LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

383 short block project with LE2 top end.***Now running***Jan. 2011

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-26-2010, 11:16 AM
  #1  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
mpcv2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default 383 short block project with LE2 top end.***Now running***Jan. 2011

For about 2 weeks I've been searching here for infos and I found too many set up possible so now I'm confused.

Here's what I do with my car 1st . :

1994 LT1 T56

- I drive my car only on sunny days to cruise around town , I may hit the 1/4 mile a few times a year . I want this thing to be very drivable & reliable to cruise around town.

Lloyd Elliot suggested me his LE2 package with a ported intake and a camshaft with 223/230 .565/.565 112 LSA . ( bought it already May 2010 )

I will not spray or use any type of supercharger and I want a nice flat "torque" power for street use.

I want to get a rotating assembly to be able to put together a 383 CI that will be machined here locally .

I've heard "cast" , "nodular" "forged" crankshaft and I've heard rods that need to works with "regular base circle" camshaft ( what ever it means ) .

I'd like to know what you guys will suggest me for
-: Crankshaft .
-: Pistons ( with dish or not ) and brand .
-: rods that will work with "regular base circle" camshaft ( if it means something )
-: Oil pump ?
-Misc stuff I may forget.

I had the impression I was going to be able to figure that out myself but so many choices and options.

I'd like to spend around $1500.00 on the rotating assembly if possible.

I'm not building a race car , just a small car to have fun around town so please don't go too crazy with your suggestions. ( $$$ ) .

Thanks in advance for your help and knowledge.





Update July 13 2010

( 2010 Setup , now on motor stand just in case of emergency )
-GM LT1 5.7 Litre. 355CI Bore 0.030".
-JE SRP Forged Pistons (10.3:1 compression).
-Manley Sportsman Forged Rods.
-GM hotcam Kit (hotcam, LT4 springs, 1.6 Roller Rocker).
-Aluminum heads.
-Hedman 69640 Headers .
-MSD Ignition.
-CSR Electric Water pump.
-Ford Taurus V6 3.8L electric fan conversion.


***Work in progress*** : ( Updated March 7th 2011 )
Lloyd Elliot LE2 package. www.Elliottsportworks.com
-Fully Ported heads milled 0.030" with 0.56cc chamber, casting 10128374.
Manley 2.00/1.56 6000 series valves.
PAC 1218 bee hive springs (145 lbs seat and 340 lbs open)
Steel retainers and locks.
205 cc intake port flow about 275/190 CFM.
-12.05:1 Comp. Ratio , 230PSI Compression.
-CompCams Pro-Magnum Roller rocker 1.6:1 7/16" studs "NSF" (None Self Aligned).
-850-16 CompCams Hi-energy hydrolic roller lifter.
-7937-16 CompCams Hi-Tech Pushrods 5/16"X7.050".
-MR-1896 Sealed Power 5/16" Guide Plate.
-Fully ported Intake manifold casting 12552138.
-AS&M 58mm Throttle body.
-Ford Racing SVO 30 Lbs. Injectors.
-Custom camshaft 223/230 .565/.565 112 LSA .
-Fel Pro 1074 head gaskets .039".
-Fel Pro 1284 intake gaskets.
-Autolite #104 0.030".
-Hypertech 160 degree thermostat.
-MSD 83811 Pro-Billet Distributor.
-MSD 8226 Blaster coil.
-MSD 32149 8.5mm Spark plug wires.
-TPIS High flow mass air sensor housing.
-Meziere WP118HD Electric Water Pump.
-Holley 255lph fuel pump.
-Hedman 69640 modified for Fastburn "d" style GM exhaust port to 2.5" into 3" N1 Pipe to Magnaflow Muffler.
-Ford Taurus V6 3.8L electric fan conversion.


-Shortblock :
-385CI ( 6.3L ) LT1 4 Bolt main Corvette shortblock.
-Scat 9000 stroked lightweight forged crank.
-Scat forged rods.
-Mallory Forged Pistons -5cc.
-4045MS-15 .040" + .005" Mahle rings file to fit.
-Rings gap : 1st .018" , 2nd .020".
-ARP main studs.
-Melling 10555 High Volume Oil pump.
-Clevite 77 MS-909H STD bearings crank Bearings.
-Clevite 77 CB-663H STD Connecting rods bearings.
-12370835 GM single roller extreme duty timing chain set.
-Fluidampr Harmonic balancer # 740101.
-Balanced and Blueprinted.
-Cleaned, decked, bored .040 over and honed with deck plates, new frost plugs, etc.


