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cost to change intake manifold gasket?
10-08-2010 | 05:58 AM
#41
The only reason I would advise against an abrasive disk is that they produce abrasive dust, which your oil will quickly absorb. I've had tremendous luck with just a good solvent and a razor blade.
10-08-2010 | 07:10 AM
#42
OP, where in NW IN? There are plenty of us in the Chicagoland area that would be willing to give you a hand....
10-08-2010 | 10:23 AM
#43
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From: somewhere that doesn't get snow
paying almost $900/mo in rent plus only making ~ $14/hr was starting to kill me financially down there. I moved to AZ to move in with a friend and save money and then my parents got sick and i moved back here, my mom died in 07 and my dad is fine now but since i've been unemployed since 08 and have no direction in life right now, i can't really afford to move anywhere.
I'm in crown point which is in south lake county, the county in indiana that is closest to Crook county, il.
I'm in crown point which is in south lake county, the county in indiana that is closest to Crook county, il.
10-08-2010 | 10:38 AM
#44
man up and get a intake mani gasket kit for 15 dollars pick up the right stuff for the front and back of the intake, and a couple razor blades and while your at it a 6 pack then just go to town!
10-08-2010 | 06:54 PM
#45
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From: Eastern PA
northwest indiana. i used to live in pompano beach, fl though, lol. i bought the car in weston in may 2004.
it doesn't requre any torqing of bolts or anything right? you can just crank them down with a standard ratchet? problem is, if i did it myself, it'd be by myself. i really know no one up here who is into cars. my dad doesn't even like doing stuff like changing headlights. (i had to ask him for help getting a stuck bolt loose on the headlight on my old 95 subaru wagon, lol) I'm not exaggerating when i say i really am not good with mechanical stuff. i did manage to remove all my seats for reupholstering 2 years ago without much issue. i even disassembled them too. i had to have the upholstery shop finish the reassembly though.
it doesn't requre any torqing of bolts or anything right? you can just crank them down with a standard ratchet? problem is, if i did it myself, it'd be by myself. i really know no one up here who is into cars. my dad doesn't even like doing stuff like changing headlights. (i had to ask him for help getting a stuck bolt loose on the headlight on my old 95 subaru wagon, lol) I'm not exaggerating when i say i really am not good with mechanical stuff. i did manage to remove all my seats for reupholstering 2 years ago without much issue. i even disassembled them too. i had to have the upholstery shop finish the reassembly though.
The intake manifold bolts need to be torqued to about 35ft/lb in the proper sequence. You really only need the extra hands when plopping the intake back on, I'm sure you can find someone to stand there and help guide it back on, no car knowledge required to do that lol. Or try the dowel pins on one side of the intake, you might be able to get away with dropping it down by yourself with that method.
10-08-2010 | 08:31 PM
#46
Like everyone else is saying its not really hard, i never thought to have anyone help lower it back on, didn't seem necessary to me. Of course neither did my transmission, now that was a bitch. Mostly because of my 35$ baby floor jack. But anyways the fuel lines can be a bugger without the right tool, and a few bucks spent on a set of box end ratchet wrenches for the things in the back can be a life saver. Just pray it isn't your rear main seal leaking, that is what my leek ended up being..
10-08-2010 | 09:09 PM
#47
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From: somewhere that doesn't get snow
Like everyone else is saying its not really hard, i never thought to have anyone help lower it back on, didn't seem necessary to me. Of course neither did my transmission, now that was a bitch. Mostly because of my 35$ baby floor jack. But anyways the fuel lines can be a bugger without the right tool, and a few bucks spent on a set of box end ratchet wrenches for the things in the back can be a life saver. Just pray it isn't your rear main seal leaking, that is what my leek ended up being..
10-12-2010 | 11:25 AM
#48
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I just called a shop and for them to change the intake manifold and let it sit for 24 hrs (they said this is what you're supposed to do so thats a good thing) and change the oil and add some coolant (for the TB lines maybe? we didn't have to add coolant last time) would be ~ $440. Is that a fair price? Since they want to change the oil i might just wait till spring to have it done and then start the summer off with fresh oil. hmm.
10-12-2010 | 11:47 AM
#49
I just called a shop and for them to change the intake manifold and let it sit for 24 hrs (they said this is what you're supposed to do so thats a good thing) and change the oil and add some coolant (for the TB lines maybe? we didn't have to add coolant last time) would be ~ $440. Is that a fair price? Since they want to change the oil i might just wait till spring to have it done and then start the summer off with fresh oil. hmm.
10-12-2010 | 12:19 PM
#51
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Im doing my intake manifold right now as well, wasn't to bad the only hard part i had was getting some of the bolts out but i left the fuel rails on. one of the studs was spinning when i was trying to take the top nut off. After doing it though i would not be happy at all to have to pay 400 for that. If your worried abut changing oil just have someone help you and look around at guides its really simple.
I only drive ~ 5k a year and probably have only put around 9k mi or so on the car since it was changed in june 2008.
10-12-2010 | 01:29 PM
#52
Can I just use a long slightly smaller rod/stud thing to guide it in?
I need to redo mine, sounds like it will be much easier this way lol.
10-12-2010 | 03:19 PM
#53
It's really not hard to do....if you do it you will be VERY upset that they would charge that much for the job. the oil change is not required due to the fact that no coolant runs in the intake and therefore will not dump into the crankcase. I'm busy the next two weekends, but I'd be willing to teach you/show you what it takes, but it's pretty much an hour drive to/from my place. It's up to you, but I definitely would not pay that much to get it fixed...
10-13-2010 | 01:22 AM
#54
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It's really not hard to do....if you do it you will be VERY upset that they would charge that much for the job. the oil change is not required due to the fact that no coolant runs in the intake and therefore will not dump into the crankcase. I'm busy the next two weekends, but I'd be willing to teach you/show you what it takes, but it's pretty much an hour drive to/from my place. It's up to you, but I definitely would not pay that much to get it fixed...
10-13-2010 | 01:59 AM
#55
I wouldn't go by that....I've done plenty and fired them shortly after bolting it down and never had an issue with a leak. "RightStuff" sets up quickly and once you get heat in it, it dries rather quickly. Infact we did a head and cam swap on my buddies old boat and fired it within an hour of bolting the manifold back on and haven't had any issues since....
take it as you will, but I've never seen an issue if done properly
take it as you will, but I've never seen an issue if done properly
10-13-2010 | 04:41 AM
#56
I think 24 hours is unnecessary. If I can, I usually wait 12 hours, but have fired it up in as little as 3. Of course there is a degree of risk involved in starting it before the RTV has completely set (i.e., cold weather, etc.). If you can, wait at least 12 hours, IMO.
10-13-2010 | 11:56 AM
#57
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From: somewhere that doesn't get snow
Is it possible it's not my intake leaking? we felt black stuff where it meets the block but could it be something else back there? it's on the right side so it probably isn't the OSU and the valve cover is dry though.
10-13-2010 | 12:27 PM
#60
Depending on how it was done the last time, there's plenty of reasons why it could go bad. Type of RTV used (and quantity), proximity of the EGR tube, dry time of the RTV, setting the manifold on incorrectly and sliding, etc. Any one or combination of these can speed up gasket failure.