killagt

iTrader: (3)

thx for the link

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

imm not saying it would be joe..**** drop the hammer with a 750hp car an you wouldnt go no where..

remember also having a 3k lb car vs a 34000lb car is a big diff..

i

meine96ws6

iTrader: (4)

it all depends on the actual rear end.. like mentioned some of them last and the majority usually fail eventually..

mine has been good to me.. but, i also haven't been on the track with sticky tires..

4K+Converter

I've seen a 1.48 60' on a 10 bolt.

hitmanws6

iTrader: (20)

It depends how you use it. Mine has lasted over 200K with 2.73s, but its never been to the track, just some fun on the street. My fiance went through 1 in 5 years, she had a stalled auto with 3.73s. She dragged it and street raced with it. Her best 60 foot was 1.8 on street tires. So just know what you have and don't be stupid with it.

monzter

Thanks for your answer. as mentioned above I'we only ran 13.1 with no traction at all 2.6 60 ft But this weekend i am going to try to get the 60 ft times down under 2.0 sec.
My car has auto with 3500 stall converter, But I'we never run sticky tires before !!!

Thanks again, Nice to see that it's working for some of you, to abuse the little 10 bolt. Are you using any special trick's to keep it alive at the strip ?

Best regards.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

The only money I would ever spend on a 10 bolt is getting a 3.42 rear out of an M6 car (unless you have one already). Even if you already have an M6, IMO don't do "gears". That would set you back anywhere from about $300-$750, depending if you do the work yourself, if you get a TA cover, etc etc.

That $300-$750 can be better put towards a dana s60, 12 bolt, or 9 inch.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Most likely your 10 bolt will live under these conditions.

10 bolt, stickies, M6 or auto, dead hooks = Kaboom indeed in your future.
10 bolt, stickies, M6, street = Kaboom very possible.
10 bolt, stickies, auto, street = Kaboom, maybe.
10 bolt, street tires, M6 or auto, Kabbom not likely.
10 bolt, parked, Kaboom not gonna happen.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

I know. I was just pointing out that in the end you still don't have a bulletproof rear. Those who do modify the stock 10-bolt shouldn't expect it to be 100% indestructible. Better than stock, yes! Comparable to a 9", no way.

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

yep..im going with 40 spline gun drilled axles in my 9"..**** sucks but i have to do it for the power im going after.

Revson

iTrader: (60)

You guys that are cutting decent 60ft's on a 10 bolt 1.6-1.8, are you using slicks or drag radials?

Speedy

Notice the people who are breaking are 3.73? The bigger the ratio the smaller the pinion gear. On a 10 bolt I've been told to stick with 3.23s or 3.42. Anything larger go to a 12 or 9 bolt.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

Not entirely true.

For example..... 4.10 gear ratio means 41 ring gear teeth and 10 pinion gear teeth.

4.11 gear ratio means 37 ring gear teeth and 9 pinion gear teeth.

The more teeth there are, the smaller each tooth is. Thus 4.10s have smaller teeth than 4.11s. So 4.11s should be stronger.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

Interesting. About Ford rear ends but:

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/axle.htm

2.73 rear: 30 ring gear teeth 11 pinion gear teeth

3.08 rear: 37 ring gear teeth 12 pinion gear teeth

3.27 rear: 36 ring gear teeth 11 pinion gear teeth

3.55 rear: 39 ring gear teeth 11 pinion gear teeth

3.73 rear: 41 ring gear teeth 11 pinion gear teeth

4.10 rear: 41 ring gear teeth 10 pinion gear teeth

4.56 rear: 41 ring gear teeth 9 pinion gear teeth

In theory then 3.73s should actually be as weak or weaker than 4.10s. 4.11s should be as strong or stronger than all except 2.73s and 3.27s.

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

The ring gear can break too, not to mention the diff. I'm still on the original 3.73's I put in when I bought the car but I've gone through a few diffs.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

You mean the pinion gears, right? Usually ring gears break.

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

A4- typically good for low 11's as long as your not pulling the front wheels 2ft at launch.

M6- typically good for low 12's, but than I have read stories about guys breaking them on the street W/STREET TIRES!!!.


Nothing is going to change the fact the faster you go the better chance it will break. Dont bother to spend much money on it if any, I rebuild mine with a eaton diff, complete bearing & shims, welded the tubes, solid pinion spacer instead of a crush sleeve and a TA cover. It cost about 500 in parts and 5 hrs in labor. ( i had help with the ring & pinion) And if i dumped the clutch at 4k Im pretty sure I would be walking home from the track.

Buy a 12, 9 or s60.

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

I probaly make around 390-400rwhp with my auto and still running the 10-bolt. They seem to hold up decently well in autos for quite some time but they will eventually come to a breaking point.

I've been cutting 1.6 or faster 60' foots for the past 2+ years on it and within the last year I've been cutting mid to high 1.5's both on slicks and drag radials. Besides replacing the stock 3.23's with a set of 3.73's I haven't bothered putting any money into it since I know it will break eventually. I have been impressed with it so far and if I can get another year out of it I will be ecstatic. I always have my fingers crossed and my AAA card handy just in case.

monzter

That's fantastic to hear. I went to the track this weekend on MT ET-Street's but didn't quite get any traction at all, My 60 ft.. times didn't go lower than 1.9 Sec. And I was running in Low 12. sec range for the first time out.

Best regards.

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

With your 3500 stall, 3.73's and tires you should be capable of cutting 1.6-1.7 60's I would imagine.

How was the track prepped? What psi were you running in the tires? Wheel hopping any?