LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

400rwtq daily driver. possible? how ? being reliable

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Old 07-26-2010, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 4K+Converter
If you want to drive around 2K rpm, or anywhere like stock, I'd recommend a super or turbo charged setup.

My old LE2/CC306 setup wouldn't operate under 1800 rpm, and driving around town I was spinning 2600 rpm just keeping up with other cars in traffic. Although in 4th, with the converter locked up it did cruise nicely around 2100 rpm.
??? you absolutely do not need forced induction to make 400 ft lbs and be streetable. 400 hp/ft lbs isn't really asking a whole lot out of a motor anyhow and for that to not be streetable than there is something wrong in the combo. I would have to say that in your experience with LE2/CC306 on what I am assuming was stock cubes than that would not be a very street friendly motor anyhow just looking at it on paper. That 306 cam likes some rpm as long as you have enough head to support it but I am sure if you would have gone with either a smaller cam on 350/355 or had it been a 383 it would have been very streetable. The rpms you were spinning around town though seem more indicative of a loose stall than a poorly spec'd motor IMO
Old 07-26-2010, 08:08 PM
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[QUOTE=RamAir95TA;13650938
My combo puts down exactly what you're looking for. Here's my spending break-down:

Forged short-block (including 4-bolt main block found online, forged rods, pistons, crank, assembly, machining, bearings, etc.) - $3800.
Ported Advanced Induction 200cc heads/cam/intake manifold - $2500.
Rockers, pushrods, lifters, timing chain - $550.
Exhaust (LPP headers) - $500.
Required bolt-ons (42# injectors, electric water pump, coil, plug wires, plugs, throttle body, etc.) - $1000.
Mail-order/dyno tune - $400.

).[/QUOTE]

BUILD A COPY OF THIS MOTOR.....you will be very happy when things are all said and done. AI also offers shortblocks and rebuild kits for 355/383's. Check out their site. Prepare to part with half your bank account, maybe more...
Old 07-26-2010, 08:30 PM
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If you think a 355 H/C/I is not streetable then you built yours wrong!

I have a 357 H/C/I puttign down 401 RWHP and 373 RWTQ at my last dyno session, and that was before my new intake and before a little tweaking on my tune and I DD mine ALL OVER TOWN!

Here is a breakdown of my build:

350 LT1 bored .040 (357)
Oversized Stock Replacment Pistons
Stock Replacement Crank/Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
LE2 Heads
Patriot Extreme Race Dual Springs .660 Lift
Comp Cams Ultra Pro-Mag 1.6 NSA Roller Rockers
Trick Flow Chromemoly Pushrods
Corvette LS7 Lifters
Comp Cams Custom Grind Baby Cam
(220/226, .570/.565, 110 LSA) Now you all get my specs haha
March Underdrive Crank Pulley
Ported Intake Manifold
58mm Professional Products Throttle Body
LS1 SLP Air Lid, Air Box, and K&N Filter
Ford SVO 30# Fuel Injectors
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
LPP Stainless Steel Long Tube Headers (1 3/4 Stepped to 1 7/8)
LPP 3" Off Road Y-Pipe
SLP Loudmouth 1 Resonator dumped before axle
Partsladi Delphi Opti
MSD Cap/Rotor
MSD 6AL Ignition Control
MSD 8.5mm Superconductor Spark Plug Wires routed over the valve covers
CSR Electric Water Pump
Spec Stage 4 Clutch
Built T56 Tranny
working on the new rear end.

All in all I spent over 7K for my build including labor. Will be just over 8K after I finish the rear end.

My car is VERY streetable and has no issues on the road, even when its raining. I run Goodyear Eagle Street Tires, not some sticky Nittos, and I can break em loose when I want, and I can make it take off when I want. It all depends on what you want to get out of it and how much you want to spend.

