SPEED#1

iTrader: (14)

Its the car in my sig and many of you have followed my build thread. It has a tubular k member, stock upper and lowers with LS1 brakes/spindles. Stock lt1 power steering rack and the problem were having is that it will not TOE centered. The left side outer tie rod has about 10 threads left before bottoming out and that wheel will center perfect with the steering wheels straight as well. The right side outer tie rod is completely bottomed out and there is no more room to go inward. The wheel is 2.7* Toe out and still needs to come in 2.7* which is probably 6+ turns. I also specialize in suspension and alignments as well as 3 other people I personally know that are also members on here. We cant figure this out and need ideas quickly. I had put new outer tie rods on the car and double checked them with another set and they have the same thread count. Its as if I need a longer tie rod on the right side only. What can this be?
Has anyone ever encountered this before?
Thanks

SPEED#1

iTrader: (14)

anyone?

draggin97s10

iTrader: (2)

yes i have. i worked as a tech for 4 years
if im understanding correctly one sides maxed and one side opposite.
take the steering wheel off. find the center. put the steering wheel back on. take the outer tierods loose put them in the middle of the thread count then start aligning it.

SPEED#1

iTrader: (14)

I thought the same thing. But im not sure the wheel will go back on with out any issues. Isnt the wheel splined only 1 way? I thought of doing this and hopefully it can work, but im not sure.

gc302047

iTrader: (4)

i have the same problem. im tubular everything up front but i cant get the toe fixed correctly also.

SPEED#1

iTrader: (14)

Ive read this problem before and I heard about it being the tubular frame was jigged incorrectly and the rack needed to be moved over about a 1/2". But I couldnt find the info on this

draggin97s10

iTrader: (2)

no the wheel is not only splined one way. ive had them on and off several times. do it it will work. and also your probably correct on the kmember not be right.

SPEED#1

iTrader: (14)

Ya well will the airbag or clock spring be off and cause problems or not? Either way even if I do that there still isnt enough threads for the right outer tie rod to come in anymore. So that still wont fix the problem. I checked 2 other tie rod companies and all of them have the same thread count + or - 2 threads. I need more threads.
I either need a longer outer tie rod with more threads or I have some majorly fucked up

draggin97s10

iTrader: (2)

what about cutting the inner tie rod down and chasing the threads to smooth it?

brucer

i worked on a mustang, put a tubular k-member, i used sleeves screwed onto the rack, then screwed heim joints into the sleeves, and drilled out the spindles to accept a 1/2 bolt..

SPEED#1

iTrader: (14)

Tried that with about 4 threads off of it and it stilll has a problem it needs to go in a LOt further still. It literally needs a longer tie rod or something?

draggin97s10

iTrader: (2)

how fars naperville from kansas city. im about to drive up there

flame

iTrader: (13)

Did you have the steering shaft off the rack when you did the k-member? If so was the rack centered when you put the shaft back on?

Did you use the LS1 complete spindles? I know when I did my LS1 motor swap and switched to the LS1 rack the toe was out a mile so there is a difference in the spindle/rack setup between LT1 and LS1 cars. I can't remember if it was toe in or out but it was very visible.