-Transmision T56 6 Speed.
-Fidnanza #12 flywheel.
-SPEC 3 Pressure plate & Centerforce clutch disk.
-Pro 5.0 Short throw shifter.
-Abbott Electronic speedo converter.

Differential limited slip 4.10.

Last edited by mpcv2000; 03-08-2011 at 02:00 PM.
Old 05-26-2010, 10:19 PM
  #2  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
mpcv2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mpcv2000
........... and I found too many set up possible so now I'm confused.


Glad I'm not the only one.









Old 05-27-2010, 03:06 PM
  #3  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
mpcv2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default



















Old 05-27-2010, 03:56 PM
  #4  
8 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
 
fex77k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: AR
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by mpcv2000

I'd like to know what you guys will suggest me for
-: Crankshaft .
-: Pistons ( with dish or not ) and brand .
-: rods that will work with "regular base circle" camshaft ( if it means something )
-: Oil pump ?
-Misc stuff I may forget.
You are probably going to spend more like 2000, for pistons, forged crank, bearings, rings, and some 6in h beams. My eagle 6in H beams clear the cam easily, but have to be clearanced for the block. As far as the oilpump goes just run a regular M-55 melling.
Old 05-27-2010, 07:53 PM
  #5  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
RamAir95TA's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 9,467
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by fex77k
You are probably going to spend more like 2000, for pistons, forged crank, bearings, rings, and some 6in h beams. My eagle 6in H beams clear the cam easily, but have to be clearanced for the block. As far as the oilpump goes just run a regular M-55 melling.
I will disagree with you on the M55 Melling. Their housings have been known to break because of the weaker casting design (that's why they are so cheap). If I was the OP, I would go with the Melling SELECT line of pumps (particularly 10554).
Old 05-27-2010, 10:29 PM
  #6  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
mpcv2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

2K is ok for me also.
See we have two reply and already we have 2 different opinion.
Do I really have to go with forged crankshaft or cast "Nodular" what ever the difference is , will do the trick ? I don't think I'll be over 400 425 RWHP with my 383 LE2 setup and the restricted exhaust & headers I'm running right now.


Keep the comments comming , I'll pick what I think is OK for me.
This is a good debate and can be good for other members with a similar project too .
Old 05-27-2010, 11:09 PM
  #7  
8 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
 
fex77k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: AR
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
I will disagree with you on the M55 Melling. Their housings have been known to break because of the weaker casting design (that's why they are so cheap). If I was the OP, I would go with the Melling SELECT line of pumps (particularly 10554).
Damn yea that's what I have, I just meant don't run a HV.

This is the other things I'm running.
Eagle 3.8 Crank
Eagle H-beam 6" Rods
Wiseco Pro Tru 4.030" -13cc Pistons

You will want to use a 3.75 crank to get you 383 and make sure its forged and pick your brand.
Here is some pictures of them
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...3/PIC-0155.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...3/PIC-0156.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...3/PIC-0157.jpg

Last edited by fex77k; 05-27-2010 at 11:32 PM.
Old 05-28-2010, 12:04 AM
  #8  
Restricted User
iTrader: (2)
 
kalebm22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 707
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

well my setup is from clayton racing engines and i paid 1780 shipped for my scat rotating assembly. all forged with 5 cc dished pistons and the arp 2000 rod bolt upgrade with all the bearings i needed. i also use the meling select pump. i was inforrmed by clayton racing that this setup would support 750-1000hp and i belive 8000 rpms. i think you could get the same setup minus the rod bolts for 1700 and it would support up to 700 i think. this is the only setup i have used but i love it with my le2 heads and custom cam. it would be overkill for ur setup. but 200 extra dollars might be worth while in this case. i hope this helps, if you have any questions feel free to pm me.
Old 05-28-2010, 05:08 AM
  #9  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
mpcv2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Good info.
I'm always running 91+ Octane so what compression ratio & "cc" "dish" pistons I should get ?
Old 05-28-2010, 11:19 AM
  #10  
Restricted User
iTrader: (2)
 
