Seafoaming my car tommorow.
#1
Seafoaming my car tommorow.
I plan on seafoaming the T/A tommorow because id like to see what i get out of it carbon-wise if i even get any. Im using the instructions off this thread http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/how-to...arbon-buildup/
Has anyone else done it to their LT1's? Ive heard possibilities of spark plug fouling. And I plan on running it for 100 miles then changing the oil. Just want to double check before I run the risk of messing something up, ive never seafoamed a car. Thanks
Has anyone else done it to their LT1's? Ive heard possibilities of spark plug fouling. And I plan on running it for 100 miles then changing the oil. Just want to double check before I run the risk of messing something up, ive never seafoamed a car. Thanks
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when was the last time you did plugs? and yes it can affect performance. They really arnt that hard unless you have stock manifolds. I didn't read you're guide as its pretty straight forward for all cars, but you're putting a bottle in the gas tank aswell right?
#7
Yeah. And im not sure i bought the car in march and there are TR55's in it. But It sat all winter so its probably a good idea. And I knew bad plugs would affect the performance, what i meant is will i notice it when the seafoam is in there?. Because yes, I am putting a bottle in the gas tank
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#9
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Watch out, there are some serious Anti-Seafoam people here...
I used it when I got the car, followed those instructions and had no issues what so ever.
Other guys swear by that MCCC stuff, but I've never used it, I might try it just to see if it gets any more out, mine barely smoked when I seafoam'd it at 56,000.
I used it when I got the car, followed those instructions and had no issues what so ever.
Other guys swear by that MCCC stuff, but I've never used it, I might try it just to see if it gets any more out, mine barely smoked when I seafoam'd it at 56,000.
#10
Ahh man see that spooks me a bit when you say that. But im confident that itll be fine. The car has 175000 on it, however i do not think its the original engine because the cars a 95 and it has a crank position sensor hookup, which some of us know was only put on LT1 cars from 96 on up
#13
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You can use Sea Foam if you want....but its a JOKE if you want to clean your top end properly.
To do it properly you need to use a REAL Top End cleaner that is made for cleaning a top end. Sea Foam is NOT meant for cleaning top ends.
If you get lucky...you won't damage your engine beyond repair. Be careful.
There's plenty of info on MCCC and why you should NOT use Sea Foam to clean your top end. Its pathetic, it might clean one or two cylinders half *** and it does absolutely 100% NOTHING to clean the runners in the intake. Hilarious.
Also.....cleaning your top end and changing the oil afterwards......have nothing to do with each other. There is no reason to change your oil after a top end cleaning. I don't know what cheeseball started that myth. You also do not have to change the plugs, they "should" be cleaned in the process. There's literally a handful of people in the past 6 years that have had a fouled plug(s) after a top end clean. Also, very few have had 02 sensor problems afterwards as well.
NOTE*****Regardless of what you use though.......after you let it sit for 2 hours, or however long you let it sit, drive it like your grandmother for at least 15-20 minutes to let it all clear out. Do some very gradual long accelerations up to about 70-80mph WITHOUT any missing, hesitation or detonation. If you can do that 2-3 times up to about 70-80 mph and have none of that, and it is very smooth throuhgout.....then you're good to go WOT. If you do it too soon, and have detonation or missing, you could blow a head gasket, or worse, damage the engine much more seriously.
.
To do it properly you need to use a REAL Top End cleaner that is made for cleaning a top end. Sea Foam is NOT meant for cleaning top ends.
If you get lucky...you won't damage your engine beyond repair. Be careful.
There's plenty of info on MCCC and why you should NOT use Sea Foam to clean your top end. Its pathetic, it might clean one or two cylinders half *** and it does absolutely 100% NOTHING to clean the runners in the intake. Hilarious.
Also.....cleaning your top end and changing the oil afterwards......have nothing to do with each other. There is no reason to change your oil after a top end cleaning. I don't know what cheeseball started that myth. You also do not have to change the plugs, they "should" be cleaned in the process. There's literally a handful of people in the past 6 years that have had a fouled plug(s) after a top end clean. Also, very few have had 02 sensor problems afterwards as well.
NOTE*****Regardless of what you use though.......after you let it sit for 2 hours, or however long you let it sit, drive it like your grandmother for at least 15-20 minutes to let it all clear out. Do some very gradual long accelerations up to about 70-80mph WITHOUT any missing, hesitation or detonation. If you can do that 2-3 times up to about 70-80 mph and have none of that, and it is very smooth throuhgout.....then you're good to go WOT. If you do it too soon, and have detonation or missing, you could blow a head gasket, or worse, damage the engine much more seriously.
.
#16
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I am also an anti seafoam guy. IMO the best way to clean the top/bottom/fuel system is this.
Top End- Use MCCC as stated by LS6427
Bottom End-Use an engine flush done by a shop. At my work (Sears) we would pour 4 quarts of cleaner and 1.5 quarts of oil in the engine, add a new filter and let it idle for 5 minutes. The new filter catches all the sludge/crap in your engine. Then drain the oil/cleaner out and add oil in. Costs around 40 bucks to do on top of an oil change. The company has been doing it for about 2 years now with no issues at all.
Fuel System- Seafoam/Fuel filter. Many people neglect the fuel filter or just dont think about it at all. But changing it every few thousand miles is a smart thing to do along with using the seafoam. I cut my fuel filter open at 5K and it was surprisingly dirty (i only use shell/chevron). So replace it and fill up your car with good gas and add a can of seafoam to the tank.
All of this with an oil change should set you back around 100 bucks (80 for the cleaner/oil change, 15 for the seafoam/filter and 5-8 for the MCCC)
Top End- Use MCCC as stated by LS6427
Bottom End-Use an engine flush done by a shop. At my work (Sears) we would pour 4 quarts of cleaner and 1.5 quarts of oil in the engine, add a new filter and let it idle for 5 minutes. The new filter catches all the sludge/crap in your engine. Then drain the oil/cleaner out and add oil in. Costs around 40 bucks to do on top of an oil change. The company has been doing it for about 2 years now with no issues at all.
Fuel System- Seafoam/Fuel filter. Many people neglect the fuel filter or just dont think about it at all. But changing it every few thousand miles is a smart thing to do along with using the seafoam. I cut my fuel filter open at 5K and it was surprisingly dirty (i only use shell/chevron). So replace it and fill up your car with good gas and add a can of seafoam to the tank.
All of this with an oil change should set you back around 100 bucks (80 for the cleaner/oil change, 15 for the seafoam/filter and 5-8 for the MCCC)
#18
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yes thats right, be sure you get the foam and not the liquid. Iv used the liquid and didnt notice a difference. The foam seems like a good product but I have yet to test it.
#20
I actually think both Sea Foam and MCCC have their merits in the right application. Personally I used the MCCC cleaner and had great results. My idle is significantly cleaner after using the MCCC.