Dont short change it though, I learned that. If your going to do it, do it right!
Old 07-26-2010, 08:32 PM
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Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I switched over to an OBD1 setup as well. The 97 OBD2 crap was pissing me off so I changed my knock sensor to a 94 sensor, and got a PCM from a 94 LT1 M6, and tuned that. Worked GREAT!
Old 07-26-2010, 11:08 PM
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Sweet I have an obd1. In my 95 m6. I'm looking forward to my 383 build LE2 h/c/I. I hope to see 400rwtq which stroker kit? Company etc? Should I go with?
Old 07-26-2010, 11:30 PM
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Nitrous.
Old 07-27-2010, 12:17 AM
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That 400 rwtq will be harder to reach with a 355 NA. A 383 would be a better bet if you are that hung up on hitting the 400 mark.
Old 07-27-2010, 12:22 AM
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I want the feel of a street monster and dyno queen. Not track, I want the feel of insane amounts of torque, before I try forced induction
Old 07-27-2010, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by alexcoreas
I want the feel of a street monster and dyno queen. Not track, I want the feel of insane amounts of torque, before I try forced induction
Buy that cam tireburnin is selling in the western section. Should give you what you want
Old 07-27-2010, 02:05 PM
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This is what you should do.
Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
My combo puts down exactly what you're looking for. Here's my spending break-down:

Forged short-block (including 4-bolt main block found online, forged rods, pistons, crank, assembly, machining, bearings, etc.) - $3800.
Ported Advanced Induction 200cc heads/cam/intake manifold - $2500.
Rockers, pushrods, lifters, timing chain - $550.
Exhaust (LPP headers) - $500.
Required bolt-ons (42# injectors, electric water pump, coil, plug wires, plugs, throttle body, etc.) - $1000.
Mail-order/dyno tune - $400.

Keep in mind, that's just for the motor. You'll need a trans, rear, gear, and suspension to handle the power. That HP is no good if you can't get it to the ground.

I have a 388 with ported Darts and intake, it costs more than I really wanted to spend but its been together for over a year and has done a few 12+ hour trips. It easily put down 400+ on both rwhp and tq with a tame tune(stingy dyno, but I don't care about the numbers cause we were just going after the right fuel tables). Its a healthy cam for the street 230/240 .560+. I drive it whenever it isn't raining it doesn't get the best gas mileage but it has plenty of power for street tires.
Old 07-27-2010, 02:44 PM
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you can run a street friendly heads and cam kit and not spend much.. Now that should get you close to your overall goal..

what is your budget..
Old 07-27-2010, 03:41 PM
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400 rwtq is EASY with a stroker. I did it with out of the box heads and an off the shelf cam. I have less than 2500 into my shortblock and 1500 in heads, add up all the other supporting mods and you could probably squeak by for around 6,000 to get the power you are looking for, as for getting that power to the ground effectively and reliably now that is a whole different story. There is a link to my build thread in my sig if you are interested
Old 07-27-2010, 04:10 PM
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7grand is my budget for now, 7is what I actually have now this min
Old 07-27-2010, 04:22 PM
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100 shot and keep 6500 in your pocket.
Old 07-27-2010, 05:45 PM
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F/I if you have the $$. It will drive like stock and your shortblock is the limiting factor in power.
Old 07-27-2010, 05:46 PM
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WiThout the bottle with a bottle I want 550
Old 07-27-2010, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by gregrob
100 shot and keep 6500 in your pocket.
Nitrous costs around 3x that if you want to do it right.
Old 07-27-2010, 05:54 PM
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I want 400 rwtq motor and spray after I get the feel of 400 if I crave more. I want to do everything right one time. Thanks guys
Old 07-28-2010, 10:54 PM
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What kind of suspension helps u hook? I went on umi website and they have a drag package and street and strip package? Which 1 , they all have a handling package? Which one would help me hook on a daily driver?
Old 07-29-2010, 12:40 AM
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Any1? Handling package? Or which package helps u hook?


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