my project..
Im thinking the rockers arent set right. I had 1 just a tad to tight and it wouldnt start. I had it running but thought I heard a loose rocker and adjusted them again, and bam would not fire. Went through them again and found I had over tightened one. Got it all back together and found out it was a header leak.
so i have spark at the coil, spark at the plugs, and 45psi of fuel pressure at the fuel rail.. the car starts for about 5 seconds with some starter fluid sprayed into the intake, but it's just burning that starter fluid up, so with that in mind, wouldn't that say that the injectors arn't fireing..
Verify that your injectors are getting power. Are your plugs wet with fuel from cranking it? I'm assuming you've checked all your fuses and have the injector plugs on the right injectors (they should be marked).
i haven't pulled any plugs to check if they're wet, but i have verified that i'm getting spark at the plugs by unplugging a wire and plugging an unused plug up to it and starting it, so if they plugs were getting wet, they are sparking, and they're not. so i think that's kinda unnecessary. I've checked all my fuses, and all check out fine.
how do i go about checking to see if my injectors are getting power?
Theres a few different ways to check. Have someone in the car cranking it over, while you hold a stethiscope or screwdriver up to a injector. With one ear on the end of the screwdriver and the other end on the injector listen for a ticking noise (injector opening and closing). Or you can use a noid light, You hold it up to the injector and when the coil inside the injector is energized the light will come on showing you your getting power. Obviously check all of them. There might be other ways to check but these two seem to be pretty easy. I guess you could unplug the injector harness and use a multimeter to check for power aswell, not sure how well that would work though since the power will be coming on and off very fast might be tough to read.
Theres a few different ways to check. Have someone in the car cranking it over, while you hold a stethiscope or screwdriver up to a injector. With one ear on the end of the screwdriver and the other end on the injector listen for a ticking noise (injector opening and closing). Or you can use a noid light, You hold it up to the injector and when the coil inside the injector is energized the light will come on showing you your getting power. Obviously check all of them. There might be other ways to check but these two seem to be pretty easy. I guess you could unplug the injector harness and use a multimeter to check for power aswell, not sure how well that would work though since the power will be coming on and off very fast might be tough to read.
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brakes are done and bled, and all suspension is greased, so i put the car on the ground.
i'm waiting on my pcm from pcmforless, and hopefully that fixes my issues and i'm able to start it and drive it.
oh yeah, and i have to get spacers made for the sway bar to work with the relocation bracket.
i also got new taillights from a member on here, and got them installed due to getting a ticket for my blacked out tail lights a few days before tearing into the car.
here's a slight wheelie shot with the lights installed.
and clean the **** out of it.
i'm waiting on my pcm from pcmforless, and hopefully that fixes my issues and i'm able to start it and drive it.
oh yeah, and i have to get spacers made for the sway bar to work with the relocation bracket.
i also got new taillights from a member on here, and got them installed due to getting a ticket for my blacked out tail lights a few days before tearing into the car.
here's a slight wheelie shot with the lights installed.
and clean the **** out of it.
okay, so here's the plan. my pcm will be here on Friday, i got incredibly tired of the upkeep on the valve covers already, so i pulled them off, and they're getting dropped off at the powdercoaters along with the throttle body for chrome powder coat tomorrow. I've gotta head to the machine shop to get spacers made for the sway bar for clearing issues with the relocation bracket, and then hook up the sway bar, valve covers, pcm, and valve covers, and the car will be ready to start the break in period by mid next week. 
and of course before then I've gotta give it a good detail before it hits the streets.
and of course before then I've gotta give it a good detail before it hits the streets. 
Just a little suggestion ..head down to your local napa and buy a couple 3" stainless band clamps for your exhaust ...antiseize the pipes real good and put them on...you will able to get them apart easier if you ever want to uncap it at the track...
pcm ground is attached. thanks though.
Looks good dude, reminds me of my car with the harwood hood. I always wanted to see how the flat black grand sport stripes would look on a black car with a harwood cowl now I now.