Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I'm planning alot of suspension work this winter and will possibly have the car down next summer for more upgrades and now I'm thinking about getting a new set of heads, intake, cam, and exhaust.

For exhaust I'm going to try to get LPPs and run 3" duals with mac mufflers, x pipe, yadda, yadda, yadda

Heads and intake I'm thinking AI ported trickflows with a solid roller cam and single plane intake with an elbow and LS style throttle body. I have been talking to EFI connections about the LS computer swap using the 24x package and a custom harness.

I'm planning on staying 355 ci but am planning on upgrading my rods to some H beams and staying with the stock crank for now (good idea or no?). I'm not spraying it or planning on adding any boost in the near future, but if that happens a new mill will be in the works.

My real question is a solid cam worth the trouble on a "street" car? I'm wanting a solid roller setup, but I'm having trouble deciding if its really worth it for my setup. I know there is a little bit of power to be had with a solid roller vs hydraulic, but is it worth the adjusting at XXXX miles? My car sees the track once in a while and I want to get into a little road racing, but its a street car and sees about 15k miles a year if I'm lucky, this year its well less than 10k miles, more like 5k.

I'm not wanting to start a battle of LE vs AI at all I have made up my mind on who I'm going to. The reason I want an upgrade is I bought my heads used, they are old (5+years old), milled too far, my intake doesn't line up right, and they are chewed up from the PO blowing up his motor at least 2 times. They aren't in good shape, and are in need of being replaced.

BTW my car is stockish weight, M6, 4.10s. I'm just looking for a good all around setup that will make lots of power.

Thanks in advance guys

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

....if you're going to this extent, I think a solid roller is a no-brainer. For a daily driver, no. For a weekend warrior, yes.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Thats kind of what I was thinking, but a few local guys are saying that the solid roller setup isn't worth the hassle. I don't see it being that bad, but I've never had a solid roller setup. But getting my valve covers off isn't a big deal now since my alternator it relocated, so its just 8 bolts every 3K miles or so when I change my oil at least what I have read is you can get away with 3k miles without adjusting the valves after the initial setup.

Formula383

iTrader: (8)

There really is no set mileage where you have to adjust your valvetrain. Every 3K is easy to remember with your oil change but doesn't mean it needs to be done then. If it's a weekend warrior like mine, then at most it might see 3-5K miles per year. Doesn't seem like setting the valves 1-2 times a year is any hassle to me. I've had my SR combo running since May this year. I've set the valves twice: once during assembly and once after some heat cycles.

I'd say go SR and don't look back.

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

If your going to get a SR cam and the exotic top end buy a forged crank. It will handle the big RPM's better than a cast unit. Than gap the rings with a healthy shot of n2o in mind.

But with the setup your talking about and a real SR cam it should make 500rw+. One of their customers has a stock crank, 200cc, SR cam, street/strip intake and makes 500rw, he's a m6 car like you.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Well I'm thinking about doing a crank too, but then I may as well build a new motor. I can get away with just rods and feel comfortable, but a forged crank would be a nice and add a little piece of mind. I have been spinning my motor to 7k rpms for almost 2 years now with no problems. I don't try to spin to 7k but thats where my limiter is and my tach doesn't always read right so it has gotten there quite a few times.

The new setup I would like to get a few more rpms out of it, but thats not really what I'm concerned about. I really just want some more power. I have had my current setup for 2 years and I'm ready for an upgrade with some good parts instead of hand-me-downs. But I think solid roller is the way I'm going to go. I have no problem working on my car a couple of extra hours a year

Thanks guys

joelster

If you are keeping the stock pcm you are limited to 7000rpm. If you go with EFI connection setup then you can go higher than that. I'm not sure that I would trust a cast crank to spin to 7500+rpm, which is what any good solid cam would want to spin to. Who did the previous machine work on the motor that took it out to 355"? Just from your post i'm assuming you want a solid cam just for the sound, lol.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Ya I want it just for the sound

BTW don't you still owe me some money for a junk set of pistons I bought from you that were suppose to be ok and my motor builder said that they were oval???????????

joelster

I never sold anybody anything. You must have me confused with someone else. The sound comment was a joke too, lol.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Sorry must have you confused with someone else

I want to spin more rpms and I know solid cams like rpms. I will get a forged crank if I have to, to be safe. I have studs and the block has been all cleaned up less than 10k miles ago. Everything was done, but no block fill or anything like that

I'm just wanting an all out "street" motor, well all out for my budget LOL. I'd like to be 500rwhp range and I'm pretty sure thats out of the stock crank range.

I'm still looking and am getting ready to pull the trigger on something, just waiting for the right combo

97Z28SS

iTrader: (5)

If you're going to drive it on the street at all you better buy the "HIPPO" solid roller lifters or you'll kill lifters, cams and eventually your motor. SBC engines use "splash oiling" for the cam and cylinder walls so at idle and low rpms not enough oil gets to the cam and roller wheels and that's what kills them. The HIPPO pressurized lifters are expensive too.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Well I don't do stop and go traffic, I live in a small town 5000 people, not alot of sitting in traffic idling. I'll check out the HIPPOs though, thanks for the heads up

Formula383

iTrader: (8)

Comp Endure-X lifters should work just fine. They are about $500 from Summit, JEGS, etc.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-888-16/

Advanced Induction

iTrader: (2)

What in the world did guys do before forced pin oiling?

Not to give anyone a hard time, but standard lifters aren't just going to come apart because you had to idle in traffic on the way home. Certainly, we lean towards the HIPPO style lifter, but in our experience standard SR lifters can be run reliably for thousands of miles on the street.

We actually have 2 popular SR configs. The budget option is on the store under valve train as "Street/Strip SR Kit" & is for the guys who want to run SR on our head w/ the PAC beehive style spring. The "Pro Series SR Kit" is what we'd lean towards if you really want to move towards high end parts with significantly increased potential over our HR setups. I haven't yet added the high end SR head versions to the shop yet, so you'd have to email for a quote at the moment.

If guys follow our instruction/suggestions after buying heads & valve train regarding short block machining, component selection, inlet/exh, etc then making 470-510rwhp NA isn't particularly difficult if that is your goal.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

^ agreed...........running a beefed up solid roller valvetrain here.........I've got around 170 passes on the motor and about 3k miles of street driving seeing 7800-8000rpm on the regular and my stuff looks like it hasn't even been used............OP go with the solid roller and build it right and you'll neva have a problem.........my rockers never come out of lash....i check them every oil change but I've neva had one back off all year on me.....

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Good to hear man

I think I have changed my build plans. My motor runs good right now. I think this year I'm going to concentrate all of my attention to my suspension and tranny then build a motor over the next few years.

So far what I have in mind is a half filled LT1 block, billet splayed caps, forged rotating assembly (don't know what brand yet) 383 or 396 cubes, wiesco or mahle forged pistons (11.5:1 or so compression), AI ported trickflows, custom solid roller cam, fluid damper, aluminum flywheel, probably the comp endure-x lifters, don't know on rockers yet maybe my pro mags or jesels but those are expensive but I want this thing done right so I'll see, and more but I don't know what else I would need off the top of my head.

I'll post up as I get more ideas, but hopefully I'll have a motor that will last me for years to come and be a badass setup on top of that.

Any other pointers on rotating assemblies or anything like that let me know, I love any new info

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

sounds good but id ditch those comp lifters i dont like them......check out morel....best lifter out there I'm running the Morel HIPPO's

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Ok I'll look into them. I have Comp Rs right now and don't really care for them, makes my motor sound like a sewing machine LOL I know a solid roller is going to have some sound there, but at least they are suppose to sound like that