LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Stock 10 bolt !

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Old 07-15-2010, 09:32 PM
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just go with a moser 9 from brutespeed.. You will never have a problem again
Old 07-15-2010, 10:40 PM
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had a set of Richmond 4.10's put in the stock housing with nothing else, drove it for 2k miles and killed it on street tires launching form 2500
Old 07-16-2010, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by StealthFormula
With your 3500 stall, 3.73's and tires you should be capable of cutting 1.6-1.7 60's I would imagine.

How was the track prepped? What psi were you running in the tires? Wheel hopping any?
They did prepped the track with VHT but the tools we use to prep the track are very bad, So I'm not sure if the VHT did any good this evening. It was also getting "colder" outside when I was at the track.

I Started running with 12 Psi, in them tires and there was no signs of wheel hop at any time.

I didn't stall the converter up. i did just smash it at idle.

How are you doing your burnout's with 4 speed Auto ? and what launch technique are you guys using ?

Best regards.
Old 07-16-2010, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by monzter
They did prepped the track with VHT but the tools we use to prep the track are very bad, So I'm not sure if the VHT did any good this evening. It was also getting "colder" outside when I was at the track.

I Started running with 12 Psi, in them tires and there was no signs of wheel hop at any time.

I didn't stall the converter up. i did just smash it at idle.

How are you doing your burnout's with 4 speed Auto ? and what launch technique are you guys using ?

Best regards.
I run 16 psi in my Mt DRs & leave about 200 rpms over idle and smash it,1.70-1.71 60 ft. when I dropped my psi to 12 I got alot of wiggle when I let off at the traps at 112 mph. I start burn out in 1st then bump it to 2nd, I also use a line lock.
Old 07-16-2010, 11:37 AM
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I keep a few 10 bolt around there cheap to replace and take about an hour to install it every time it blows up i'm on my third one now...it's alternative to buying a beefer rear diff.....I will when i run out of stocker for sure
Old 07-16-2010, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullit95T/A
I keep a few 10 bolt around there cheap to replace and take about an hour to install it every time it blows up i'm on my third one now...it's alternative to buying a beefer rear diff.....I will when i run out of stocker for sure
I did this same thing, except after the fourth one it didn't make any sense to keep doing it. In came the 9".
Old 07-18-2010, 08:50 PM
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i don't see the point in welding the axle tubes. the torque transfer back to the rear axle housing by the wheels is absorbed by the torque arm mounted to the case. the lower control arms are mounted to the ends of the axle tubes and are what push the car forward. seems to me welding is a trick used for leaf spring cars where the springs did all the work moving the car and controlling the axle rotation and suspension movements. am i missing something? just doesn't seem necessary with the setup these cars have.
Old 07-18-2010, 09:19 PM
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mine is stock with 3.42 gears and cuts 1.5 60 foots and 11.60's @117.
ive seen many 10 second cars on 10 bolts
Old 07-18-2010, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by monzter
They did prepped the track with VHT but the tools we use to prep the track are very bad, So I'm not sure if the VHT did any good this evening. It was also getting "colder" outside when I was at the track.

I Started running with 12 Psi, in them tires and there was no signs of wheel hop at any time.

I didn't stall the converter up. i did just smash it at idle.

How are you doing your burnout's with 4 speed Auto ? and what launch technique are you guys using ?

Best regards.

That's too low a pressure for ET Street Radials. I have the same tires and I run 20psi in them and cut 1.5's 60' foots all day long. Next time out set them to 20 psi and make a pass. If it hooks then keep adding air in 1 psi increments until it spins. If it spins do the exact opposite until it hooks. By running too low a psi you are eating up MPH on the big end.

The whole pass including the burnout I leave the car in 3rd which is 3 in a Firebird or D in a Camaro. I do no manual shifting at all whatsoever. I go through the water pit and perform a small burnout because doing large ones actually does more harm than good with these tires. Just a couple seconds to clean them off and they are set.

For the launch I brake stall it to about 1200rpm just to preload the suspension then let it rip when the light goes green.

Last edited by StealthFormula; 07-18-2010 at 11:35 PM. Reason: Wrong tires
Old 07-18-2010, 10:17 PM
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^^^^x2 same works great for me i run from about 18 to 23 psi with my MT dr's
Old 07-18-2010, 10:45 PM
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Are we talking about ET Streets or MT Drag Radials?

