Stock Shortblock Build
Stock Shortblock Build Okay, after trashing my AI383 setup I am ready to start my new build. I decided on switching to a TH350 w/3500 stall instead of running the the T56 this time so that means I have one forsale but that's not the point. My real question is, what can I do to strengthen the stock bottom end? I see vtec running 9.40's on his 135000 mile shortblock with new rings and bearings but is there more strength to be had with better balancing and better rod bolts? If I don't bust into the 10's on motor which I am pretty sure 11.20-11.40's is as fast as I'll see. I want to spray my way there and I don't want to be fearful of the hit. I don't see me spraying more than a 150 shot, more than likely a 100. Some insight is appreciated and if you were wondering of the setup here it is.
70,000 Mile Stock Short Block
AI 200cc Heads
AI Custom Cam
Lingenfelter Ported Intake
58mm TB
TH350/3500 Stall
3.73 Rear Gear
28" Tires
3400 Raceweight
NX Kit ADJ. 250/ which it will never see. LOL.
70,000 Mile Stock Short Block
AI 200cc Heads
AI Custom Cam
Lingenfelter Ported Intake
58mm TB
TH350/3500 Stall
3.73 Rear Gear
28" Tires
3400 Raceweight
NX Kit ADJ. 250/ which it will never see. LOL.
What parts to use? I have decided to add rod bolts and have it balanced. I looked up some rod bolts on summit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-134-6005/. Do you think these will work fine?
What kind of rings and bearings should I run? I plan on spraying it so that is going to be something to think about. Also, which brand bearings are best? The last time I built a motor I ran clevite bearings and the total seal rings that come in the Speed Pro forged pistons and ring set. I would really like some input on this if anyone knows what is commonly used on a performance/stock rebuild. PN's would be great.
-Thanks
What kind of rings and bearings should I run? I plan on spraying it so that is going to be something to think about. Also, which brand bearings are best? The last time I built a motor I ran clevite bearings and the total seal rings that come in the Speed Pro forged pistons and ring set. I would really like some input on this if anyone knows what is commonly used on a performance/stock rebuild. PN's would be great.
-Thanks
balance it and the ARP bolts will help. If you could get ARP main studs it would be nice but that your going to need more work done to the block.
Is everything taken apart? how much money can you toss into this?
I'm sure you know the sky's the limit but i would watch the FS section here and a few other places. If you can find some killer deals it may make sense to go ahead and spend a little more coin.
Is everything taken apart? how much money can you toss into this?
I'm sure you know the sky's the limit but i would watch the FS section here and a few other places. If you can find some killer deals it may make sense to go ahead and spend a little more coin.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 529
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you could use main studs. just check the main bores before final assembly with the studs torqued..
i've replaced main bolts with main studs on 2 engines, people say not to do it, but i think its more the machine shop owners saying not to do it so they can charge you for a linebore.
i've replaced main bolts with main studs on 2 engines, people say not to do it, but i think its more the machine shop owners saying not to do it so they can charge you for a linebore.
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balance it and the ARP bolts will help. If you could get ARP main studs it would be nice but that your going to need more work done to the block.
Is everything taken apart? how much money can you toss into this?
I'm sure you know the sky's the limit but i would watch the FS section here and a few other places. If you can find some killer deals it may make sense to go ahead and spend a little more coin.
Is everything taken apart? how much money can you toss into this?
I'm sure you know the sky's the limit but i would watch the FS section here and a few other places. If you can find some killer deals it may make sense to go ahead and spend a little more coin.
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I alway balance an engine. Above ~6000 the forces are non linear and each hundred RPM adds alot of force. Can you live without balancing? Yes, but the forces are working against your setup and longevity will suffer.
For longevity I use studs top and bottom they have gotten expensive, but they are a bit stronger than bolts. I am not sure what you 'thrashed' in your last motor so not sure what you need. Forged pistons, balanced and studs is a stout foundation and of course ALWAYS new rod bolts I use arp simply because they have been round along time.
Especially going 11.2 NA at 3400 lbs that comes out to 480 RWHP. 9.4 takes 810 RWHP so to get there will definately take a power adder. Decide where you want to go then see if you can afford it or are willing to spend the money. I see many half *** it, then they end up destroying the motor, not reaching their goal, and then they are car poor.
