spcearle

iTrader: (9)

ok i have a 96 z w/a 383......for he longest time this car ran super cool not even ever reaching the second line on my gauge but also had zero heat....about a week ago outta no where she started getting kick *** heat...and now its overheating...i replaced the thermostat with a new 160 which was in it also b4....then the ewp seemed to be getting mad hot to the touch and loud so i replaced it with a new hd unit....air is burped out of it and i'm still running hotter then normally was and my heat seams to be getting even hotter....any ideas

jaycenk

iTrader: (1)

clogs. The heater core was cloged and now it has released that clog into the cooling system. Time to take the cooling system apart and start flushing everything. The steam pipe could be cloged along with the banjo bolts that hold it in. They have very small holes for water and steam to pass through. On my 97 both banjo's and the steam pipe tube were cloged with 95k miles on it.
I would do this. First pull the steam pipe, temp sensor out of the head, and the plug on the passenger head and the thermostat housing and try running water from a hose through the top of the thermo housing and try and flush the top of the heads out. then remove the hose from the bottom of the water pump and back flush water from the block up through the heads. If that clog made it into the heads and is big enough it is going to block the holes in the head gasket from allowing water to flow down into the block and back to the radiator.
Next I would flush the heater core with the lines OFF the water pump. Then I would flush out the radiator with it's hoses all disconected and then put it all back together and hope thats it. Check those banjo's and steam pipe real good before putting them back on.

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

^^X2

AND, be careful with the pressure on the (garden) hose you use to flush it- remember the cooling system is only supposed to see 16-18 lbs. of internal pressure. Resist the temptation to BLAST it out- steady moderate flow is where it's at. And be careful with those banjo bolts like Jaycen said. You can replace the pipe and bolts with stuff from Lowes/Home Depot if you need to. Lots of people have a really hard time getting bite on the bolts and tear them up getting them off. I was one, and was lucky to find some in stock locally, cheap.

spcearle

iTrader: (9)

well pulled the steam pipe and it was fine...always had codes but i went to get scanned today...no bueno...both my o2 sensors are setting codes...135/135...which sucks cause they are about 4000 miles old ac's.....so i pulled them and cleaned them up some...will see with those....i have a 1642 code...not sure on that one...a 117 code which seems like it might be related which involves the ect...not sure if that could be causing my prob...and a 200 code related to fuel which has me bugged to.......so any other advice would be fantastic.......getting ready to bring to a shop to do a coolant flush since unfortunately i can do that on my own on the side of the street with no hose...but the coolant seems absolutely clean and isnt even that old..maybe like 8000 miles since i originally put in my ewp and engine and got rid of the orange koolaid for the better lime...some help please...the only other thing that fears me is maybe head gaskets but absolutely no moisture in my exhaust or my oil

fleetmgr

Did you check the radiator for oil?

spcearle

iTrader: (9)

no oil....tomorrow im gonna replace the sensor on th wp and see where that gets me since it is throwing a code related to that and maybe head to pepboys and have the system flushed

spcearle

iTrader: (9)

ok well today i changed out my ect and played around with a few other lil c
things on the car....first i figured i need them anyways so i pulled the o2's out and tried cleaning them up a lil to see if it made any diff....pulled all my pluds and they all are pretty carboned and black which seems normal at least for my engine.....checked all my injectors wiring and seemed fine....here is one interesting thing i found though which doesnt have to do with the coolant but the other codes maybe.....when i hooked the battery back up my fuel press gauge was reading about 32psi and i was blowin moisture out my tail pipe which it has never done for a cpl seconds.....bleed system for a while and drove it....as for this thread it is still heating up on me.....my fp went back up about 43.....ran smooth but felt like i was trying to tow a house...just doesnt feel ballzy like she used to.....threw a code right off the bat but need to getter scanned to see if its for my crank sensor or a return of previous codes or another new one......tomorrow i bring it in for a flush to see if that helps...still looking for new fans which i havent had since i built the motor since it never ran hot but now i guess i need em...any other insight on any of this would be great

jaycenk

iTrader: (1)

