96LT1 A4 Nitrous/zex questions - Please help if youre knowledgable with this.
#1
96LT1 A4 Nitrous/zex questions - Please help if youre knowledgable with this.
I know to do a search. Ive been looking through stuff or a couple hours now. Im looking for some clear answers so I decided to start a thread. Ive also never worked on a LT1 before and have very little knowledge of them. Thanks
Doing some work to a friends car and he decided he wants a nitrous kit. Car is a 96Z auto with under 50k on it. Car has some bolt-ons. Headers, the rest of the exhaust looks stock. 3.73 gear. k&n cold air kit. he says it has a cam but it must be very mild because it seems stock to me. has a jet MAF. I can see a msd8231 coil on it. he has a hypertech programer new in the box. thats about all I see so far.
he wants a zex dry kit for it. I know there are other prefered nitrous kits to use...but this is what it is so thats that. the kit is ordered and on its way.
This is a 50yr old lawyer with no car knowledge. he decides he wants a nitrous kit. He will probably use it a few times and never use it again...but I still want to get this installed for him so its reliable and doesnt hurt the car. It will be set on the 75hp setting, never more. I will also be installing some MT drag radials on it.
So basically Im just looking for info of what is needed to make this work perfect. I ordered a msd window switch. what parameters should be set on that?
is the stock fuel pump ok for this?
does any timing need to be pulled for this?
he said he just had some $80 spark plugs put in it. not sure what they are. on a 75 shot am I worried about plugs? if so what should I put in there?
Im very knowledgable with nitrous when spraying a 500hp fogger...just never done a nitrous kit on a LT1. Im just looking for any tips that would be helpful to me in getting this done properly.
thanks very much for any help!!
Doing some work to a friends car and he decided he wants a nitrous kit. Car is a 96Z auto with under 50k on it. Car has some bolt-ons. Headers, the rest of the exhaust looks stock. 3.73 gear. k&n cold air kit. he says it has a cam but it must be very mild because it seems stock to me. has a jet MAF. I can see a msd8231 coil on it. he has a hypertech programer new in the box. thats about all I see so far.
he wants a zex dry kit for it. I know there are other prefered nitrous kits to use...but this is what it is so thats that. the kit is ordered and on its way.
This is a 50yr old lawyer with no car knowledge. he decides he wants a nitrous kit. He will probably use it a few times and never use it again...but I still want to get this installed for him so its reliable and doesnt hurt the car. It will be set on the 75hp setting, never more. I will also be installing some MT drag radials on it.
So basically Im just looking for info of what is needed to make this work perfect. I ordered a msd window switch. what parameters should be set on that?
is the stock fuel pump ok for this?
does any timing need to be pulled for this?
he said he just had some $80 spark plugs put in it. not sure what they are. on a 75 shot am I worried about plugs? if so what should I put in there?
Im very knowledgable with nitrous when spraying a 500hp fogger...just never done a nitrous kit on a LT1. Im just looking for any tips that would be helpful to me in getting this done properly.
thanks very much for any help!!
#3
TECH Addict
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Garden City, KS
Posts: 2,529
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stock pump MAY be alright. I was spraying a 150 shot on my stock pump and it wouldn't keep up so I had to replace it with a walbro unit. So it's hit and miss with this.
Window switch I would set at around 3200 and shut it off 200 rpms lower than your shift point. I've never liked spraying it between shifts just to try and help the tranny out a little.
If it has 80 dollar spark plugs in it I would take them out and throw them in the garbage. First off anyone dumb enough to spend that much on spark plugs is an idiot. 2nd, if they were that expensive they are probably multi double tipped platinum tipped uranium cored high hp plugs (insert sarcasm here) and will be devastating to the motor on nitrous. Get some good copper plugs 1-2 heat ranges colder than stock and gap them around .035.
I would pull a couple degrees of timing just to be safe.
Not to be a dick, but if you're building 500 hp fogger kits, why are you having trouble with a little 75hp kit? Same basic rules apply.
Window switch I would set at around 3200 and shut it off 200 rpms lower than your shift point. I've never liked spraying it between shifts just to try and help the tranny out a little.