kalebm22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 707
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mpcv2000
Good info.
I'm always running 91+ Octane so what compression ratio & "cc" "dish" pistons I should get ?
the tune is the most important part. i am running 12.5 to 1 compression on 91 octane but i have a little more cam than you. i think around 12 to 1 would be a good setup. which i think you can get that with a 10 cc dish and a thin head gasket. others need to chime in on that tho. my heads were milled .030 thousands the get 12.5 to one on my 5 cc dished pistions.
Old 05-28-2010, 11:37 AM
  #11  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
mpcv2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I already bought a Mr Gasket 5716 head gaskets .026 that Lloyd Elliot suggested me to get.
Old 05-28-2010, 11:40 AM
  #12  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
mpcv2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by kalebm22
...I am running 12.5 to 1 compression on 91 octane but i have a little more cam than you.
Have you dynoed your car ?
I'm curious to know what you have at the rear wheels.
Old 05-28-2010, 01:43 PM
  #13  
Restricted User
iTrader: (2)
 
kalebm22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 707
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mpcv2000
Have you dynoed your car ?
I'm curious to know what you have at the rear wheels.
yea i did, but it wasnt getting enough fuel so we shut it down early. hopefully it will put down 450rwhp with a good tune and enough fuel pressure
Old 05-30-2010, 09:38 PM
  #14  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
mpcv2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Someone has a 4 bolt main LT1 ( core ) , what question should I ask him to make sure it is the right block for my built ?
Old 05-31-2010, 10:29 AM
  #15  
8 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
 
fex77k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: AR
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by mpcv2000
Someone has a 4 bolt main LT1 ( core ) , what question should I ask him to make sure it is the right block for my built ?
To find out of its even remotely right I would make sure it didn't have a mechanical fuel pump boss and the 4 water pump holes on the front of the block are two easy ways to weed out a bunch of blocks. Then get him to tell you some part numbers off the block. Shoebox had good pics of all of the locations.

Last edited by fex77k; 05-31-2010 at 05:14 PM.
Old 05-31-2010, 10:34 AM
  #16  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
mpcv2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Perfect .
I'll make sure I double check the part number 1st before investing money on it.
Old 06-03-2010, 11:47 AM
  #17  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
mpcv2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Still haven't bought anything for the short block yet but here's what piston's specification I was suggested to buy :

Something with a negative piston pin ( what ever it means ) with preferred -10cc dish or -16cc .

I'm unable to locate some -10cc pistons but -16cc is pretty commond.

What you guys think of this :

Forged 383 racing rotating assembly for LT1 LT4 and all late 1 piece seal blocks

SCAT Forged 3.750 stroke crankshaft
SCAT Forged 6" H Beam connecting rods
MAHLE Powerpack forged Flat top coated piston kit ( to be confirm *cc* )
MAHLE file fite ring set
ACL Race engine bearings


Looks like I need to make sure the rods will work with a "Standard base circle" camshaft .

Any suggestions where I should get all my parts ? ( sponsor here , well known shop etc. ? )


Thanks.
Old 06-03-2010, 04:17 PM
  #18  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
RamAir95TA's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 9,467
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

There's no reason you should be running a dished piston. A flat-top with standard valve reliefs is all you need (most commonly -5cc) to keep the compression up.
Old 06-03-2010, 05:55 PM
  #19  
Restricted User
iTrader: (2)
 
kalebm22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 707
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
There's no reason you should be running a dished piston. A flat-top with standard valve reliefs is all you need (most commonly -5cc) to keep the compression up.
i agree! valve releifs is all you need. call corey at clayton racing. he will tell you exactly what you need and has everything u mentioned. those rods will clear a standard base cam just fine.
Old 06-03-2010, 06:04 PM
  #20  
TECH Enthusiast
 
vetteboy99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Memphis, tn
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

get a 383 forged kit for around 2000. Whole bottom end Except for block


Quick Reply: 383 short block project with LE2 top end.***Now running***Jan. 2011



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:42 PM.