ET Streets:



ET Street Radials:



I run the ET Streets between 12 and 13 psi and have had good results.
Old 07-18-2010, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
Are we talking about ET Streets or MT Drag Radials?

ET Streets:



ET Street Radials:



I run the ET Streets between 12 and 13 psi and have had good results.
Damnit I always forget to add in the radial part since the bias-ply version is called the ET Street. I'm talking about the radials not sure about the OP now.
Old 07-18-2010, 11:40 PM
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I've broken two rears..one a stock 3.42 and a richmond 4.10 gear set. Both broke on the street with street tires and funny part is neither time I was beating on the car just putting around and pop
Old 07-19-2010, 07:38 AM
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I'm running ET street nylon tires.
It's getting down, i'm at 1.82 60 ft. now at 12.2 at 113 mp/h but I feel like i should be able to run a bit better 60 ft. !

Are you guys running stock suspension when cutting 1.5/1.6 60 ft. times ?
Old 07-19-2010, 07:41 AM
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You should be cutting those times, people are doing 1.8s on stock suspension/street tires
Old 07-19-2010, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by monzter
I'm running ET street nylon tires.
It's getting down, i'm at 1.82 60 ft. now at 12.2 at 113 mp/h but I feel like i should be able to run a bit better 60 ft. !

Are you guys running stock suspension when cutting 1.5/1.6 60 ft. times ?
Yea just basic suspension pieces like aftermarket control arms, lca brackets, torque arm and panhard rod. When I was trapping 113mph I was cutting 1.6's at that time and running 11.80-90's. With some tweaks you will have 11's at that trap speed with an auto.

When I had the the same tires as you I couldn't cut a 60' better than 1.65. I then switched to the ET Street Radials and my 60's dropped down to late 1.5's, no other changes were made that would effect my 60'. IMO they are great tires but for a car like yours they are overkill. I think just switching to a radial would help you some but there still is quite a bit of improvement to be made somewhere.

How long are your burnouts?

Last edited by StealthFormula; 07-19-2010 at 09:55 AM.
Old 07-19-2010, 12:09 PM
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i cut 1.5 60 foot times on 275-50 -15 mt drag radial and bmr Non-Adjustable lowers the rest is all stock with no front sway bar
oh and thats also with the stock converter
Old 07-19-2010, 12:43 PM
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Yes, next time i go to the track i'm going to remove the front sway bar to seek for improvements in 60. ft...
I'm running 3500 Stall converter And i'we gone fastest 115 mp/h but that was on street tires and i couldnt give it full throttle until after 100-120 ft.
So if i will be lucky and cut my 60 ft.'s down a bit i might be knocking at the elevens !

I'we tried all kinds of burnouts - short, medium and long. and so far medium lenght burnout has worked best for me. I start in 2nd. gear and shift at 5000 rpm to 3rd. and after 5 sec. I leave at full throttle.

Best regards.
Old 07-20-2010, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by YodiBrodi
i don't see the point in welding the axle tubes. the torque transfer back to the rear axle housing by the wheels is absorbed by the torque arm mounted to the case. the lower control arms are mounted to the ends of the axle tubes and are what push the car forward. seems to me welding is a trick used for leaf spring cars where the springs did all the work moving the car and controlling the axle rotation and suspension movements. am i missing something? just doesn't seem necessary with the setup these cars have.
you are wrong welding tubes help alot..the tube flexs an wants to rotate..ford guys weld there 8.8s all the time..
Old 07-20-2010, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by suicidal racing
you are wrong welding tubes help alot..the tube flexs an wants to rotate..ford guys weld there 8.8s all the time..
You know, since you brought up the 8.8, which is a superior rear end compared to our 7.5's, I just wanted to say that I am gonna have to side with yodibrodi on this one. I know a guy with a 4500# b-body running 1.4x 60' times deep in the 9's in the 1/4 with his stock housed 8.5" 10 bolt. Granted, he has a spool and moser axles but the point is he is pushing a car that weighs 1500# more than the fox bodies, with a rear supposedly not as strong as the 8.8 and the tubes are not welded at all.

I know this is a different set up than the f-bodies, just trying to make a more similar comparison to the 8.8.


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