Watts link, LT1, polished aluminum, red powder-coat, updated pics (9-14-10)
#61
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hey congrats for trying it! I feel the same way sometimes, I want to try stuff for the sake of trying and being different
here's a link from my local forum with a guy that put it on with a strange 12 bolt. He had some fitment issues to resolve as well. http://www.mfba.org/showthread.php?t=62662&page=2
Do let us know what the experience is, I'm also going to re look at my full suspension here to help it handle better. I'm after that M3 type suspension that doesn't nose dive, but the whole car squats and stays planted in the turns.
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here's a link from my local forum with a guy that put it on with a strange 12 bolt. He had some fitment issues to resolve as well. http://www.mfba.org/showthread.php?t=62662&page=2
Do let us know what the experience is, I'm also going to re look at my full suspension here to help it handle better. I'm after that M3 type suspension that doesn't nose dive, but the whole car squats and stays planted in the turns.
#62
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The 12 bolt problem is actually huge with this product. I'm having to really work around my 12 bolt with aluminum T/A girdle. It looks like everything is going to fit, but it's definitely close. If anyone has a stock 10 bolt or 12 bolt without the T/A cover it should fit no problem. The heat shield is also another point of contention on my car. It looks like it may take a small modification to adjust the shield to be happy with the Watts
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#64
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Very clean. But am I seeing this right, you are interested in handling but you are running QA1s??? Talk about counterproductive...
#65
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Yes, I know the QA1's are counter productive, but I guarantee this is gonna be better than without the watts link. I know there are all kinds of answers for what someone wants to do on their suspension. I'm just playing around with different stuff and having fun modding this car
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#66
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Yes, I know the QA1's are counter productive, but I guarantee this is gonna be better than without the watts link. I know there are all kinds of answers for what someone wants to do on their suspension. I'm just playing around with different stuff and having fun modding this car ![Angel](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_angel.gif)
![Angel](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_angel.gif)
The QA1s arn't just hurting the grip you have (or can use) but they are hurting the balance of the car (the way it acts, especially at or near limits) and the overall feel and stability of the car. Its not just like a small inconvenience but rather a huge huge drawback.
#67
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Yes, I would not disagree with you on any of those points. I really want to leave the QA1 coilovers (front & rear) on the car for the time being. You would be surprised how well this car handles as it stands, but I know if I changed to the items you mention it could only get better
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#68
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Yes, I would not disagree with you on any of those points. I really want to leave the QA1 coilovers (front & rear) on the car for the time being. You would be surprised how well this car handles as it stands, but I know if I changed to the items you mention it could only get better![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
And it wasn't even comparable to my car with konis on otherwise bone stock suspension (although I have a WS6 so I have the wider wheels/tires and a 32mm front bar stock).
That car never felt connected or stable, and would either push really bad or have bad snap oversteer.
#69
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Well I'm certainly not trying to compare my car to your setup. I've already agreed with you on your point about your opinion on suspension setup. So, I'm not sure what your trying to convince me of here
This is not an exercise to have a full on SCCA car. The suspension is already setup more towards Drag Racing. I just want to take what I have and make it perform better than it does under the current circumstances. I'm already happy with the current setup and I'm really doing this to play around with some items (as I already stated). I may eventually go to some KYB's, or Koni's (etc.), but that is a different day and project. The car is mostly a garage King most of the time, but I love playing around with all the cool parts we have available for the F-body's ![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
