fuel pump hatch door
08-23-2010, 08:28 AM
#61
If you dont want to cut a hole, thats fine, you can pay someone like myself twice as much to do it your way and hope it doesnt happen again. If its more of a racecar/toy, the point is to make it easy to work on. Thats all were doing,.....what GM should have done.
08-23-2010, 08:42 AM
#62
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I've never dropped the rear-end in this car, or any car for that matter. How difficult is it? I'm pretty sure I can take it apart. I'm guessing the hard part will be getting it back together.
08-23-2010, 01:16 PM
#63
In my 25 years of f-body ownership i never had to pull the rear end out to remove the tank!
You will need to remove all heat shields,unbolt ex. hangers,unbolt the shocks from rear.put car on jackstands allowing the body to be elevated and the rear axle to drop to its lowest point.
At this point you should take a quick break from under the car and remove the gas cap then unscrew the plastic liner shouding the filler neck.
Then unbolt the straps holding the tank in place, slide tank to the pass. side at an angle then rotate the tank backwards she should come all the way out at this point you may need to bend the neck a bit...
All in all this can be completed in a 2 hr time frame depending on how you work fastest i have ever done it was 45min air tools and a 4-post lift
You will need to remove all heat shields,unbolt ex. hangers,unbolt the shocks from rear.put car on jackstands allowing the body to be elevated and the rear axle to drop to its lowest point.
At this point you should take a quick break from under the car and remove the gas cap then unscrew the plastic liner shouding the filler neck.
Then unbolt the straps holding the tank in place, slide tank to the pass. side at an angle then rotate the tank backwards she should come all the way out at this point you may need to bend the neck a bit...
All in all this can be completed in a 2 hr time frame depending on how you work fastest i have ever done it was 45min air tools and a 4-post lift
08-23-2010, 01:38 PM
#64
TECH Fanatic
In my 25 years of f-body ownership i never had to pull the rear end out to remove the tank!
You will need to remove all heat shields,unbolt ex. hangers,unbolt the shocks from rear.put car on jackstands allowing the body to be elevated and the rear axle to drop to its lowest point.
At this point you should take a quick break from under the car and remove the gas cap then unscrew the plastic liner shouding the filler neck.
Then unbolt the straps holding the tank in place, slide tank to the pass. side at an angle then rotate the tank backwards she should come all the way out at this point you may need to bend the neck a bit...
All in all this can be completed in a 2 hr time frame depending on how you work fastest i have ever done it was 45min air tools and a 4-post lift
You will need to remove all heat shields,unbolt ex. hangers,unbolt the shocks from rear.put car on jackstands allowing the body to be elevated and the rear axle to drop to its lowest point.
At this point you should take a quick break from under the car and remove the gas cap then unscrew the plastic liner shouding the filler neck.
Then unbolt the straps holding the tank in place, slide tank to the pass. side at an angle then rotate the tank backwards she should come all the way out at this point you may need to bend the neck a bit...
All in all this can be completed in a 2 hr time frame depending on how you work fastest i have ever done it was 45min air tools and a 4-post lift
08-23-2010, 04:43 PM
#65
In my 25 years of f-body ownership i never had to pull the rear end out to remove the tank!
You will need to remove all heat shields,unbolt ex. hangers,unbolt the shocks from rear.put car on jackstands allowing the body to be elevated and the rear axle to drop to its lowest point.
At this point you should take a quick break from under the car and remove the gas cap then unscrew the plastic liner shouding the filler neck.
Then unbolt the straps holding the tank in place, slide tank to the pass. side at an angle then rotate the tank backwards she should come all the way out at this point you may need to bend the neck a bit...
All in all this can be completed in a 2 hr time frame depending on how you work fastest i have ever done it was 45min air tools and a 4-post lift
You will need to remove all heat shields,unbolt ex. hangers,unbolt the shocks from rear.put car on jackstands allowing the body to be elevated and the rear axle to drop to its lowest point.
At this point you should take a quick break from under the car and remove the gas cap then unscrew the plastic liner shouding the filler neck.
Then unbolt the straps holding the tank in place, slide tank to the pass. side at an angle then rotate the tank backwards she should come all the way out at this point you may need to bend the neck a bit...
All in all this can be completed in a 2 hr time frame depending on how you work fastest i have ever done it was 45min air tools and a 4-post lift
I did all of that, but the tank was still hung up by the filler neck. I had the rear axle as low as I could, without disconnecting the brake hose from the fitting at the floorboard. There just wasn't enough room to swing the tank out.
Now, if I had gotten the car a few inches higher up on the stands, before I started this job, maybe I would have been more enthused about disconnecting the driveshaft, brake line, and rolling the rear completely out from under the car, which definitely would have provided the room.....
08-24-2010, 10:00 PM
#67
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ok now i got the info to do it (im not worried about any damn suspension parts ripping a hole through my tank or road noise or structural integrity) i just need to get some recommendations on a fuel pump. someone said on here the walbro 255 was $130 but are they reliable? it seems they go out quite often.
08-24-2010, 11:15 PM
#70
The Racetronix plug and play harness is designed to remove all fuel pump load from the factory pump circuits while providing the pump with a new heavy-duty power source. The Racetronix harness gets its power directly from the alternator's battery terminal. The voltage at the alternator’s output is typically 1-2 volts higher than at the battery when the motor is running (high charge/load conditions and WOT). This means that your Walbro high-performance pump can provide as much as 20% more fuel in some cases. The Racetronix harness uses high-quality automotive-grade wire which is resistant to oil, gas, heat and rot. The main length of wire in the Racetronix harness is ten-gauge stranded copper. This is three to four gauges thicker than factory wire which helps reduce resistive power loss to almost non-existent levels. This helps improve pump performance by as much as another 10-20%. High-quality weatherproof fuse holders and 40 amp silver-contact relays are used for maximum reliability. The Racetronix harness has factory-type connectors which plug directly into your fuel pump module/sender so no cutting or splicing is required. The Racetronix harness has a redundant ground upgrade as it is necessary to improve the harness on the negative side of the pump's supply as well.
08-24-2010, 11:26 PM
#71
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http://www.racetronix.biz/customkiti...c=RFPK-003&eq=
is this it? $208 doesnt seem like a bad deal at all
is this it? $208 doesnt seem like a bad deal at all
08-28-2010, 03:13 PM
#72
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http://www.racetronix.biz/customkiti...c=RFPK-003&eq=
is this it? $208 doesnt seem like a bad deal at all
is this it? $208 doesnt seem like a bad deal at all
Walbro is the most reputable company for fuel pumps, and the Racetronix seems pretty expensive. But I know many guys have used both brands with great sucess
08-28-2010, 03:50 PM
#73
