Replacing k member with engine still in the car
09-22-2010, 08:29 AM
#1
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Replacing k member with engine still in the car Im needing to go with a tubular K member to make a single front mount turbo kit work. A tech at the speed shop in town said you can put an iron rod (or use a strut tower brace if you have one) across the strut tower braces and use a chain to keep the engine in place while removing the k member.
Has anyone tried doing this before?
Has anyone tried doing this before?
09-22-2010, 09:25 AM
#3
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Don't think I would use a STB to hold a lt1 engine in place. I would not trust anything other than a cherry picker. Or drop it like has allready been mentioned.
hth
andy schuck
hth
andy schuck
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lordrazo (08-19-2022)
09-22-2010, 09:34 AM
#5
I just replaced the k-member on a Caramo in my driveway. Jack up the front of the car and toss her on jack stands or keep her low on a lift. Then place a large piece of wood under the oil pan and tranny to hold them up and pull out the K-Member. Didn't take me very long at all.
09-22-2010, 09:36 PM
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I replaced my k-mem with engine in the car using a engine hoist and a stand under the trans. the tool truck sells a sliding brace that is like a strut brace to accomplish this too....even has lighting...was easier than pulling motor/trans all out
09-22-2010, 10:13 PM
#7
Stop into a Home Depot and get some 1-5/8 inch unistrut and a pack of those orange ratchet straps.
Cut the unistrut to sit across the engine sitting on the strut towers. Position it so it won't slide out.
Wrap the ratchet straps around a tube of your headers, one on each side to the strut. You don't need to really crank down too tight on them. Don't gorilla them.
Drop your K-Frame. The engine will stay put. I've seen it done and did it twice myself. Very easy, very safe.
Works like a charm.
Cut the unistrut to sit across the engine sitting on the strut towers. Position it so it won't slide out.
Wrap the ratchet straps around a tube of your headers, one on each side to the strut. You don't need to really crank down too tight on them. Don't gorilla them.
Drop your K-Frame. The engine will stay put. I've seen it done and did it twice myself. Very easy, very safe.
Works like a charm.
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09-22-2010, 10:41 PM
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Stop into a Home Depot and get some 1-5/8 inch unistrut and a pack of those orange ratchet straps.
Cut the unistrut to sit across the engine sitting on the strut towers. Position it so it won't slide out.
Wrap the ratchet straps around a tube of your headers, one on each side to the strut. You don't need to really crank down too tight on them. Don't gorilla them.
Drop your K-Frame. The engine will stay put. I've seen it done and did it twice myself. Very easy, very safe.
Works like a charm.
Cut the unistrut to sit across the engine sitting on the strut towers. Position it so it won't slide out.
Wrap the ratchet straps around a tube of your headers, one on each side to the strut. You don't need to really crank down too tight on them. Don't gorilla them.
Drop your K-Frame. The engine will stay put. I've seen it done and did it twice myself. Very easy, very safe.
Works like a charm.
When i do my longtubes i had the idea to totally drop to the k member to make it really easy. And since i have a ton of unistrut laying around and a lift this might be the way to go
09-23-2010, 08:20 AM
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One of the techs in the shop where I work actually has a tool that is designed to serve the function being discussed here. I think it came from snap on. Basically it is a long steel bar and has feet that can be adjusted to sit on the strut tower area or along the inner fender lips- depending on the car and how the engine is positioned. For attaching to the engine it as adjustable J hooks and some short chains. Needless to say it doesn't get used much but it is pretty cool for what its worth.
09-23-2010, 12:22 PM
#12
One of the techs in the shop where I work actually has a tool that is designed to serve the function being discussed here. I think it came from snap on. Basically it is a long steel bar and has feet that can be adjusted to sit on the strut tower area or along the inner fender lips- depending on the car and how the engine is positioned. For attaching to the engine it as adjustable J hooks and some short chains. Needless to say it doesn't get used much but it is pretty cool for what its worth.
09-23-2010, 01:48 PM
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One of the techs in the shop where I work actually has a tool that is designed to serve the function being discussed here. I think it came from snap on. Basically it is a long steel bar and has feet that can be adjusted to sit on the strut tower area or along the inner fender lips- depending on the car and how the engine is positioned. For attaching to the engine it as adjustable J hooks and some short chains. Needless to say it doesn't get used much but it is pretty cool for what its worth.
cool and expensive....they're mainly used for trans work on FWD cars....usually the shop provides them (any that I've worked at did anyway) because they aren't cheap. But it is made specifically to hold an engine s described....gotta love snap-on...making money off some back yard wrenches bright idea....
Thats what i said..............
09-23-2010, 01:55 PM
#14
I swapped K-members in my car in my garage with a floor jack. Put the car on stands, put the jack under the crank pulley, loosen the motor mount bolts, jack up the motor a tiny bit to get the load off the k-member, drop k-member, reinstall new one, tighten down motor mount bolts, lower jack. I didn't leave the motor hanging in the balance for more then about 30 minutes though. Get in, get off, get out. haha.
09-23-2010, 02:14 PM
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cool and expensive....they're mainly used for trans work on FWD cars....usually the shop provides them (any that I've worked at did anyway) because they aren't cheap. But it is made specifically to hold an engine s described....gotta love snap-on...making money off some back yard wrenches bright idea....