It is easy to over spend remember though it also takes $$ to maintain the car. I make alot more than most on here, but I probably have the lowest dollar budget especially relative to what I make. This is a hobby and it needs to stay in perspective.
NEVER borrow money to hotrod a car that is a sign you are over the edge IMO.
Good luck
PS 10.9 requires 518RWHP at 3400
For longevity I use studs top and bottom they have gotten expensive, but they are a bit stronger than bolts. I am not sure what you 'thrashed' in your last motor so not sure what you need. Forged pistons, balanced and studs is a stout foundation and of course ALWAYS new rod bolts I use arp simply because they have been round along time.
Especially going 11.2 NA at 3400 lbs that comes out to 480 RWHP. 9.4 takes 810 RWHP so to get there will definately take a power adder. Decide where you want to go then see if you can afford it or are willing to spend the money. I see many half *** it, then they end up destroying the motor, not reaching their goal, and then they are car poor.
It is easy to over spend remember though it also takes $$ to maintain the car. I make alot more than most on here, but I probably have the lowest dollar budget especially relative to what I make. This is a hobby and it needs to stay in perspective.
NEVER borrow money to hotrod a car that is a sign you are over the edge IMO.
Good luck
PS 10.9 requires 518RWHP at 3400
I alway balance an engine. Above ~6000 the forces are non linear and each hundred RPM adds alot of force. Can you live without balancing? Yes, but the forces are working against your setup and longevity will suffer.
For longevity I use studs top and bottom they have gotten expensive, but they are a bit stronger than bolts. I am not sure what you 'thrashed' in your last motor so not sure what you need. Forged pistons, balanced and studs is a stout foundation and of course ALWAYS new rod bolts I use arp simply because they have been round along time.
Especially going 11.2 NA at 3400 lbs that comes out to 480 RWHP. 9.4 takes 810 RWHP so to get there will definately take a power adder. Decide where you want to go then see if you can afford it or are willing to spend the money. I see many half *** it, then they end up destroying the motor, not reaching their goal, and then they are car poor.
It is easy to over spend remember though it also takes $$ to maintain the car. I make alot more than most on here, but I probably have the lowest dollar budget especially relative to what I make. This is a hobby and it needs to stay in perspective.
NEVER borrow money to hotrod a car that is a sign you are over the edge IMO.
Good luck
PS 10.9 requires 518RWHP at 3400
For longevity I use studs top and bottom they have gotten expensive, but they are a bit stronger than bolts. I am not sure what you 'thrashed' in your last motor so not sure what you need. Forged pistons, balanced and studs is a stout foundation and of course ALWAYS new rod bolts I use arp simply because they have been round along time.
Especially going 11.2 NA at 3400 lbs that comes out to 480 RWHP. 9.4 takes 810 RWHP so to get there will definately take a power adder. Decide where you want to go then see if you can afford it or are willing to spend the money. I see many half *** it, then they end up destroying the motor, not reaching their goal, and then they are car poor.
It is easy to over spend remember though it also takes $$ to maintain the car. I make alot more than most on here, but I probably have the lowest dollar budget especially relative to what I make. This is a hobby and it needs to stay in perspective.
NEVER borrow money to hotrod a car that is a sign you are over the edge IMO.
Good luck
PS 10.9 requires 518RWHP at 3400
lol. You dont need 500+ HP to hit 10s. Look at Larry's car 10.6s at 460 rwhp. A guy in the Drag tech section was also trying to tell me it would take 450rwhp NA plus a 150 shot to hit 10s. lol
I work at houston engine and balance and just finished building up my stock shortblock for mildly ported heads and a comp 280xfi and will probably be shiftin either 6600 or 6800(haven't dynoed it yet) not spraying anytime soon but will eventually spray a 100shot to see easy 10s.I had my rods, rod bolts, rings and valvesprings cryoed, its process that hardens the metal. Rods are weak so doing this and arp rod bolts in addition will help a lot. Cryoing the rings makes them seal better for increased power. Personally if you wanna spray it pretty often I would cryo the pistons also and if you want even better rings seal have the pistons gas ported. Total seal rings are what I am running and I just went with a standard clevite bearing set.
