fuel pump hatch door
08-20-2010, 10:25 PM
#21
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This might be a little off the subject, but has anyone been able to swap out the fule pump from underneath, without cutting the floor? If so, I'd appreciate it if you could tell me exactly how much stuff you had to remove/disconnect in order to do it.....
I consider myself a fairly compitent 'driveway mechanic', been wrenching on cars pretty seriously, since the late 60s. The f/p on my '96 Z-28 had gotten a little noisy earlier this summer, so after pondering and researching the job for a while, I decided to tackle it. My car is by no means an old 'hoopty', and it isn't a track car, so I didn't really want to cut up the floor.
This past Wednesday, I got the car up on the jackstands, pulled the muffler, the panhard bar and its upper support, got the exhaust pipe and heat shields out of the way, removed the shocks and sway bar links, and the rear tires.
Bright and early yesterday, I crawled back under the car, unbolted the brake line "y" adapter for some extra room to drop the axle, lowered the axle, dropped the tank straps, supported the tank, wresteled with the fuel line connections for quite a while, as they're not easily reached, but finally got them off, and then tried to remove the tank....I can't get it out....There just isn't enough room!
Does the rear axle have to be disconnected (drive shaft off, LCAs unbolted, etc) and moved out from under the car, in order to be able to twist the tank out??
As I said, I really don't want to cut up the car........
Any tips would be greatly appreciated, as I'm about ready to "send it out" to get this done, as my creaky old azz is sore from all of the lifting and stretching I did yesterday, but I know it will be $$$$.
I consider myself a fairly compitent 'driveway mechanic', been wrenching on cars pretty seriously, since the late 60s. The f/p on my '96 Z-28 had gotten a little noisy earlier this summer, so after pondering and researching the job for a while, I decided to tackle it. My car is by no means an old 'hoopty', and it isn't a track car, so I didn't really want to cut up the floor.
This past Wednesday, I got the car up on the jackstands, pulled the muffler, the panhard bar and its upper support, got the exhaust pipe and heat shields out of the way, removed the shocks and sway bar links, and the rear tires.
Bright and early yesterday, I crawled back under the car, unbolted the brake line "y" adapter for some extra room to drop the axle, lowered the axle, dropped the tank straps, supported the tank, wresteled with the fuel line connections for quite a while, as they're not easily reached, but finally got them off, and then tried to remove the tank....I can't get it out....There just isn't enough room!
Does the rear axle have to be disconnected (drive shaft off, LCAs unbolted, etc) and moved out from under the car, in order to be able to twist the tank out??
As I said, I really don't want to cut up the car........
Any tips would be greatly appreciated, as I'm about ready to "send it out" to get this done, as my creaky old azz is sore from all of the lifting and stretching I did yesterday, but I know it will be $$$$.
08-20-2010, 10:32 PM
#23
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Here is the write-up I did on my trap door mod. This was on a 1997 LT1 Camaro SS
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-mod-pics.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-mod-pics.html
08-21-2010, 12:12 PM
#27
I retired a couple of years ago, and have since taken on a part time job driving a delivery truck for a local auto parts store. Because of that, I've gotten to know most of the guys in the local repair shops. There's one shop where the guys are a little older, do good work, and work on some high end cars. I was in there yesterday, and telling them about my dilemma. The owner said, "We've done a couple of them over the years, and yes, you have to drop the rear end down so far, you'd never get it done with the car on stands. Don't cut the floor, just bring it in, don't worry about it, and we'll take care of you".....
It's going in next week.
08-21-2010, 02:53 PM
#28
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That's why I didn't simply run and break out the air tools, when I decided to change out my pump. Furthermore, although it's hopefully a very slim chance that it would actually happen, somebody could rear-end you fairly hard, and a suspension part got sent up through the tank, you could have a inferno licking at your trunk area. That could potentially get inside the car, and it wouldn't be good....