You need to get a handle on that fuel pressure. Did you check it with the vacume line conected or not? It should not change unless the vacum changes. 43 to 45 is where it should be with vac line off. mid to high 30's with the vac line on but it should not jump that much when you messure it with the same amount of vacume in the intake. If the fuel pressure is light, then your heat condition could come from the lean condition the lighter fuel pressure would create. This will also damage the internals. With the hotter cylider temps you could experiance detonation which could be the lagging or draging a house you feel due to the timming the PCM would pull out because of the knock sesor seeing this. On the other hand your plugs could look clean as hell with the ground strap showing the heat range way down on the ground strap near the threads. Look at those plugs again, just because there is some carbon on them may not mean that you are rich but actually burning the carbon loose from the head and piston top. If the piston top is too hot the fuel mixture comming in on the intake stroke can cause a carbor layer to form. let us know what codes you find.

spcearle

iTrader: (9)

well today i guess i won the stupid *** award and hopefully didnt destroy my car....so i went to get the coolant flushed and didnt want a shop to just do a drop and fill on my so i figured pepboy has the equip. ment so hat the hay went there since its not like i was filled with a lot of options here..well that was my mistake i guess....first thats exactly what they did was try to do a drop and fill...caught them with that...then when i was inside the mechanic pulled the car out side/diconnected the main hose goin into the waterpump and started hosing out the system...mine you the car was running the whole time so mind you all coolant drained from block and radiator drain open he drove the car and had it running for about 20min flooding my engine bay with water but not the engine....now my car sits at pepboys waiting for their "master tech" to get in to look at it cause instead of it overheating in half an hour of driving around it heats up into the red in about 5 mins.....i'm really hating on myself now cause i thought i was doin the right thing by having it flushed and eliminating issues and now i have a gut feeling i'm really screwed and my car is fucked

JB_97ws6TA

iTrader: (6)

aahhh pepboys, I wouldn't let them rotate the tires on my wife's car!! A guy I work with brought his jaguar in there for there brake inspection deal, long story short they decided to turn his rotors. After they f'ed that up they had to replace pretty much everything on all 4 corners and my buddy was charged 1600. Ouch, moral of the story, don't let pep boys service ANYTHING

spcearle

iTrader: (9)

well keeps getting worse for me...now 2 days no car....waiting till tommorow to speek with manager on car....only way it can stay cool now is with fan wired on at all times and it still gets half way up......heating up half way in less then 3 or so minutes....went thru a half tank of gas since its been at the shop so prob a hour or so of run time....and shes blowin moisture and a lil smoke out the exhaust....i dont understand how a car that went from a getting hot prob which previously only ran just under or over the first notch after 160 with no fans ever needing to come on to now this point...even their head mechanic strongly thinks i'm screwed now..that is b4 b4 telling me i should have never brought it here

jaycenk

iTrader: (1)

I'd take the thermostat out and see if it makes a difference.

spcearle

iTrader: (9)

well got the car back last night...been driving it around and it seems ok..still gets a lil warmer then it did so i wired back in my fan switch so i can turn the fans on manually which it never needed b4 and to me it seems like a bandaid to the prob....as for fp readjusted it with the vacuum off to about 43-5 psi.....i noticed it really doesnt make any difference in er with the line connected or not but thenagain it might also be my gauge is no longer accurate which used to be right on the money with a mechanical but elctric stuff does fail after time so i'll track down a mechanical to comfirm....my pressure stays right around the 43 area with maybe a 1 or 2 pound diff across the throttle.....monday i'll bring er to a real shop around the cxorner and have them drain and flush out everything right to see if that helps.....one thing i did notice though was at the c100 connector there were 2 wires not connected heading towards the front half of the harness a brown and light blue and at the pcm side the 2 browns may be switched in the wrong spots from when i did the wire mod but it makes no diff with how it runs with everything hooked up