IM Thinking about a 800+HP LT1 turbo build
09-27-2010, 05:48 PM
#121
lets see these junk yard turbo LT1s making 600+ RWHP for less
09-27-2010, 05:51 PM
#124
09-27-2010, 06:01 PM
#127
Your a moron. I have a built motor, I have a fully suspended car, I have a race built trans. My car has gone 11.60 @120 NA leaving at 4500 with a 1.68 60ft and tons left in it. Plus Im building a bigger better 388 right now. Did you happen to miss all that?????
09-27-2010, 06:08 PM
#128
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I promised myself not to get into anything complicated with my LT1 for this very same reason. When there's LSx, why the hell would I bother trying to make an older, less potent engine work. As much as it hurts to know my car isn't as potent as something else, but it doesn't make my car any less awesome than it is.
I heard LQ4 and LQ9 engines are cheaper and more durable than LS1. If you're gonna spend 20 grand on a car might as well spend an extra 3 grand on a swap like that and end up with something more durable.
I heard LQ4 and LQ9 engines are cheaper and more durable than LS1. If you're gonna spend 20 grand on a car might as well spend an extra 3 grand on a swap like that and end up with something more durable.
09-27-2010, 06:17 PM
#129
Some of us prefer to keep the engine that came in the car. Thats all and a LT1 can go wicked fast, prob is when getting into turbos theres no real off the shelf kits for them, making it crazy expensive unless you can fab all your own stuff and even then its 10x more expensive. Im not sure how anyone could say different.
09-27-2010, 06:23 PM
#130
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This thread looks trashed, but for what it's worth, I have about 11K in my engine/turbo setup. I'm only making 640hp but 750 is just a few psi away if I upgrade my fuel. This is with high end parts and all brand new. Also I did all the labor including building the motor. So if you want 800+hp you better be willing to spend AT LEAST 13-15K or just turn around.
09-27-2010, 06:42 PM
#131
Gotcha. I was only attacking claims, not builds, but I quit regardless.
Badass. There's a guy somewhat local here that did 571whp building his own stuff. His build was even less and that was his first run on the dyno that night. he was dialing in and tuning that night he just got it together. That's pretty cheap. You'd be hard pressed to make a heads cam built bottom end car run dyno that for any cheaper no matter the power adder.
Badass. There's a guy somewhat local here that did 571whp building his own stuff. His build was even less and that was his first run on the dyno that night. he was dialing in and tuning that night he just got it together. That's pretty cheap. You'd be hard pressed to make a heads cam built bottom end car run dyno that for any cheaper no matter the power adder.
Last edited by LSWHO; 09-27-2010 at 06:55 PM.
09-27-2010, 10:50 PM
#132
Dont quit you can build a 600rwhp car with scraps. Bottom line just like I first said a turbo set up is 10x a n2o set up period.I will stay with N2o because I cant afford a turbo car.
Also not sayin Tony didnt spend a lot on his kit, but it is still less than half of a compairable turbo set up and he is one of the fastest LT1s around. How much do you think it would cost him to convert?????
Also not sayin Tony didnt spend a lot on his kit, but it is still less than half of a compairable turbo set up and he is one of the fastest LT1s around. How much do you think it would cost him to convert?????
09-27-2010, 11:04 PM
#133
Ask him - I know for a fact he has thought about it more then once 
.
Doing a turbo RIGHT is big money. I started from scratch on my current build and considered all options for my goals - refresh the stock block and go turbo 355, turbo 383, nitroused 383, NA 396, or NA 383...for what I want to spend and run, an NA 383 was what I went with. I have over 10k into my NA motor, even getting tons of parts for killer deals, and still know that I would not have been able to turbo it how I want for that much. I'm not going to trust a junkyard turbo build on a stock block to hold together for very long if its making any kind of power(700+ fwhp).