I retired a couple of years ago, and have since taken on a part time job driving a delivery truck for a local auto parts store. Because of that, I've gotten to know most of the guys in the local repair shops. There's one shop where the guys are a little older, do good work, and work on some high end cars. I was in there yesterday, and telling them about my dilemma. The owner said, "We've done a couple of them over the years, and yes, you have to drop the rear end down so far, you'd never get it done with the car on stands. Don't cut the floor, just bring it in, don't worry about it, and we'll take care of you".....
It's going in next week.
I retired a couple of years ago, and have since taken on a part time job driving a delivery truck for a local auto parts store. Because of that, I've gotten to know most of the guys in the local repair shops. There's one shop where the guys are a little older, do good work, and work on some high end cars. I was in there yesterday, and telling them about my dilemma. The owner said, "We've done a couple of them over the years, and yes, you have to drop the rear end down so far, you'd never get it done with the car on stands. Don't cut the floor, just bring it in, don't worry about it, and we'll take care of you".....
It's going in next week.
of course they want you to just bring it in, they want your money
....you might want to get a quote before you just take it in..
a friend of mine just replaced a fuel pump in a volvo wagon, same problem, he had to drop the independent rear suspension rearend, and drop the tank to replace the fuel pump.. charged the customer $500 including the pump... his customer was very happy with what he charged, another place was wanting $750 to do it.. you couldnt do the volvo wagon with a jack & jackstands for sure..
08-21-2010, 03:17 PM
#29
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That's why I didn't simply run and break out the air tools, when I decided to change out my pump. Furthermore, although it's hopefully a very slim chance that it would actually happen, somebody could rear-end you fairly hard, and a suspension part got sent up through the tank, you could have a inferno licking at your trunk area. That could potentially get inside the car, and it wouldn't be good....
I retired a couple of years ago, and have since taken on a part time job driving a delivery truck for a local auto parts store. Because of that, I've gotten to know most of the guys in the local repair shops. There's one shop where the guys are a little older, do good work, and work on some high end cars. I was in there yesterday, and telling them about my dilemma. The owner said, "We've done a couple of them over the years, and yes, you have to drop the rear end down so far, you'd never get it done with the car on stands. Don't cut the floor, just bring it in, don't worry about it, and we'll take care of you".....
It's going in next week.
I retired a couple of years ago, and have since taken on a part time job driving a delivery truck for a local auto parts store. Because of that, I've gotten to know most of the guys in the local repair shops. There's one shop where the guys are a little older, do good work, and work on some high end cars. I was in there yesterday, and telling them about my dilemma. The owner said, "We've done a couple of them over the years, and yes, you have to drop the rear end down so far, you'd never get it done with the car on stands. Don't cut the floor, just bring it in, don't worry about it, and we'll take care of you".....
It's going in next week.
08-22-2010, 09:22 AM
#31
I was hesitant as first but I used the trap door method about a year ago when I swapped in a larger fuel pump. It was the best thing I ever did because that pump actually died on me a couple months later. I just unscrewed the door and stuck the new pump in. I'm searching all over google to find the cover I purchased, there is a speed shop that sells a kit that includes sheet metal screws, double sided tape and a powdercoated cover. If I find it I will be sure to post it up.
08-22-2010, 09:28 AM
#32
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These cars should have come with one, some cars do now Ive heard.
One of the best mods I know of for these cars. I cant believe your worried about the structural integrity that much. If you put down the same material back down whats there to worry about?
One of the best mods I know of for these cars. I cant believe your worried about the structural integrity that much. If you put down the same material back down whats there to worry about?
08-22-2010, 11:19 AM
#34
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I have to replace my fuel pump. The last time we did it, we didn't drop the rear end and it was kind of a pain in the butt, to say the least. This time I'm planning to drop the rear end. I might be super ****, but I just have a problem cutting a hole in my car. I also want to get my fuel tank cleaned, so the rear end will have to come off anyway.
08-22-2010, 12:34 PM
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I dont get this because there are holes cut all in your car when they come from the factory, they just did a good job on them. I'll bet if the car came with an access panel from the factory you wouldnt mind it at all. Just make it look factory and I dont see the difference.
