fuel pump hatch door
fuel pump hatch door So instead of dropping the fuel tank to put in a new fuel pump, im thinking of creating a opening and door in the hatch area behind the rear seats. has anybody done this? got any pics? and can anybody tell me exactly where the fuel pump is by measuring so i dont have to take it out? I'm thinking of carefully cutting a piece off with a cut-off tool to have access to the pump and getting a larger piece of sheetmetal to overlap it and somehow fasten it down. ideas?? pics??
Yes, this has been done many times. You can look in this section, you can also look in the Fueling section. It is not rocket science, and it gives you easy access for the future.
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Lazy way
i think im gonna redo mine to look like the merv's, last time got bloody for me when i tried to disconnect those 2 fuel lines that are hiding under my rectagular f.p. access door...
This might be a little off the subject, but has anyone been able to swap out the fule pump from underneath, without cutting the floor? If so, I'd appreciate it if you could tell me exactly how much stuff you had to remove/disconnect in order to do it.....
I consider myself a fairly compitent 'driveway mechanic', been wrenching on cars pretty seriously, since the late 60s. The f/p on my '96 Z-28 had gotten a little noisy earlier this summer, so after pondering and researching the job for a while, I decided to tackle it. My car is by no means an old 'hoopty', and it isn't a track car, so I didn't really want to cut up the floor.
This past Wednesday, I got the car up on the jackstands, pulled the muffler, the panhard bar and its upper support, got the exhaust pipe and heat shields out of the way, removed the shocks and sway bar links, and the rear tires.
Bright and early yesterday, I crawled back under the car, unbolted the brake line "y" adapter for some extra room to drop the axle, lowered the axle, dropped the tank straps, supported the tank, wresteled with the fuel line connections for quite a while, as they're not easily reached, but finally got them off, and then tried to remove the tank....I can't get it out....There just isn't enough room!
Does the rear axle have to be disconnected (drive shaft off, LCAs unbolted, etc) and moved out from under the car, in order to be able to twist the tank out??
As I said, I really don't want to cut up the car........
Any tips would be greatly appreciated, as I'm about ready to "send it out" to get this done, as my creaky old azz is sore from all of the lifting and stretching I did yesterday, but I know it will be $$$$.
I consider myself a fairly compitent 'driveway mechanic', been wrenching on cars pretty seriously, since the late 60s. The f/p on my '96 Z-28 had gotten a little noisy earlier this summer, so after pondering and researching the job for a while, I decided to tackle it. My car is by no means an old 'hoopty', and it isn't a track car, so I didn't really want to cut up the floor.
This past Wednesday, I got the car up on the jackstands, pulled the muffler, the panhard bar and its upper support, got the exhaust pipe and heat shields out of the way, removed the shocks and sway bar links, and the rear tires.
Bright and early yesterday, I crawled back under the car, unbolted the brake line "y" adapter for some extra room to drop the axle, lowered the axle, dropped the tank straps, supported the tank, wresteled with the fuel line connections for quite a while, as they're not easily reached, but finally got them off, and then tried to remove the tank....I can't get it out....There just isn't enough room!
Does the rear axle have to be disconnected (drive shaft off, LCAs unbolted, etc) and moved out from under the car, in order to be able to twist the tank out??
As I said, I really don't want to cut up the car........
Any tips would be greatly appreciated, as I'm about ready to "send it out" to get this done, as my creaky old azz is sore from all of the lifting and stretching I did yesterday, but I know it will be $$$$.
No way it can be done from underneath unless the tank is dropped which requires the diff. to be dropped as well. Just do it yourself and cut a door. You won't regret it. Use tin snips instead of a cut off wheel. It's quicker, quieter and less messy.
Last edited by SS RRR; Aug 20, 2010 at 10:05 AM.
I used The Merv's method, the "L" let me get to those connectors easily. I put a pair of hinges on the part I cut out and reused it, sealing the edges with silicone. Worked great, and gave me easy access when one of the lines came loose last year.
Assuming you cover the hole once it's been cut, there's no additional road noise.
A while back Ed Wright posted up about the trap door mod,in short he said he welded the hole back up!
Personally,i find the mod conveinent but how often do you have to access a fuel pump? no answer required!
I don't mind a properly done mod but i have seen some seriously bad "HACK JOBs" the mod done above and many others are nicely done. Maybe at some point i will do this mod................
Personally,i find the mod conveinent but how often do you have to access a fuel pump? no answer required!
I don't mind a properly done mod but i have seen some seriously bad "HACK JOBs" the mod done above and many others are nicely done. Maybe at some point i will do this mod................
I have done it on my car, and there is no way i would ever do it the other way again. You can spend days covered in rust and gas on your back swearing and breaking bolts, or you can spend about a hour and 15 minuets start to finish without ever touching a jack. Although my car will never be at the Barret Jackson auto auction either, but i don't want a toy that's to pretty to play with..