If it has 80 dollar spark plugs in it I would take them out and throw them in the garbage. First off anyone dumb enough to spend that much on spark plugs is an idiot. 2nd, if they were that expensive they are probably multi double tipped platinum tipped uranium cored high hp plugs (insert sarcasm here) and will be devastating to the motor on nitrous. Get some good copper plugs 1-2 heat ranges colder than stock and gap them around .035.
I would pull a couple degrees of timing just to be safe.
Not to be a dick, but if you're building 500 hp fogger kits, why are you having trouble with a little 75hp kit? Same basic rules apply.
#4
So basically Im just looking for info of what is needed to make this work perfect. I ordered a msd window switch. what parameters should be set on that?
is the stock fuel pump ok for this?
does any timing need to be pulled for this?
he said he just had some $80 spark plugs put in it. not sure what they are. on a 75 shot am I worried about plugs? if so what should I put in there?
thanks very much for any help!!
Last edited by jasonisdn; 04-06-2010 at 05:17 PM.
#5
so if the kit comes on at lets say 3000 and then shuts off 200 before the shift...then do I have the option to keep it off till it draws the rpms down to a certain point? Or does it turn back on right when it drops 200rpms from the shift? i used one of these window switches a while ago. dont remember exactly how it works. just looking to see exactly what to do on it. Thanks!
the kit should come with a inline boost pump. i would not spray it below 3000 rpm. pull 2 degrees of timing. plugs, i would say one step colder than stock. then check them and make sure they look ok. a 125 shot on stock injectors had my injectors at 100% duty cycle. the 125 maxed them out at 120 some % or so the tuner said back then. 10+ years ago i think. edit: yeah make sure to listen to the other guy about the type of plug. i just assume everyone knows not to run platinum plugs with nitrous.
I thought it came with a pump also...but the salesman at summit said it didnt. I hope it does.
yeah i figured that much about the plugs. thats the first thing I thought of when he said he spent that much. just seeing if a 75shot was enough nitrous to worry about changing them or not. I will def change them. Do you have a part number you'd recommend?
Thanks again for the help guys!!
#6
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Naperville,IL
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stock pump will work with that and for a dry shot he will be fine with a 75 shot all day. I have done it hundreds of time with that same exact kit, power that car has. You will not need to retard timing or anything. But I recommend putting in TR6 ngk plugs. Other than that just install the kit and plugs, then have fun.
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Garden City, KS
Posts: 2,529
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A window switch will operate as long as it is in the preset RPM's. So if you have it set at 3500 and say 5800 then as long as you are in that rpm at WOT it will be active. If you are shifting at 6000 then as soon as you shift and it drops below 5800 it will activate again.
Trending Topics
#8
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
I assume the ZEX LTX dry kit works simliar to the NOS 5176 dry kit in that it boosts fuel pressure via the regulator to dump the extra fuel. I would maybe look into upgrading the fuel injectors as the stockers have been known to have some issues handling the increased fuel pressure. I ran SVO 30# injectors when I was running the NOS 5176 kit. And as mentioned, slightly colder plugs (NGK-TR6) and an inline fuel pump would be a good idea as well.
#9
you would need a aftermarket ignition box or a lap top with a program and cable to alter the timing. there is a free program that works well called Tuner Pro, you can google and find it. i cant remember my plug numbers off the top of my head. a good autolite plug will work just fine. advance will have the heart range in their computer for factory, one step colder should be fine. if that kit does not come with a inline pump, i would be weary of it. my car was lean until i had it tuned on that zex kit. edit: i was on the 125 shot, i think. hell it was maxed out lol
#10
On The Tree
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For spark plugs NGK TR6's are junk the electrodes are not very forgiving. I've had much better luck with Autolite 104's gapped .035. pull 2 degrees of timing (you do this with a programmer) not sure if the hypertech can do this.
Safety devices would be fuel pressure safety switch, window switch as mentioned before set at 3k and 200 rpms below shift points. and a WOT switch.
Safety devices would be fuel pressure safety switch, window switch as mentioned before set at 3k and 200 rpms below shift points. and a WOT switch.