FYI: Just to be clear this is a fully suspended WS6 with (3 piece) 18x11's on the rear and a (3 piece) 18x9 up front, QA1 adjustable coilovers front & rear (I agree with you on the QA1 not being right for autocross, but that's what I wanted at the time mostly to tune the suspension for the track), Strano 35/22 hollow bar, BMR T56 tranny brace with poly mount, BMR chrome moly TQ arm (IIRC: -2.5 pinion angle), BMR adjustable extreme LCA's (centered rear tire in wheel well on both sides), MOSER 12 bolt (4:11's), T/A Girdle, BMR upper A-arms, BMR lower a-ARMS (IIRC: camber +6, caster 0, set for the street mostly), BMR K-member with solid mount passenger & poly mount on the drivers side, LS1 spindles, Wilwood big brakes 13.1" 6 piston fronts & 12.2" 4 piston rears, Wilwood braded brake lines front & rear, Baer bump stop correction, MOOG front suspension parts (upper and lower), New GM hubs front. The car was completely setup on a digital alignment table after everything was installed. The car in its current state will walk circles around my old WS6 setup, but that is expected I suppose
![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
FYI: Just to be clear this is a fully suspended WS6 with (3 piece) 18x11's on the rear and a (3 piece) 18x9 up front, QA1 adjustable coilovers front & rear (I agree with you on the QA1 not being right for autocross, but that's what I wanted at the time mostly to tune the suspension for the track), Strano 35/22 hollow bar, BMR T56 tranny brace with poly mount, BMR chrome moly TQ arm (IIRC: -2.5 pinion angle), BMR adjustable extreme LCA's (centered rear tire in wheel well on both sides), MOSER 12 bolt (4:11's), T/A Girdle, BMR upper A-arms, BMR lower a-ARMS (IIRC: camber +6, caster 0, set for the street mostly), BMR K-member with solid mount passenger & poly mount on the drivers side, LS1 spindles, Wilwood big brakes 13.1" 6 piston fronts & 12.2" 4 piston rears, Wilwood braded brake lines front & rear, Baer bump stop correction, MOOG front suspension parts (upper and lower), New GM hubs front. The car was completely setup on a digital alignment table after everything was installed. The car in its current state will walk circles around my old WS6 setup, but that is expected I suppose
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Last edited by 96silverram; 09-07-2010 at 10:17 PM.
#70
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Well it's time for an update on my progress of installing the watts link. I just finished getting the entire watts system mocked up on the car. Checking for fitment issues before I tighten everything down. I will have to modify my heat shield a tiny bit (maybe about a 1/4" by 3/4" long cut, but it should just take a second to mod. I have not adjusted the propeller assembly yet. Just wanted to actually get everything bolted together. You will need some rather large open end wrenches (1 1/16 open end and a 32mm short well socket 1/2" drive for your torque wrench to tighten down the larger nuts to spec). It will also help if you have a pinion angle finder tool. I also decided to take off my CORSA muffler to work on this setup. It only took about 5 minutes to uninstall and it makes it so much easier
Any questions please ask. I'm quickly becoming a mini expert on installing the WATTS ![Secret2](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/secret.gif)
A few pics:
![](http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/96SilverRam/WattsLink-14.jpg)
![](http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/96SilverRam/WattsLink-13.jpg)
![](http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/96SilverRam/WattsLink-16.jpg)
![](http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/96SilverRam/WattsLink-17.jpg)
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![Secret2](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/secret.gif)
A few pics:
![](http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/96SilverRam/WattsLink-14.jpg)
![](http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/96SilverRam/WattsLink-13.jpg)
![](http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/96SilverRam/WattsLink-16.jpg)
![](http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/96SilverRam/WattsLink-17.jpg)
![](http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/96SilverRam/WattsLink-18.jpg)
#72
12 Second Club
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Your car is freaking beautiful but that WATTS link is freaking UGLY. haha. It might do the trick with handling but honestly, I'm going to wait until I have time and money and do another C4 IRS install like my friend/boss Jay did with his SOM Formula.
Definitely post up and let us know how it handles compared to the PHB setup.
Definitely post up and let us know how it handles compared to the PHB setup.
#74
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GER HER ON THE ROAD ALREADY!!! HaHa, just playing man. I dont think its ugly, I can see the beauty in her. It screams to me that the car is ready to make the twists and turns her bitch. I cant wait to hear the report on how she handles. On the bottom right arm extension to the rear end, did you have to weld that to your rear end or does it bolt on?
#75
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Ninjai Ruken,
Everything on the Watts link is a bolt-on, including the large brackets that attach to the axle housing. It's really a very straight forward install. Just requires a lot of patience and fine tuning to install it on the car.
