LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Electric Water pump and wiring Q & A

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Old 06-23-2010 | 08:37 PM
  #21  
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i didnt forget about taking those pics for you. It has been raining its *** off here and i forgot to pull the car back in the garage, It just stopped so let me see what i can do for you.
Old 06-23-2010 | 09:26 PM
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okay here we go. This is just to show you where it will be located as well as what terminal is what on the relay.




this image shows where to receive your ground and main power (this is reference only, Mine have been relocated)
Old 06-23-2010 | 09:53 PM
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next i will show you the wiring. It is cluttered up inside of there so I did the best i could to take the pictures.

Old 06-23-2010 | 09:55 PM
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WTF i dont know why but for some reason none of what i write on the images is showing up now. I will do them all and post up the link to my photobucket so you can go and look. Sorry about the inconvenience.
Old 06-23-2010 | 10:12 PM
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and here is your wiring on the underside of the fuse block,

Also i just realized that i wrote main power block on two different images. The image showing the fuse and ignition power should NOT BE MAIN POWER BLOCK but instead should BE POWER LEADING THE EWP which is the blue wire coming from the pump itself. I hope all this helps. Let me know if you need anything else.
Old 06-23-2010 | 10:14 PM
  #26  
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here is the link to my photobucket that has all the writing on it. I would highly recommend going to it to see the pics.
http://s687.photobucket.com/albums/vv233/litch2004png/
Old 06-27-2010 | 11:15 PM
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thx all for the help so far, today i completely installed my EWP and my temps are running 168+/- consistently 178+/- ish with a/c on.with a 160 t-stat. I chose not to remove water pump shaft/gear from motor untill i have to get in there for the efi24x goodies...i noticed idle smooth'd a bit after this mod,also the newish stock pump ran 185+/- on an 160 t-stat. I used the stock location of the air pump relay I clipped and rewired the socket. I got an IGN signal from the air pump fuse. the schematic in post#1 helped once i understood it...still don't know how i'm going to add a sudden death light, but really want too .sorry no pic's @ the moment (camera's dead),but we all know what a modded stock pump looks like on a clean 93....Right?

Any one want to chime in on how long YOUR pumps have been lasting/running?

Last edited by defaultexistence; 06-27-2010 at 11:41 PM.
Old 06-27-2010 | 11:40 PM
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well im glad they ended up showing all the words that i typed onto the pictures. I would have been pissed if it didnt work after all the effort i put into doing it. But anyways im glad to hear that it is working for you.
Old 09-16-2010 | 07:03 PM
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Default How long does a EWP last

defaultexistence:Any one want to chime in on how long YOUR pumps have been lasting/running?
Hey:

My 1st EWP lasted over 65,000 miles, its replacement just died after 70,000 both CSR. So expect to replace them around 67,500 or so from the avg of my two. Other than the waterproof ends I put on, I can replace it in about a half an hour, and for long trips, I had the old one refurbed by CSR and carry as a spare. Just a note I run distilled water and water wetter in the summer and 50/50 water and old green anti freeze in colder weather. Temps stay around 180-185 in the summer in the Hottest part of the Carolinas, in traffic with A/C on and a BeCool radiator & 160 stat., fans come on around 185* and off @ 175. They don't run much in colder weather.
The Radiator is not needed, my old rad cracked at the neck top and the BeCool was the best replacement I could find at the time. Good Luck with your EWP, I hope you get at least as long as I have out of them, My car has gone thru stages where it sits for long periods of time, (not always indoors) while I was deployed overseas, during the last 10 years. I don't think that adds life to electrical components, or anything else for that matter.

Dub
Old 09-16-2010 | 07:23 PM
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I Personally loved my EWP i noticed a snappier throttle response and cooler temps !
I bought mine from a fellow member by the name of "Fast" for $160 shipped quick!
he (FAST) was great at offering as little information about it as possible and accel'd at responding in incomplete sentences .
It lasted almost 2 Whole months till it started melting its power wires and seized!
it made noise from the moment I professionally installed it using a relay in the stock relay box under the hood...
I then took it to a local electric motor repair shop only to find out that its wasted gheeee i wonder why he was selling it?
Thanks again "Fast" For the $160 door stop!
Word of advise to those heading down this road....there is no need to remove the gear sticking out of the timing cover..leave it alone..why,YOU ASK? just incase you have an emergency and have to throw a sock WP back on.
Take it from me, buy one with a warranty and enjoy! they are advertised as " 3500 hours or 50,000 miles of every day use"
Old 09-16-2010 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by defaultexistence
thx all for the help so far, today i completely installed my EWP and my temps are running 168+/- consistently 178+/- ish with a/c on.with a 160 t-stat. I chose not to remove water pump shaft/gear from motor untill i have to get in there for the efi24x goodies...i noticed idle smooth'd a bit after this mod,also the newish stock pump ran 185+/- on an 160 t-stat. I used the stock location of the air pump relay I clipped and rewired the socket. I got an IGN signal from the air pump fuse. the schematic in post#1 helped once i understood it...still don't know how i'm going to add a sudden death light, but really want too .sorry no pic's @ the moment (camera's dead),but we all know what a modded stock pump looks like on a clean 93....Right?

Any one want to chime in on how long YOUR pumps have been lasting/running?
My CSR has been running for 5 years and 47,000 miles. And I haven't replaced an opti since the CSR went in. I had replaced the stock waterpump and opti 4 times in the 40,000 before the switch.
Old 09-16-2010 | 11:54 PM
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defaultexistence:
Word of advise to those heading down this road....there is no need to remove the gear sticking out of the timing cover..leave it alone..why,YOU ASK? just incase you have an emergency and have to throw a sock WP back on
Hey:

If your going to reinstall the old mech pump do your self a favour and tap the weep hole and put a low rise 90* fitting in there with silicone hose tubing and run it far away from the opti. That way when it leaks out it can't go on/in the opti

Dub
Old 09-17-2010 | 08:04 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 1993 z28 f1
Hey:

If your going to reinstall the old mech pump do your self a favour and tap the weep hole and put a low rise 90* fitting in there with silicone hose tubing and run it far away from the opti. That way when it leaks out it can't go on/in the opti

Dub
thanks but too late... its been on for a couple of weeks. i plan on getting a new CSR EWP soon so no worries.

THANKS Fast!
Old 09-17-2010 | 09:57 AM
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Tagging this thread.
Old 09-17-2010 | 11:35 AM
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glad to see my write-up helped you with the wiring. Wish it could be made as a sticky without the other posts so it could help out others as well. Since this is a common mod.
Old 11-18-2010 | 11:32 PM
  #36  
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i think i just sharted ...
Old 04-12-2011 | 09:19 AM
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Nice write-up on the relay position for the EWP.
Old 04-12-2011 | 09:58 AM
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From: Jackstandican
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I used this one:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...T3ZZAg&cad=rja

... including the BG relay. Mounted the relay under the fuse box.
Old 04-12-2011 | 10:39 AM
  #39  
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...waterpump.html

see this and read down to my posts........
Old 06-16-2019 | 09:59 PM
  #40  
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Default Electric water pump.

Originally Posted by litch2004
here is your answer for both.mine is wired up to where my factory smog pump relay used to be connected to.
So if I'm planning on using my old smog pump relay do I eliminate the existing wiring from the ecm so I don't get any issues.


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