idformula

So after replacing my plugs and wires, the fuel pump went bad, checked with a gauge, it misses like a pig, so I replaced the coil, the primary side had about twice the resistance, also had yellow spark at the plug, no change.

I broke down and took it to a mechanic, mainly because I'm not at home, and he said he was 99% sure it was the cap/rotor, so that pretty much confirms my suspicions.

The only other thought is the ICM. How do you test the ICM?

I'm really thinking that if it is the opti, I think I'm going to go with a delco opti, but my next question is, is there a high flow water pump for the lt1?

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

I hate to say it, but Autozone can test an ICM. Not necessarily conclusive though. Have them run the test 3-4 times in a row so it can get warm enough to fail if it's going to. This test will only show an obvious fault. My cheapo still passed but I felt better replacing it with a Delco D1986A (10483139, for 94-95 cars).

More details about the year/mileage/condition of the car? Why do you think you need a higher flowing water pump?

idformula

I don't think that I need a high flow water pump, just if their about the same price.
Its a 95 formula, just turned 106,000 miles, I don't think that the PO beat the car, just maintainence wasn't a concern for him, it had the original plugs and wires in the car, they were gaped about .075" and it really wouldn't supprise me if the same goes for the fuel filter.

Would the icm cause it to spit, miss and backfire?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

No one makes a "high flow water pump" that is cam-driven. You can pick up an electric water pump (CSR or Meziere) if you want which flow more at idle and less at higher RPMs.

idformula

Its not nessicary for the water pump, I don't have any cooling issues, on previous vehicals I've put high flow pumps in that's all.

Now how abour my question about the icm?

BlackBird87

iTrader: (6)

An icm could cause that its an easy part to take off so just have it tested to be sure but i dont think thats the problem. And to clearify it did miss before the plug and wire change right?

idformula

Not really, right before we changed the plugs and wires, it sat for about an hour, and started running shitty, spitting and sputtering, I shut it off and started it back up and it slowly cleared up, so it kinda started right before I changed them, but the fuel pump also went out, so I don't know which it was.

I'm gonna change the icm anyway, the coil was on its way out, I really doubt that's it though, before I start replacing expensive ****.

JAKEJR

I suspect this is going to fly in the face of your current train of thought, but experience and evidence from members on many other Forums proves it out.

Far too many skip right over the simple cause for what you're experiencing. What many tend to do is go right to replacing expensive parts - like the ICM, Opti, etc. - GUESSING that one of those is the cause.

We refer to those guys as Parts Changers. Throw a bunch of new parts at the problem and hope one of them fixes the problem.

I JUST WENT THROUGH THIS EXACT SAMETHING WITH MY SON AND HIS 96 LT1. AGAINST MY ADVICE, HE SPENT HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS CHANGING PARTS (02s, OPTI, COIL, etc.) with NO IMPROVEMENT. THEN it turns out all that was going on was a spark from a couple of spark wires arcing to ground.

Automotive Mechanics, on the other hand, pursue a step-by-step trouble shooting procedure to identify what's causing the problem.

Choice is yours.

Jake

idformula

I realize that I took it to a mechanic and he said he was sure it was the cap and rotor

Speedy

I think I agree with your mechanic.

JAKEJR

He based that on what, exactly? Or is he merely guessing, as so many tend to do?

Hell, we all can guess.

Don't be reluctant to ask lots of questions. The Devil's in the Details, my friend.

Jake

JAKEJR

So what made you jump on the band-wagon so quickly?

What do you know about this "mechanic" the rest of us don't?

Jake

idformula

Well I got the jegs wires, they are about twice the thickness of the original wires, the only spots it could be arc-ing is the #7 on the drivers side, its routed through the heat sheild, but the corragated tubing didn't fit in there. Also where the wires go under the alt to the passengers side. Other than that I made sure that they weren't touching any metal or anything.

idformula

You know what, now that I got the car home, I'm gonna take it to the shop where I know the mechanic, that guy in spokane did kinda seem like he was guessing a bit, so I might as well take it for a second opinion, like you said before I start replacing expensive ****.

Like the fuel pump, I didn't guess at that, l bought a gauge and checked the pressure, it was about 20 with or without the pressure regulator. I don't blindly replace parts, although I have misdiagnosed problems before, but I think everyone has done that before.
I appreciate you bringing up not just to throw parts at a problem, I know that, that's why I was asking this board if they all thought that that was infact the problem.

I may be only 21 but for not going to school I know quite a bit about wrenching on cars, but before a coupple of years ago I didn't really work on anything made after 1985 so fuel injection and all the assioated systems I don't know a lot about, but I'm learning.

Thanks for the advice everyone! Were all in this together.

idformula

So I'm a moron, the firing order was a little messed up, car runs like a raped ape now.
But my new question:
I notice the popping before 3000rpms is a lot more than it was before, and its only when I first start it up, hot or cold, on the decel of the motor, it will go pop, pop pop pop in rapid succession.
When I was testing to see what cylinder was missing, I couldn't figure it out, and when I shut it off, I smelt something burning, we looked under the car, and the cat was glowing nuclear red. I figure that was from it running so rich, but could this mean that my cat is getting plugged up?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

A cat will glow red when it's running lean, not rich. It's very possible your cat is clogged.

ChandlerMotorsports

iTrader: (3)

If its your cap and rotor we sell them for about $28 shipped. We've sold close to two thousand of those on top of the thousand optisparks we've sold. I think I still have them in stock with the cover, which makes it closer to the GM kit which sells for $125. Brass terminals.

I had someone buy an MSD the other day and I told them to put them side by side. He sent the MSD back.

The link below has the cap and rotor purchase options in it.

idformula

Reall? It definatly wasn't running lean that day, we could smell the gas so bad that when I took it to the mechanic in spokane my friend said she thought she got high from the gas fumes.

JAKEJR

GREAT! Glad to see that you tested the fuel pressure before throwing a new pump at the engine. I didn't know you'd done that when you wrote "checked with a gauge".

You're going about it the right way; I just wish I could convince my son (who's 23) into doing things the same way. Test/diagnose first; buy needed parts next.

Guess I'm still steaming after going through several weeks with trying to diagnose his engine woes and with him being so insistent on throwing parts are the problem. HUNDREDS OF WASTED DOLLARS! Fortunately not mine though.

Jake

idformula

So my ignition woes continue, driving along today on my trip, car has been running great, I had the order on the cap messed up, oops, anyway all of a sudden it stops running alongside the freeway, and won't start. No ses light, missing, all of a sudden it quit running. My sis's boyfriend cam and got me, we tested for spark, no spark at the coil, now I think its the icm, but he thinks the opti went out and he also thinks that the opti controls the spark, but who's right here?