400rwtq daily driver. possible? how ? being reliable
#1
400rwtq daily driver. possible? how ? being reliable
So my goal is to have a street king with massive amounts of torque , is 400lb of tq doable? I don't want a large cam I want something which I can drive daily and break my tires loose if I wanted , also something I can drive or shift at 2k rpm. Ive looked at several options, and I need an opinion. 383? Or LE2 h/c/I. Or afr heads 180 and custom cam
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fast, reliable, cheap....You pick 2.
You can build something that would put down 450rw and you could DD it. It all comes down to how deep your pockets are.
If you build a cheap *** 355 and spin to to 7k to make some power it probably wont last. So carefully choose your parts and make sure you do the build right the first time instead of the 2nd. Its much cheaper that way.
AI or LE would both be great people to talk to, both are very proven and have good customer service. My money will goto LE but everyones different.
You can build something that would put down 450rw and you could DD it. It all comes down to how deep your pockets are.
If you build a cheap *** 355 and spin to to 7k to make some power it probably wont last. So carefully choose your parts and make sure you do the build right the first time instead of the 2nd. Its much cheaper that way.
AI or LE would both be great people to talk to, both are very proven and have good customer service. My money will goto LE but everyones different.
#6
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Look at spending about 10k for a reliable and fast 355, thats what mine was by the time i was done. i put out 390rwtq on an AI 200cc pkg so give them a call and tell them what you want. I did a 230/236 cam and i know i could have went bigger, but i want the motor to last a long time so revving it to 7000 is out of the question. Mine still makes power at 6500 though
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a 383 would be alot more street friendly at similar power levels as a 350/355. My car makes 416 rwtq with a baby cam 383 that almost sounds stock at idle, I can cruise in all gears at 1400 rpm without any bucking and still gets 23 mpg
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#12
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What are you talking about? It's right on their website under "Contact."
http://advancedinduction.com/AiContact.html
http://advancedinduction.com/AiContact.html
#15
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@ people thinking boost as economical and reliable.
My combo puts down exactly what you're looking for. Here's my spending break-down:
Forged short-block (including 4-bolt main block found online, forged rods, pistons, crank, assembly, machining, bearings, etc.) - $3800.
Ported Advanced Induction 200cc heads/cam/intake manifold - $2500.
Rockers, pushrods, lifters, timing chain - $550.
Exhaust (LPP headers) - $500.
Required bolt-ons (42# injectors, electric water pump, coil, plug wires, plugs, throttle body, etc.) - $1000.
Mail-order/dyno tune - $400.
Keep in mind, that's just for the motor. You'll need a trans, rear, gear, and suspension to handle the power. That HP is no good if you can't get it to the ground.
I should add that the motor drives like stock and is nice and is tolerable through a full Hooker cat-back. I would not hesitate to DD it, but due to other circumstances, it isn't possible (spool, slicks, skinnies, no wipers, you do the math...).
My combo puts down exactly what you're looking for. Here's my spending break-down:
Forged short-block (including 4-bolt main block found online, forged rods, pistons, crank, assembly, machining, bearings, etc.) - $3800.
Ported Advanced Induction 200cc heads/cam/intake manifold - $2500.
Rockers, pushrods, lifters, timing chain - $550.
Exhaust (LPP headers) - $500.
Required bolt-ons (42# injectors, electric water pump, coil, plug wires, plugs, throttle body, etc.) - $1000.
Mail-order/dyno tune - $400.
Keep in mind, that's just for the motor. You'll need a trans, rear, gear, and suspension to handle the power. That HP is no good if you can't get it to the ground.
I should add that the motor drives like stock and is nice and is tolerable through a full Hooker cat-back. I would not hesitate to DD it, but due to other circumstances, it isn't possible (spool, slicks, skinnies, no wipers, you do the math...).
#18
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I had Lingenfelter build my 383 in 1995. That was 15 years and 54,000 miles ago...In 2005 I had Eric Bradby find a bit more air with a little bit of hand porting to the heads and swapped in a small 226/234 Joe Overton cam to replace the really small LPE 211/219. The bottom end hasn't been touched since it was built in 1995. I could easily and have driven the car everywhere with no issues and its got great street manners...It probably got a 10 second pass in it if I can drop a wee bit off of my 60'...
The initial expense of an LPE 383 was not cheap, but you can't argue with a motor that I've flogged relentlessly for 15 years that's still going strong...
--Alan
The initial expense of an LPE 383 was not cheap, but you can't argue with a motor that I've flogged relentlessly for 15 years that's still going strong...
--Alan
#20
So my goal is to have a street king with massive amounts of torque , is 400lb of tq doable? I don't want a large cam I want something which I can drive daily and break my tires loose if I wanted , also something I can drive or shift at 2k rpm. Ive looked at several options, and I need an opinion. 383? Or LE2 h/c/I. Or afr heads 180 and custom cam
My old LE2/CC306 setup wouldn't operate under 1800 rpm, and driving around town I was spinning 2600 rpm just keeping up with other cars in traffic. Although in 4th, with the converter locked up it did cruise nicely around 2100 rpm.