LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

383 short block project with LE2 top end.***Now running***Jan. 2011

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Old 01-02-2011, 12:28 PM
  #181  
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Is there a learning time process for the ECU ?
Not for the idle speed.
Basically just for the fuel trims.
Old 01-02-2011, 12:34 PM
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Don't let that thing idle for too long. Since it's a new motor you have to go put some load on it to get the rings to seat properly...get driving it ASAP!
Old 01-02-2011, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
Don't let that thing idle for too long. Since it's a new motor you have to go put some load on it to get the rings to seat properly...get driving it ASAP!

No hood , no fenders , no bumper + winter until spring 2011.....


No driving for me.....
Old 01-02-2011, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by RGSS
Not for the idle speed.
Basically just for the fuel trims.
Thanks.
Old 01-03-2011, 11:23 AM
  #185  
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Jan. 3rd 2011.
I have loaded the new tune in the car.
Idle is fine when cold but goes back to 1300 RPM when warm.

My new set up has tons of things different then before. ( bigger throttle body , injectors etc. ) .
All I did is change the injector size in the actual tune and now redone the idle table.
I'm sure there is much more to do but I'm unable to go on the dyno until April 2011.

Should I just give up or keep trying a bit more ?

I have no exhaust or vacuum leak ( I know this may affect the idle ) .

Any suggestions ?

Here's the video , cold it is fine but when warm is goes back up to 1300 RPM :


...Idle test 1...



1 hour after I've decided to play with the idle screw on the throttle body.
It is now idleing perfectly.
I have to wait for the motor to be completly cold and see if I will have a fast idle on cold start up.


New idle video comming + another one on cold start up.
Old 01-03-2011, 12:50 PM
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Idle test 2 when warm.
Idle was adjusted with the software ( like the prervious video ) but this time I have played with the set screw on the throttle body.


...idle test 2...
Old 01-03-2011, 01:22 PM
  #187  
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Sounds like your on the right path but like RamAir stated stop running it without putting load on it to seat the rings properly! Might be hard not to want to start it up and listen to it purr over the winter but better safe then sorry if those rings dont seat properly and you get blowby amongst other possible issues.
Old 01-03-2011, 04:01 PM
  #188  
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Car is back to cold so I gave it a try and it is working perfectly.
Fast idle and slowly comming back to regular idle.

The whole car is shaking , I love it.

I'm pretty much done for now so the next update will be this spring after a dyno tune.

Thanks to everyone for the help.
Old 01-04-2011, 07:52 PM
  #189  
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......Having a little issue here......


After my car idled a bit I shut it off and saw a spot of antifreeze on the floor.
It looks like it was comming from the left rear head.

When the car got cold again I took a tool to pressurize the cooling system hoping I'll find the leak.








Brought the pressure to 18lbs like my cap says









and found this :












Coolant is comming off the bolt itself.

I googled it and looks like it happen to many people , I called the machine shop and he said : Remove the bolt and apply some white tefflon tape and retorq it.
It sucks because I have to drain the coolant , remove the left header etc.
I haven't seen any other leaks with the pressurize test but I haven't lift the valve covers.

Lets hope it is the only one.

What you guys think I should do ?

I have $hit load of cash in this built and I did my best to do it right ( even if I have no experience ) the very technical stuff has been done by a machine shop and I paid for it. They said my head has been worked ( ported ) and he seems to say it has something to do with it. I don't beleive him but still.....
Old 01-04-2011, 11:56 PM
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I assume that you put teflon paste or sealant on the bolts when you put them in? I am just asking and no means insulting your or your ability.

I have had this happen with head studs but not bolts. I, and others have put some stop leak in the radiator(for leaky studs)and fixed it.

You said it's leaking out of the back. Is that the only place? I would look at the crossover tube on the back of the heads. That has been troublesome for some people too.

It "could" be leaking out of the crossover tube, down the block and dripping off the bolt.

I would investigate further before tearing anything apart.
Old 01-04-2011, 11:57 PM
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I looked at the pic again and it does seem that the cylinder head between the bolt and block has moisture or something on it. Obviously coolant doesn't travel upwards, not in this case anyhow.

Added:

If it it just that one bolt and you take it out make sure the beveled edge is facing the bolt not the head. I know ARP say's if its on backwards it can cause problems but I do not know exactly what the "problems" are.

I don't think because your heads are ported it would make it leak coolant there. I have seen heads that have been over ported on the exhaust side and went into a water jacket. If that was the case the coolant would be leaking inside the header and not out onto the block, if indeed that's where it's coming from.
Old 01-05-2011, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10
I assume that you put teflon paste or sealant on the bolts when you put them in?
The machine shop should have put some on. I didn't put the motor together.

It is comming from the head bolt for sure.

I'll think this over for a couple days before taking a decision.
Old 01-05-2011, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mpcv2000
The machine shop should have put some on. I didn't put the motor together.

It is comming from the head bolt for sure.

I'll think this over for a couple days before taking a decision.
Since they put it together what are they saying about it?
Old 01-05-2011, 10:41 AM
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They said : R emove the bolt and put some Teflon tape on it .
They also said because my heads are ported this can be the cause.
I really don't beleive them on that one.
Old 01-05-2011, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mpcv2000
They said : R emove the bolt and put some Teflon tape on it .
They also said because my heads are ported this can be the cause.
I really don't beleive them on that one.
Did you ask them if they put teflon on it why is it leaking?

If they are saying its leaking because the heads are ported I would be learey of them. Make sure if you take the head bolt out and put teflon on it, I'd use paste not tape, that it doesn't void any warranty for the work they have done.

If you take the bolt out and there is no teflon on it I'd take the engine back to them and have them do it right or take it somewhere else.
Old 01-05-2011, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mpcv2000
They said : R emove the bolt and put some Teflon tape on it .
They also said because my heads are ported this can be the cause.
I really don't beleive them on that one.
They would have to be going crazy on the porting to mess them up. I would look at the bolts first and then have the heads pressure tested.
Old 01-05-2011, 01:00 PM
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I didn't get the info about "paste" on the bolts from them but I assume they did.
They are a well known shop in Montreal area.

www.innotech-engine.com
Old 01-05-2011, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by fex77k
They would have to be going crazy on the porting to mess them up.
Lloyd did the heads ( LE2 ) so I'm not concern about him messing up the heads.
Old 01-09-2011, 03:02 PM
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Any updates?
Old 01-09-2011, 05:01 PM
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Not yet.... Still thinking about it.

I'm working on the rear end of the car right now to change my mind.


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