LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

wheel bearing install

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Old 04-01-2010, 06:17 PM
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Default wheel bearing install

i had a gta trans am and doing wheel bearings was easy. i now have a 1995 formula and i heard it would be hard to do the wheel bearings. is this true? or is it just like any other old car where you just pack em with grease and put em back in???
Old 04-01-2010, 06:36 PM
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4th gen F-Bodys have a wheel hub bolted to the spindle with four bolts. It contains the bearings, grease, seals and ABS ring. It's not serviced. If your front wheels need bearings, you replace the hubs as a unit. Best price on rockauto.com is $135.00.
Old 04-01-2010, 06:37 PM
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No the bearings are sealed its the front hub assembly
Old 04-02-2010, 08:32 AM
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Really i just changed the r Front on my car, got it at advanced auto for 70 bucks.
Old 04-02-2010, 08:35 AM
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Very easy job to do. No packing grease or preload needed.
Old 04-15-2016, 12:18 PM
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Bump

I'm getting some abnormal noises from the front end of my car I strongly suspect as a bad wheel bearing/hub assembly (noise increases with MPH and can feel a faint rubbing/grinding/vibration when I turn the steering wheel driving) I think it may be on the passenger side.

I've never replaced a wheel bearing myself, but would prefer to learn and do it myself to save some $ and time taking it to the dealership; two questions:

1. How do I diagnose the issue for sure? Would there be obvious play in the wheel hub (do I have to remove the front tires and try moving the hub assembly around or just jack up the front end and see if there's play moving the wheels/tires by hand?

2. Is it recommended to replace both of them at the same time or can I get away with just replacing the trouble maker?
Old 04-15-2016, 12:32 PM
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Find a parking lot (empty preferred) and start turning in circles.

One way will make more noise than the other if its just one bearing bad.

Otherwise, get each wheel up in teh air, grabbing it should not show side to side or up and down motion.
Old 04-15-2016, 01:56 PM
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Also if you have an infrared thermometer you can check the temp of the hubs. One with bad bearings will be much hotter.

Iirc replacement hubs aren't expensive and if the chassis has a decent amount of miles it's probably a good idea to swap them out
Old 04-17-2016, 07:12 PM
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Just as I suspected; passenger front bearing is DONE ha ha....it took literally a minute to diagnose thanks to my handy dandy Harbor freight "racing jack" I shook the tire/wheel around and it felt like the damn thing was going to fall off At least an inch of play back and forth with the wheel banging around making lots of noise. Guess I won't be driving it until this gets fixed; just as well as the caliper from on this side needs rebuilt apparently too, tons of brake dust on just this particular wheel (for over a year now, before the bearing took a dump) ; I suppose I should have had it rebuilt as a precaution as it's unknown mileage from a random LS1 car when I did the LS1 brake conversion.

One more question though....which one of the several brands of replacement hubs form Rockauto aren't a poorly made P.O.S.? I'm not shelling out the $220 for AC delco when the rest are in the $40-100 range:

WJB, OMNI 5, Dura International, Mevotech, Raybestos professional grade, Timkin, MOOG, SKF ?

Last edited by ahritchie; 04-17-2016 at 07:17 PM.
Old 04-17-2016, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ahritchie
Just as I suspected; passenger front bearing is DONE ha ha....it took literally a minute to diagnose thanks to my handy dandy Harbor freight "racing jack" I shook the tire/wheel around and it felt like the damn thing was going to fall off At least an inch of play back and forth with the wheel banging around making lots of noise. Guess I won't be driving it until this gets fixed; just as well as the caliper from on this side needs rebuilt apparently too, tons of brake dust on just this particular wheel (for over a year now, before the bearing took a dump) ; I suppose I should have had it rebuilt as a precaution as it's unknown mileage from a random LS1 car when I did the LS1 brake conversion.

One more question though....which one of the several brands of replacement hubs form Rockauto aren't a poorly made P.O.S.? I'm not shelling out the $220 for AC delco when the rest are in the $40-100 range:

WJB, OMNI 5, Dura International, Mevotech, Raybestos professional grade, Timkin, MOOG, SKF ?
Been using Timkin hubs on my car for about a year for DD/auto x, so far so good
Old 04-17-2016, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ahritchie
Just as I suspected; passenger front bearing is DONE ha ha....it took literally a minute to diagnose thanks to my handy dandy Harbor freight "racing jack" I shook the tire/wheel around and it felt like the damn thing was going to fall off At least an inch of play back and forth with the wheel banging around making lots of noise. Guess I won't be driving it until this gets fixed; just as well as the caliper from on this side needs rebuilt apparently too, tons of brake dust on just this particular wheel (for over a year now, before the bearing took a dump) ; I suppose I should have had it rebuilt as a precaution as it's unknown mileage from a random LS1 car when I did the LS1 brake conversion.

One more question though....which one of the several brands of replacement hubs form Rockauto aren't a poorly made P.O.S.? I'm not shelling out the $220 for AC delco when the rest are in the $40-100 range:

WJB, OMNI 5, Dura International, Mevotech, Raybestos professional grade, Timkin, MOOG, SKF ?
Timken and Moog.

Last edited by hrcslam; 04-17-2016 at 11:01 PM.
Old 04-17-2016, 07:56 PM
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Moog is one of the top suspension component manufacturers and timken is one of the top bearing manufacturers. Either one is an excellent choice and likely near oem quality if not the same.
Old 04-18-2016, 07:34 AM
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I have a Timken on my truck AFAIK and its lasted 80-90k so far.
Old 04-18-2016, 10:41 AM
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SKF ain't bad either...
Old 04-19-2016, 12:29 AM
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Default Timken

Originally Posted by ahritchie
Just as I suspected; passenger front bearing is DONE ha ha....it took literally a minute to diagnose thanks to my handy dandy Harbor freight "racing jack" I shook the tire/wheel around and it felt like the damn thing was going to fall off At least an inch of play back and forth with the wheel banging around making lots of noise. Guess I won't be driving it until this gets fixed; just as well as the caliper from on this side needs rebuilt apparently too, tons of brake dust on just this particular wheel (for over a year now, before the bearing took a dump) ; I suppose I should have had it rebuilt as a precaution as it's unknown mileage from a random LS1 car when I did the LS1 brake conversion.

One more question though....which one of the several brands of replacement hubs form Rockauto aren't a poorly made P.O.S.? I'm not shelling out the $220 for AC delco when the rest are in the $40-100 range:

WJB, OMNI 5, Dura International, Mevotech, Raybestos professional grade, Timkin, MOOG, SKF ?
I work for Timken and can vouch for the quality. Timken all the way.
Old 04-25-2016, 03:45 PM
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I just put a new Timken hub on today (autozone was actually cheaper than rockauto); it was actually much easier than I thought, only took 30 mins with hand tools, just 6 bolts total counting removing the caliper (did need a breaker bar) and me fumbling around with trying to get the loaded caliper back on the rotor....for a real mechanic with air tools it's a 15min easy job. The bad bearing was making grinding noises even turning it by hand. I might just replace the other one for the fun of it next time I do brake pads!



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