PS: I originally stated back a page that I had clayed the car again, applied Z2 (6 hours), Z5 (8 hours), applied a second coat of of Z5 (12 hours). I'm thinking about putting on another coat of Z5 tonight. The paint is just ridiculous deep right now.
Everything on the Watts link is a bolt-on, including the large brackets that attach to the axle housing. It's really a very straight forward install. Just requires a lot of patience and fine tuning to install it on the car.
PS: I originally stated back a page that I had clayed the car again, applied Z2 (6 hours), Z5 (8 hours), applied a second coat of of Z5 (12 hours). I'm thinking about putting on another coat of Z5 tonight. The paint is just ridiculous deep right now.
Last edited by 96silverram; 09-07-2010 at 01:53 PM.
#77
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I wont' get a chance to test out the handling till this weekend. Just finishing up some small modifications and torque specs on the unit. I will have to modify the Corsa bracket slightly to raise the over axle pipe about a 1/4" to clear, but that won't be to difficult. Thanks on the polishing. It really makes the suspension pieces pop! I feel like this should be on a Porsche or Ferrari, not a F-body
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#78
TECH Senior Member
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Well I'm certainly not trying to compare my car to your setup. I've already agreed with you on your point about your opinion on suspension setup. So, I'm not sure what your trying to convince me of here
This is not an exercise to have a full on SCCA car. The suspension is already setup more towards Drag Racing. I just want to take what I have and make it perform better than it does under the current circumstances. I'm already happy with the current setup and I'm really doing this to play around with some items (as I already stated). I may eventually go to some KYB's, or Koni's (etc.), but that is a different day and project. The car is mostly a garage King most of the time, but I love playing around with all the cool parts we have available for the F-body's ![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
Ill be waiting to hear your results though, I plan to possibly get a watts link in the future, continue the build!
#79
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My bad, I interpreted what you were saying as more.
It's all good, I certainly took your comments into account and will probably be upgrading to the Koni's at some point. I fear that this car will always be in a constant state of flux because I like to try out different items all the time.
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#80
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Update (9-13-10):
Just took the car out for a little test romp and much to my amazement the car feels completely different, but in a good way. I have read a few different threads where people state they could immediately tell there was a difference in the car, but I questioned how true that could be without testing? Well, I was wrong. It is immediately noticeable just driving down the street. Maybe it's just me, but the rearend just feels more secure. I headed out to the cloverleaf close by to do some spirited driving around the interchange a few times at different speeds. It was very impressive to keep pushing the car in 3rd gear out of the bottom of each loop. The car seemed like I could just keep feeding it pedal input. The car use to have a fair amount of oversteer at the edge before doing the upgrade. After installing the Watts Link it's as if the car won't let me oversteer the rear. I actually was pushing the car fairly hard through the last loop of the cloverleaf and exited the corner on to the freeway at 6100 rpm's in 3rd; bang'd 4th gear, and got some scratch on the concrete
I must say, I'm just about ready to purchase a set of KYB's or Koni's and take the suspension to the next level
I'm going to recommend this product for two reasons: 1-it appears it really works, 2 - I think it looks really cool
Just took the car out for a little test romp and much to my amazement the car feels completely different, but in a good way. I have read a few different threads where people state they could immediately tell there was a difference in the car, but I questioned how true that could be without testing? Well, I was wrong. It is immediately noticeable just driving down the street. Maybe it's just me, but the rearend just feels more secure. I headed out to the cloverleaf close by to do some spirited driving around the interchange a few times at different speeds. It was very impressive to keep pushing the car in 3rd gear out of the bottom of each loop. The car seemed like I could just keep feeding it pedal input. The car use to have a fair amount of oversteer at the edge before doing the upgrade. After installing the Watts Link it's as if the car won't let me oversteer the rear. I actually was pushing the car fairly hard through the last loop of the cloverleaf and exited the corner on to the freeway at 6100 rpm's in 3rd; bang'd 4th gear, and got some scratch on the concrete
![Driving](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_driving3.gif)
![Angel](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_angel.gif)
![Secret2](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/secret.gif)