Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

On the other hand at least if you build the bottom end bullet proof you can always build the top end up later and not worry about spun bearings and the like.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

For a hot street car, a good topend with all the supporting mods are all you need.

Refresh the block and throw some ARP rod bolts on it and go with an LE or AI matched topend and you will be 400+rwhp in a totally reliable, streetable car. Good for 11s with supporting mods...plenty fast enough for a car that will admittedly see very little track time .

Like roxy said though, if you think you might want more later, building the bottom end strong wont hurt, and will open the options up a ton down the road...but will be significantly more expensive.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

well the nice thing about more cubes is for a cruiser car like you want to build is it will be more street friendly, require less rpm, stall, gear, etc than an equally powered smaller cube motor

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

If I were you?

Bore it .030
Forged pistons
Balance
Arp rod, main and head bolts
square deck it
New rings,rods,mains and oil pump

Topend of your choice.

Go have fun

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

For a stock stroke/heads/cam/N/A type build then rods would not be necessary. LT1 rods are some of the strongest you can buy before going forged. I'd suggest a reconditioned stock crank, rods, ARP rod bolts, hyper-u pistons (forged aren't really necessary if you are staying N/A).

dangalla

this is very good information right here, and pretty much my exact build - except i added scat i beams because i bent a rod

for this power level it is not worth the extra money to stroke it, imo at least. what is a typical gain over stock cubes - 15 to 20 peak and a bit more under the curve. and the ability to not have to purchase a new crank and rods will save you a ton of money, the money would be better spent on high quality top end components, which is where your power comes from. a good set of ported stock heads by AI or LE will be more than enough for a nasty street car

once you build a motor once its not very difficult to do it again (unless your wallet is doing the work), so if you want to pull it in a few years and build a fully forged stroker later you will already have the top end to handle it

OVA1

iTrader: (12)

OP...

Man, I'd ditch the shorties... If the engine is getting tired, tear it down and rebuild/refresh... good 3 or 5 angle valve job, a good set of Long Tubes, Cam/Heads... and the a Strange S60 Dana Rear-end with a nice set of 4.10s... that's seven grand, right there. Add the forged internals and that's another 2500...

The ten- bolt is not going to handle 500 rwhp... PERIOD. It's not even debatable... despite the near certainty that someone will feel compelled to debate it.

I'm running an A4 and well south of 500 N/A-hp and rebuilt her 10-bolt twice; the last go around with an Eaton Locker.

So there's absolutely NO POINT in even THINKIN' about tearing into the engine, adding all that torque, when you're GOING TO detonate the diff' almost immediately.

The guys are exactly right... except most have under-estimated the costs; my experience puts the costs for what you're looking to do at around $12k...

If you've got the scratch, great... drive it up to your builder of choice and tstroke a check...

But if you're doing it yourself 5 grand at a time... start with the R&R, Headers... Rear-end... build the foundation before ya start decoratin'...

You'll have a blast...

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Horsepower isn't the sole factor that destroys 10-bolts - it's traction.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

This is true, but I still wouldn't trust a 10 bolt to a 450 rwhp m6 car, even if it's only on the street and only on street tires.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

well shock mostly but essentially the same

WS Sick

I wouldnt trust a 10 bolt in a stock 6 speed car, but its amazing how long they last in autos...lol

If the shortblock is strong I wouldnt break the thing open, who says after cam and heads that you dont spin a bearing a month later from the newfound abuse the motor will surely take.

I don't know who it was earlier that said it, but he's right , put some long-tubes and some other supporting cast items in place and save up for the magical day the motor starts clacking. Then do as you please.

Dadic 78

I've fired off an email to Lloyd Elliot to get his take on things. Looks like an LE1 setup will really get me into a good HP area, and not break the bank. I think I'll remove the motor before adding the LE1 setup though, just to refresh the bottom end. Plus, my rear main is leaking, so gotta take care of that as well.

As far as the bottom end goes with an LE1 setup, you think stock will be OK? Just clean things up, put in some new bearings, piston rings, etc???

WS Sick

Teh stock set-up fresh handles 6000 rpm easily, regular momentary jaunts to 6500 will be OK as long as the oil is there and detonation is not.

LT1SS

ur an idiot. he said n/a hp....... so if yo want 500 to the ground i suggest you go with a solid roller set up with all the bolt ons including electric waterpump, lightwieght flywheel, etc. if ur looking for flhp i would say a set of trick flow 195 heads and a xfi 280 or 292 will get yoiu there. 11.0:1 plus or minus