Which heads and cam
I want to know a few things
Here is what I want. I want to put a medium sized somewhat lobey cam so I can make myself happy by hearing my car when I start it, and sit at a light. I want to put something like a 224/230 cam or gm847.. I think they are the same. Is that too much, and I want to have the maximum ported heads and still have descent gas mileage and run low 12's and maybe 11's with a 2800 stall. I have a 93 transam with an A4, and 3.23 gears, I dont want to change the gears so I can still go on trips. I might want to spray one day, but that is not important right now.
1. If I am going to a local machine shop, what do I tell them I want done with my heads
2. What valves and what size, and angle..... I really dont know much about this part...
3. I most likely will go with pcmforless, or madz28 programing afterwards.
4. I will be sticking with stock torque converter for a while so I would want to know what will happen driving this around town
5. I will be doing headers too at the same time, soooooo what kind of header.. I was thinking jethot longtubes.
6. LAST QUESTION I PROMISE... What do you think my times will be with what you describe?
Thanks a million... whoever replies to this seriously has a chance to shape the car that I drive for the next few years.... Thanks again. And I will be doing this within the next 2 months.
Tim
This means you're getting not just the bowls ported and smoothed but the runners and the short turn on the intake side.
For a mild cam, I would suggest a CC304 or CC305 both are mild and streetable cams that require no extra programming, and both have a power range from about 1800-5800 (I have run both of these cams.)
on the headers, Jet Hot's are excelent, though a little pricey. Hookers are also nice and can be coated cheaply.
With all of this, and stock gears you're probably looking at 12.0-11.6 depending on how well you drive it, and of course on what tires
remember those are aluminum heads and you are not leaving too much room for the valve seats. worst case scenario....you could send a valve right through the valve seat and **** up all kinds of ****.
my recommendation just go to a good machine shop with a good rep. and tell them what you want and let them tell you what would be best.
I agree on the valve size also. You really dont need that big of a valve size on a heads and cam motor. I've seen a 396 with LT1 ported heads with 2.00/1.56 valves make 440 rwhp. Going with the big valves they will have to cut the heads for bigger valves seats. The 2.00/1.56 valves will fit in a stock size seat, so that will save you a little cash in machine work. Basically tell them that you would like the heads ported and you would like to know what they charge for the porting. Different shops will charge different amounts for different port jobs. For the cam you are looking at you will prolly need them heads to flow about 260 or so @ .600 (which is good, and they can get them to flow that with the smaller valves). And just tell them that you want a good 3 angle valve job. Also let them know exactly what the cam specs are once you have one picked out so that they can get you some valve springs to match the cam.
You can go with a bigger cam, have great drivability and still get goood gas milage. I have a 355 with 12.4 to 1 compression, LT1 ported heads w/ 2.00/1.56 valves (flowed 276/199 @ .600) and the CC306 cam and my car gets about 20 mpg on the highway. If you still would like a smaller cam I think the 230/236 cam you workout pretty good. It has a deacent lope to it and makes pretty good power. But there are several off the shelf cams to choose from. Any one of which you can make good power with and still get the driveability. I would pick a cam once the heads are ported and you know the flow numbers. It is a waste of a extra cam size to get a cam bigger than what the heads can flow.
As far as headders go, there is no substitute for Longtubes. The Hookers are proven. The Jethots are a good header but I have heard and seen fitment issues with them (this was when they first came out, they may have worked that out by now). But definately longtubes.
I would not put a cam in that car without a stall convertor. It will run like crap. You can tune it to run a little better but you WILL NOT like it. I would get a stall and do it all at once or do the stall and then the cam.
All in all the potential power the car can make with an off the shelf cam will really depend on 2 things, how well the heads flow and perform and how well the car is tuned. Chris Bennight has a 96 m6 z28 that had lt4 ported heads and a CC306 cam. He made 417 rwhp 389 rwtq and ran a 11.3x @ 121. that doesn't mean that everyone that gets that same setup will run that or get close. But if you heads turn out to flow in the 260 range and you get the 230/236 cam with longtube headers and say a 3200 stall, potentially you could have a high 11 sec car (if you car isn't a fat pig
) Scott
If you are staying with stock gears and stall (BIG MISTAKES), make sure to get a cam which makes good low rpm power and doesnt like to rev.
This cam has lots of low-end and pulls hard up to 6000 (stock heads)
I would not go bigger then the 224/230 if you're concerned with emissions and driveablility.
Definitely go with PCM4LESS, my custom chip from them is awesome
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Tim
That's a pretty big cam in comparison to what you stated that you would like to have. It will work fine with a 3400 stall or so and some good tuning. I'm not sure if it will pass emmissions though (if that's a concern for you). I still think the best thing for you to do is go ahead and get the heads ported, have the machine shop flow them and then select a cam based on the flow numbers. If you are planning on driving this car with this setup for a few years, you might as well get a cam to match the heads now so you don't have to change cams later on down the road.