I would not be shooting for under 700hp flywheel with a turbo. It wont be worth the money IMO, for that just spray a H/C 383...if you're gonna do it, do it big
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.Doing a turbo RIGHT is big money. I started from scratch on my current build and considered all options for my goals - refresh the stock block and go turbo 355, turbo 383, nitroused 383, NA 396, or NA 383...for what I want to spend and run, an NA 383 was what I went with. I have over 10k into my NA motor, even getting tons of parts for killer deals, and still know that I would not have been able to turbo it how I want for that much. I'm not going to trust a junkyard turbo build on a stock block to hold together for very long if its making any kind of power(700+ fwhp).
I would not be shooting for under 700hp flywheel with a turbo. It wont be worth the money IMO, for that just spray a H/C 383...if you're gonna do it, do it big
.
09-27-2010, 11:54 PM
#135
I can't just ignore you if you keep talking at me.
A guy JUST POSTED that he spent less than or equal to both of your builds and is making more power than both of you. I've watched a guy dyno tune his Z28 with a home garage basic piston upgrade motor and small turbo put down 571 on a baseline tune. He has less than HALF the money than ALL people mentioned thus far and is making 571whp.
I'm not saying turbos are cheap. But 800 whp NO MATTER THE POWER ADDER is going to cost a lot of money. The turbo version will be more expensive, but not by much.
A guy JUST POSTED that he spent less than or equal to both of your builds and is making more power than both of you. I've watched a guy dyno tune his Z28 with a home garage basic piston upgrade motor and small turbo put down 571 on a baseline tune. He has less than HALF the money than ALL people mentioned thus far and is making 571whp.
I'm not saying turbos are cheap. But 800 whp NO MATTER THE POWER ADDER is going to cost a lot of money. The turbo version will be more expensive, but not by much.
09-28-2010, 05:42 AM
#136
Launching!
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OK guys, every build is different. Everyone has preferences. You build the car to suit you and your wallet. Yeah great, you can get 550+rwhp cheaply...awesome, go do it. Good luck having a pristine car, everything done damn near perfect, able to eat off the underside, and do it for under half of what most guys do. I'd personally rather have a clean as **** car, have more money in it and make less power (although 600+ isn't anything to shake a stick at). I'd rather take it to the track, not worry about it breaking, and drive it home. By the time you build it properly, you're gonna throw that "power for cheap" out the window. Oh I can use a cheaper turbo, oh I can use a cheap wastegate, ahh stock rods are fine, the rearend will hold if I'm nice to it....keep saying that and you'll have more money in tow bills than you would've had in a well-done car. ACHotrod's car is BY FAR one of the most well-built cars I've seen, and I guarantee you won't find a cleaner car for the power he's making...period. I bet his ******* doesn't pucker every time he gets on it wondering about rod bolts or shearing a pinion gear. If you ask me I'd rather spend the money and do it right before I go and just make numbers to show off. It seems everyone knows someone or is a friend of a friend of a friend of a guy who made 600rwhp on a stock bottom. How many times did it actually make that? Everyone has heard it, but Power, Money, Reliability, pick 2. I bet you know which 2 I picked...
Edit:not ******* on anybody specifically, my car's build was cheaper than some (at 15k right now), but I did 100% of the fab and assembly. All I let anybody else do was bore/hone/machining for 4 bolt main caps.
Edit:not ******* on anybody specifically, my car's build was cheaper than some (at 15k right now), but I did 100% of the fab and assembly. All I let anybody else do was bore/hone/machining for 4 bolt main caps.
09-28-2010, 07:35 AM
#137
I dont see why not. Chassis is pretty much done, I have a built th350 and the only part of my engine Id worry about in the factory rods which do have arp hardware so It might last a while it might not. In the mean time i have a nice 4bolt block and cola crank that just need some pistons and rods. Vtechs car seems to do fine on a factory shortblock
Also if I remember right my car has gone quicker than yours has ever, and has every single time out, until I changed it.
If your referring to my 12sec pass at the shootout(which by the way you werent there) anyone who knows **** about cars knows my car is not set up to run NA at the moment and I had a bad day driving the first time out with the new set up.