#13
there are a few requirements for LT1 owners (or people that work on them)
1. If you don't like giving blood to the car gods , you need not apply
2. If you don't have patience, you need not apply
3. If you aren't already a little crazy, you will be before long.
4. If you like having money in your wallet , you need not apply.
5. If you want to meet people that aren't quite stable, stay on the LT1 forums (lol)
6. If you want people to underestimate your car, a LT1 is perfect.
7. Finally if you like working in tight spaces with an engine half way under your dash (i am willing to bet the designer of that feature built vans before hand) welcome to the beginning of insanity. Have a nice day
1. If you don't like giving blood to the car gods , you need not apply
2. If you don't have patience, you need not apply
3. If you aren't already a little crazy, you will be before long.
4. If you like having money in your wallet , you need not apply.
5. If you want to meet people that aren't quite stable, stay on the LT1 forums (lol)
6. If you want people to underestimate your car, a LT1 is perfect.
7. Finally if you like working in tight spaces with an engine half way under your dash (i am willing to bet the designer of that feature built vans before hand) welcome to the beginning of insanity. Have a nice day
#15
there are a few requirements for LT1 owners (or people that work on them)
1. If you don't like giving blood to the car gods , you need not apply
2. If you don't have patience, you need not apply
3. If you aren't already a little crazy, you will be before long.
4. If you like having money in your wallet , you need not apply.
5. If you want to meet people that aren't quite stable, stay on the LT1 forums (lol)
6. If you want people to underestimate your car, a LT1 is perfect.
7. Finally if you like working in tight spaces with an engine half way under your dash (i am willing to bet the designer of that feature built vans before hand) welcome to the beginning of insanity. Have a nice day
1. If you don't like giving blood to the car gods , you need not apply
2. If you don't have patience, you need not apply
3. If you aren't already a little crazy, you will be before long.
4. If you like having money in your wallet , you need not apply.
5. If you want to meet people that aren't quite stable, stay on the LT1 forums (lol)
6. If you want people to underestimate your car, a LT1 is perfect.
7. Finally if you like working in tight spaces with an engine half way under your dash (i am willing to bet the designer of that feature built vans before hand) welcome to the beginning of insanity. Have a nice day
#16
You would be correct about lt1 fbodys...always great to work on especially getting to the back sparkplugs and header bolts against the firewall. If you haven't though of this already, stubby gear wrenches are awesome.
#17
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hopkinsville, KY
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
there are a few requirements for LT1 owners (or people that work on them)
1. If you don't like giving blood to the car gods , you need not apply
2. If you don't have patience, you need not apply
3. If you aren't already a little crazy, you will be before long.
4. If you like having money in your wallet , you need not apply.
5. If you want to meet people that aren't quite stable, stay on the LT1 forums (lol)
6. If you want people to underestimate your car, a LT1 is perfect.
7. Finally if you like working in tight spaces with an engine half way under your dash (i am willing to bet the designer of that feature built vans before hand) welcome to the beginning of insanity. Have a nice day
1. If you don't like giving blood to the car gods , you need not apply
2. If you don't have patience, you need not apply
3. If you aren't already a little crazy, you will be before long.
4. If you like having money in your wallet , you need not apply.
5. If you want to meet people that aren't quite stable, stay on the LT1 forums (lol)
6. If you want people to underestimate your car, a LT1 is perfect.
7. Finally if you like working in tight spaces with an engine half way under your dash (i am willing to bet the designer of that feature built vans before hand) welcome to the beginning of insanity. Have a nice day
8. After 10 minutes working in the engine compartment, you will want to kick the GM engineering/accounting department in the nuts. Twice!
#18
got the headers off and doing the plugs. the current plugs have a lot of oil on them. It seems like there is oil leaking from everywhere underneath this car. not a lot but everything is wet and cant really see where its coming from. the rear main seal "looks" dry...hard to tell though. should I recommend to this guy to not put a nitrous kit on it? If it has a lot of blowby Id think its gonna make oil leaks worse by spraying it. omg this car is a nighmare. wish I never took on this project
Last edited by slow3hoe2; 04-11-2010 at 07:03 PM.
#20
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: DSM
Posts: 1,433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My car was a mess too before my buddy worked on it.
Turned out I was leaking a whole bunch of oil because at one point in time they had the oil pan and timing cover off and reused the shitty gaskets. Didn't help that 1 out of the 4 bolts on the oil pan was torqued to spec either...
Now she doesn't drip a drop
Turned out I was leaking a whole bunch of oil because at one point in time they had the oil pan and timing cover off and reused the shitty gaskets. Didn't help that 1 out of the 4 bolts on the oil pan was torqued to spec either...
Now she doesn't drip a drop