08-22-2010, 03:34 PM
#38
I dropped the axle and did it that way. it very simple to do and can easily be done with jack stands and a jack. it doesn't take more then a few hours to do lol. un bolt the shocks, lca, panhard bar, sway bar, torq arm, brake lines, and unbolt the drive shaft.
while it was out i repainted every thing and put all new seals and fluid in every thing. super easy to do with it out. you guys make it sound like you change out the fuel pump once a year LOL. you change the fuel pump about once every 100k unless your unlucky. damn mine last 140k and i only pulled it at that becuase i had the axle out.
and ill be happy to do it again when it needs a new pump.
while it was out i repainted every thing and put all new seals and fluid in every thing. super easy to do with it out. you guys make it sound like you change out the fuel pump once a year LOL. you change the fuel pump about once every 100k unless your unlucky. damn mine last 140k and i only pulled it at that becuase i had the axle out.
and ill be happy to do it again when it needs a new pump.
08-22-2010, 04:20 PM
#39
Agreed, it should have had a access panel from the factory. Mine now does. If you still have the factory sound deadener under the carpet, you fab a cover and secure it with screws or whatever with rtv or a weatherstrip type seal and cover it back up. You think someone buying the car down the road would pull the carpet up back there anyways, and you cant see it from under the car because its ABOVE the tank. In short, who gives a rats a$$ about it, as long as its sealed in some way. Noise is not a concern since you'll be covering it back up. This thread is really too long for what its about. Unless you have a show car, get over it, its sheet metal no one will ever see.
Not cutting the trap door, would be like saying you're not going to weld subframe connectors in, because its altering the car, which im sure many of you have done far worse to your cars.
Not cutting the trap door, would be like saying you're not going to weld subframe connectors in, because its altering the car, which im sure many of you have done far worse to your cars.
08-22-2010, 04:21 PM
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Some of us DO change it out once a year or more...these things go out and if it happens 3 times in a row, thats a BITCH to do...it took me 3 hours to do my access hatch in my 400rwhp LT1. No added road noise...no problems with structural integrity...no water getting in the car...its covered so fire is not an issue and if your fuel tank is on fire....that sheet metal isnt gonna stop a DAMN thing...do you have ANY IDEA how hot fuel burns when it ignites like a tank would??? Sheet metal would be the equivalent of cardboard in that case....
My fuel pump messed up shortly after I did the install and I had to pull it out...took me 30 minutes. I am THOROUGHLY pleased. AND if someone tried to sell me an F-Body with the trap door mod already done, I would THANK them and be happy that I dont have to worry about that crap!
Also NOONE will see it or know its there UNLESS you SHOW/TELL them....its covered by carpet...doesnt change the way the car looks...
Use common sense people and think before you act like cutting the trunk is so bad...It cost me 25 bucks to do not counting the pump....If you pay to have someone drop your tank, then good for you, I will spend the money I saved on something better for my car than LABOR costs.......
BY THE WAY?...did that mechanic TELL you 150 for the swap????? Cause if not I HIGHLY doubt that will be the cost...It will take a few hours to do and the going rate for MOST shops is aroung 80 bucks an hour not countins any parts it will take, snage they may hit, etc...I would lean closer to the 300 dollar range honestly...
My fuel pump messed up shortly after I did the install and I had to pull it out...took me 30 minutes. I am THOROUGHLY pleased. AND if someone tried to sell me an F-Body with the trap door mod already done, I would THANK them and be happy that I dont have to worry about that crap!
Also NOONE will see it or know its there UNLESS you SHOW/TELL them....its covered by carpet...doesnt change the way the car looks...
Use common sense people and think before you act like cutting the trunk is so bad...It cost me 25 bucks to do not counting the pump....If you pay to have someone drop your tank, then good for you, I will spend the money I saved on something better for my car than LABOR costs.......
BY THE WAY?...did that mechanic TELL you 150 for the swap????? Cause if not I HIGHLY doubt that will be the cost...It will take a few hours to do and the going rate for MOST shops is aroung 80 bucks an hour not countins any parts it will take, snage they may hit, etc...I would lean closer to the 300 dollar range honestly...