Also if I remember right my car has gone quicker than yours has ever, and has every single time out, until I changed it.
If your referring to my 12sec pass at the shootout(which by the way you werent there) anyone who knows **** about cars knows my car is not set up to run NA at the moment and I had a bad day driving the first time out with the new set up.
Absolutly your car will move, a set of compstar h beams and a forged piston and your good to go Mike. And as for your 12 second pass at the shootout I was there and I saw it.....you were having issues with the car/driver lol....i know theres much more in it and also everybody was a bit slower at the shootout...i was down a couple of tenths and about 2mph ish.....you car is an impressive car....runs great!!!
must've been absent that day lol
Another 10 second NA LT1 comming up!!! Be glad to have you in the club!!!
Some of us prefer to keep the engine that came in the car. Thats all and a LT1 can go wicked fast, prob is when getting into turbos theres no real off the shelf kits for them, making it crazy expensive unless you can fab all your own stuff and even then its 10x more expensive. Im not sure how anyone could say different.
Yep, I looked into it too it would cost me at least 8k to switch over my setup to a properly setup turbo car. Pistons, cam, gear, converter, injectors, then all the turbo crap might as well just buy another car lol....I'm going for 9s NA and I'm close now......then i wont need the turbo right? lol ...i wanna run the 9 numbers on motor then its time to wack it with a shot....of course i''ll stay under 50% of my power as stated above lol......
09-28-2010, 08:46 AM
#138
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Some of us prefer to keep the engine that came in the car. Thats all and a LT1 can go wicked fast, prob is when getting into turbos theres no real off the shelf kits for them, making it crazy expensive unless you can fab all your own stuff and even then its 10x more expensive. Im not sure how anyone could say different.
Most people say LT1 is not on par with the LS1 because of its poor headflow. No matter what you do to it, if you had done the same on an LS1 you'd end up with a better head flow. Apart from that apparently the maximum you can ask a stock LT1 bottom end is around 600hp while an LS1 could probably do just fine at 800-900hp. So if someone wants 700hp out of an LT1 he needs forged internals, as opposed to not needing them with an LS1.
Of course I don't have the experience to confirm all this info but it's what I found from research on the forums and talking to various people.
09-28-2010, 08:52 AM
#139
There are turbo kits out there, they're expensive but they come with everything you need. 4 grand for a new set of STS rear mount to about 6 for a twin turbo front mount set (dont remember the brand), all of which bolts right onto your engine. You could fab your own stuff like this guy I saw make a rear mount with $1700 or something, but in that case it's not that expensive.
Most people say LT1 is not on par with the LS1 because of its poor headflow. No matter what you do to it, if you had done the same on an LS1 you'd end up with a better head flow. Apart from that apparently the maximum you can ask a stock LT1 bottom end is around 600hp while an LS1 could probably do just fine at 800-900hp. So if someone wants 700hp out of an LT1 he needs forged internals, as opposed to not needing them with an LS1.
Of course I don't have the experience to confirm all this info but it's what I found from research on the forums and talking to various people.
Most people say LT1 is not on par with the LS1 because of its poor headflow. No matter what you do to it, if you had done the same on an LS1 you'd end up with a better head flow. Apart from that apparently the maximum you can ask a stock LT1 bottom end is around 600hp while an LS1 could probably do just fine at 800-900hp. So if someone wants 700hp out of an LT1 he needs forged internals, as opposed to not needing them with an LS1.
Of course I don't have the experience to confirm all this info but it's what I found from research on the forums and talking to various people.
09-28-2010, 10:25 AM
#140
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A guy JUST POSTED that he spent less than or equal to both of your builds and is making more power than both of you. I've watched a guy dyno tune his Z28 with a home garage basic piston upgrade motor and small turbo put down 571 on a baseline tune. He has less than HALF the money than ALL people mentioned thus far and is making 571whp.
Last edited by SS RRR; 09-28-2010 at 11:31 AM.