions
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 11
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From: Philly
Intake manifold questions Hi guys. I lurk here pretty much eveyday but never post. I got a couple questions now though that I tried to find in the search but no luck. I got a 93 Formula with bolt ons that I'm in the middle of replacing the intake manifold gaskets on. I'm also deleting the EGR/Air. Now I got a couple questions.
-What is the best way to clean the underside of the intake manifold with? It was completely gummed up with grime/oil. I hit it with brake cleaner and de greaser but that didnt really do the trick. Is there anything I could soak the whole intake in?
-Best way to clean the inside of the manifold? That was pretty oil soaked and grimed up too. I hit that with carb/tb cleaner and compressed air but that really didn't do the trick either.
-Thinking about capping of the TB and putting a breather on the passenger valve cover because of all the oil in the intake. I read mixed things on this. Is there any other way to fix this besides using a catch can?
-What are the size of the two bolts to cap off the stock exhaust manifold? I read they are the same size as a Cummins oil drain plug?
-What is the best way to clean the underside of the intake manifold with? It was completely gummed up with grime/oil. I hit it with brake cleaner and de greaser but that didnt really do the trick. Is there anything I could soak the whole intake in?
-Best way to clean the inside of the manifold? That was pretty oil soaked and grimed up too. I hit that with carb/tb cleaner and compressed air but that really didn't do the trick either.
-Thinking about capping of the TB and putting a breather on the passenger valve cover because of all the oil in the intake. I read mixed things on this. Is there any other way to fix this besides using a catch can?
-What are the size of the two bolts to cap off the stock exhaust manifold? I read they are the same size as a Cummins oil drain plug?
The easiest way to clean the manifold is to take it to a shop and have it hot-tanked and bead-blasted. It will cost you a few bucks but it will look like it did from the factory.
You can put a breather on the passenger side valve cover OR use a catch-can. Either one won't hurt.
The stock fittings for the AIR pump on the OEM exhaust manifolds use an M22 drain plug (M18 for 96+ for forum search purposes).
You can put a breather on the passenger side valve cover OR use a catch-can. Either one won't hurt.
The stock fittings for the AIR pump on the OEM exhaust manifolds use an M22 drain plug (M18 for 96+ for forum search purposes).
well it is a good idea to see why your getting in oil to intake. I have used all kinds of things to get oil off of parts. I noticed the other day gasket remover/aircraft stripper will get a lot of grime off of anything. It takes paint very easily, so be careful and use chemical gloves. You could also try a power washer.
As for the air fittings on your headers, your going to need to search because size and fittings vary it seems. I just went with trial and error from home depot. (mine uses caps instead however) You will need block off plates also. You can make them or search ebay for all of this stuff.
Hope this helps
As for the air fittings on your headers, your going to need to search because size and fittings vary it seems. I just went with trial and error from home depot. (mine uses caps instead however) You will need block off plates also. You can make them or search ebay for all of this stuff.
Hope this helps
egr causes most of it. PCV system is some of it. Make sure the entire PCV system is working proper or you can end up with a nasty problem under the valve covers and in the lifter valley.
well it is a good idea to see why your getting in oil to intake. I have used all kinds of things to get oil off of parts. I noticed the other day gasket remover/aircraft stripper will get a lot of grime off of anything. It takes paint very easily, so be careful and use chemical gloves. You could also try a power washer.
As for the air fittings on your headers, your going to need to search because size and fittings vary it seems. I just went with trial and error from home depot. (mine uses caps instead however) You will need block off plates also. You can make them or search ebay for all of this stuff.
Hope this helps
As for the air fittings on your headers, your going to need to search because size and fittings vary it seems. I just went with trial and error from home depot. (mine uses caps instead however) You will need block off plates also. You can make them or search ebay for all of this stuff.
Hope this helps
I also took a different approach to blocking off the AIR ports on the headers since I'm supposed to have all that stuff. I just put about ~10 pennies in each side then screwed the fittings back on and I'm going to scrounge up some hoses that are shaped right to just run down below the engine and out of sight. doesn't leak a bit
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I have cleaned 17 intakes this month alone as I port them and resell them, OVEN CLEANER OVEN CLEANER OVEN CLEANER, I was bead blasting all of them and every friggin one needs all of the bolt holes rechased with a tap to get that crap out. We are talking snapped off bolt heads from f'in media blasting material getting in the holes. I quit blasting them and now I just hit it with some Oven cleaner and let it soak for about 20 minutes then litterally can hose most of it out. Then for the out side to really clean down to the pores of the aluminum casting use toilet bowl cleaner as AKA works bomb style cleaning as it counteracts with the metal and gets it perfect for paint prep. Also if you do have it blasted take a 10mm socket and take bottem pan off then MAKE SURE TO USE A 14MM ALLEN WRENCH TO PULL THE PLUGS FROM THE BOTTOM. DO NOT INSTALL INTAKE IF THEY ARE NOT PULLED AND CLEANED PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!! You guys would not believe the amount of intakes that I have pulled apart that never had the plugs out after being ran for who knows how long, they all had micro sand fibers stuck in there.
Also if your in philly Ohio Im not far away so PM me and I can take care of you if you dont want to **** with this.
Also if your in philly Ohio Im not far away so PM me and I can take care of you if you dont want to **** with this.
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Brett Foote Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 11
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From: Philly
Alright sounds like I'll try soaking it in oven cleaner. I took the pan off on the bottom of the intake and all of that was gummed up pretty good too. What are the plugs your talking about? Theres also alot of grime in the lifterr valley. How should I got about cleaning that besides just whiping it down with a towel? Or should I even try to clean it all out?
either completely delete the factory PCV system and use valve cover breathers or keep it 100%, a half functioning PCV system can cause problems
Last edited by myltwon; Mar 30, 2010 at 04:57 PM.
These plugs are under that pan, probably so thick you cant find them LOL "dig in there real good boy" If you have a 92-93 there are 4 ALLEN head plugs if you have a 94-97 there are 5 ALLEN head plugs. Take a monster 14MM allen wrench and 99% of the time you can put a breaker on it or a nice whack or three with a hammer will get it off. If not heat AROUND the allen plug with a torch so the aluminum expands not the plug. You will need to just wire brush them then throw some RTV on the end threads before reinstalling. ALSO do not forget to run a small philips head or peice of wire through the 2 mini holes that protrude into the intake port floor under each allen plug as they get clogged up good. One of those holes out of the bunch will be super small so dont forget the little guy when cleaning. Just dont mess with the blaster when you dont have to, to much damn work cleaning all the grit out and you will end up like this other poor guy that on here that snapped his fuel rail bolt off 
Keep the PCV valve and supply tube/breather.
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 420
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From: Kempner, TX
I've always advocated the "either/or" approach. EITHER keep the complete PCV system OR convert to breathers, but not a hybrid/combination of the two.
Jake
Deleting the PCV system is a TERRIBLE idea. Without crankcase ventilation, there is no way for the engine to remove moisture and vapor, which will quickly develop sludge and accelerate oil break-down. A half-functioning PCV system is better than not having one at all.
Keep the PCV valve and supply tube/breather.
Keep the PCV valve and supply tube/breather.
edited
If you mean by ". . . completely delete the PCV system . . ." you also mean "and substitute it with valve cover breathers", then I agree.
I've always advocated the "either/or" approach. EITHER keep the complete PCV system OR convert to breathers, but not a hybrid/combination of the two.
Jake
I've always advocated the "either/or" approach. EITHER keep the complete PCV system OR convert to breathers, but not a hybrid/combination of the two.
Jake
