first time at track not to impressed
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Manually shifting an automatic will do nothing but hurt your times. . Something is wrong mechanically with your car. Even without an optimized setup to go along with your cam you SHOULD NOT be trapping 100mph.
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yeah i had the tune after i did the heads and intake. The only thing its was tuned for is the 1.6rr i put on after i got the tune. I think the track is having the street night sometime soon so maybe ill take it and see if i can improve.
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I still wouldn't be racing that car or going WOT on it w/o checking the AFR, fuel pressure, or at the bare min. checking the plugs.
I foresee another f-body ending up in the graveyard. Our #'s are shrinking due to uneducated people ******* their cars.
I foresee another f-body ending up in the graveyard. Our #'s are shrinking due to uneducated people ******* their cars.
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ok ill just have to find a way to get the afr checked and check the fuel pressure. That had been the only time i ever really ran the car hard since i bought it bone stock in 05
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something is very wrong here more than just your mods or a tune my car bone stock first time out went 14.01 at 99.8 and the second run went 13.9 at like 101 if im remembering rite its been a while. with a cam and heads and intake ported should be trapping faster than my full bolton car i have trapped around a 105 with my opti going bad i would for sure check air fuel and get it scanned or something. is it throwing any codes?
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Where do you people get off thinking that his car, trapping 99-100 mph, only picking up 19mph in the back half, as it sits now, isn't an abnormal issue. All the converter and gear in the world isn't going to matter if the car's down on power.
As its been stated before, ET doesn't mean jack, but that MPH is telling you something - your not making the power you should be.
As its been stated before, ET doesn't mean jack, but that MPH is telling you something - your not making the power you should be.
Trap speed isnt everything either, ie many bolton/cam only cars trap 105-110 and 109-116, but ET deep in the 11's and some cases 10's.
The car with a good converter, gears, LT's and DR's should go 11.5s easy.
My car makes less than 300whp, and traps 106, yet ETs in the low 12's. How does that work?
#73
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Ill help you out..
First, the stock converter needs to go. For your setup Id look at anything from a 3600-4000 stall to make your good gains.
Next, swap to 3.73+ gear, this helps to get in your powerband quicker and stay there.
A set of LT's will make a big difference as well, the shorties are killing your midrange.
Finally, get a set of DRs to cut that 60".
With the new stall, gears LT's and tires, you should be in the mid-high 11's easy, barring some abnormal issue.
First, the stock converter needs to go. For your setup Id look at anything from a 3600-4000 stall to make your good gains.
Next, swap to 3.73+ gear, this helps to get in your powerband quicker and stay there.
A set of LT's will make a big difference as well, the shorties are killing your midrange.
Finally, get a set of DRs to cut that 60".
With the new stall, gears LT's and tires, you should be in the mid-high 11's easy, barring some abnormal issue.
Where do you people get off thinking that his car, trapping 99-100 mph, only picking up 19mph in the back half, as it sits now, isn't an abnormal issue. All the converter and gear in the world isn't going to matter if the car's down on power.
As its been stated before, ET doesn't mean jack, but that MPH is telling you something - your not making the power you should be.
As its been stated before, ET doesn't mean jack, but that MPH is telling you something - your not making the power you should be.
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No matter how you slice it, he has a H/C LT1, hundreds of these exist we know what they SHOULD run like, and 100mph in the 1/4 is totally wrong.
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The only code its throwing is a high MAP sensor. Its not setting the SES light (not sure if i would). And i was thinking that a mail order tune isnt the best thing for a set up like mine which is why i want to get it dyno tuned and all that. I think the headers are restricting it alot to. I dont know if any of you have had them or seen them but where the tube welds to the flange is very small due to welds inside the tube so the exhaust has to flow by the welds that clogg the header tubes.
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The only code its throwing is a high MAP sensor. Its not setting the SES light (not sure if i would). And i was thinking that a mail order tune isnt the best thing for a set up like mine which is why i want to get it dyno tuned and all that. I think the headers are restricting it alot to. I dont know if any of you have had them or seen them but where the tube welds to the flange is very small due to welds inside the tube so the exhaust has to flow by the welds that clogg the header tubes.
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Actually, the converter is a huge problem in this case. The car isnt in the powerband at all with a stock converter until it shifts at 6k.
Trap speed isnt everything either, ie many bolton/cam only cars trap 105-110 and 109-116, but ET deep in the 11's and some cases 10's.
The car with a good converter, gears, LT's and DR's should go 11.5s easy.
My car makes less than 300whp, and traps 106, yet ETs in the low 12's. How does that work?
Trap speed isnt everything either, ie many bolton/cam only cars trap 105-110 and 109-116, but ET deep in the 11's and some cases 10's.
The car with a good converter, gears, LT's and DR's should go 11.5s easy.
My car makes less than 300whp, and traps 106, yet ETs in the low 12's. How does that work?
Now, in the OP's case, I agree with your statement:
... but only if you add in properly tune with proper shift points, and running 100% with no issues. This car should be trapping 112+ with converter/gears and long tubes and the mods the OP has. Its too much of a stretch to say that adding those mods to his current setup would find 12mph. Which leads us back to the original point, many many posts and more than a few pages ago, which is somethings is not right with the car.
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something is wrong with the car, YES it needs a stall and lt's but that is beside the fact that something is not right with the car (IT IS TRAPING A 100 MPH) not only that its only traping 75 mph in the 1/8 i bet that bitch isnt making 260 hp. im looking at a time slip right now of where i raced a stock 2002 mustang and it says that thing was traping 75 mph.(so are yall telling me that a camed and ported heads lt1 should trap the same as stock stang. i dont think so) so are yall still going to try and tell this guy that its the fact that he doesnt have a stall is why he is traping so bad. guess what i DIDNT have a stall eather in my bolt on car and i was traping 83mph!!! to the op im not trying to bash your times trust me once you get every thing worked out it will be stout. but the first thing you should do before waisting money on lt and a stall and gears is get that thing on a dyno and make sure everything is ok with the moter.then after that there is no reasion not to put stall gears and lt's on it.
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No not yet. I did install my cutout a couple days ago and might have found a set of hooker long tubes. I also changed the fuel filter and it definatly needed changing(Just tripped 100k miles). Check the gap on the plugs and they were .050. So im slowly getting the parts i want so i can get rid of the more restriced parts. Friday night i might be going to the track since i think i can launch it better/harder. I know some of yall might not agree to take it and race it without checking air/fuel and all that but i think it was more less a driver problem. Not launching it hard as it could. And if i cant improve then than ill keep it in the garage untill i get it straight. And i have my buddys slicks on it to see how they would fit so ill try and run them at that track if he lets me. O and i did find the tune sheet from madz and the full throttle shift points were set 500.