wrong crank hub?
A hub installer tool.
A homemade hub installer tool, consisting of HARDENED 7/16-20 threaded rod, hardened washers and nuts.
or my personal favorite, a 16oz soft dead blow hammer...
People will tell you all kinds of things that "could" happen from installing it with the hammer, but I havent heard of anyone actually having a problem they could trace to that.
I don't mean savagely beating the tar out of it, but using enough force to fully seat it. Never been a problem for me and I've done it several times.
Your call
A homemade hub installer tool, consisting of HARDENED 7/16-20 threaded rod, hardened washers and nuts.
or my personal favorite, a 16oz soft dead blow hammer...
People will tell you all kinds of things that "could" happen from installing it with the hammer, but I havent heard of anyone actually having a problem they could trace to that.
I don't mean savagely beating the tar out of it, but using enough force to fully seat it. Never been a problem for me and I've done it several times.
Your call
I'm all for using the correct tool or a homemade one, but I think a hammer would be okay on the lt1 since it doesn't use a 2 piece steel or iron dampner that is bonded together with elastomer. I think that is why beating them on is frowned upon so. It can really loosen that bond and send outer rings flying.
Just trade the guy that posted & youll be better off if its that confusing The only reason to keep the 96-97 cover is to do a 24x efi conversion Hell lots of 96-97 guys convert to the 95 style & Beatin **** on with a Hammer isnt really smart USE THE Correct TOOL for the job Even the all-thread & washers is a better Idea than beatin **** on anything Brains before Brawn while working on your motor The hub center is easy to mushroom The last idiot that owned my T/A did that already Good thing I bought the SFI approved balancer LoL
Last edited by warriorcustoms; Aug 4, 2012 at 11:18 PM.
