Was gonna buy 7 quarts of Royal Purple break in oil, Yes or No?:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPO-11487/

What oil filter for break in?

AND, some of you may consider this "snake oil" but how about a filter magnet?
Scroll down a bit.
http://www.pattersonracing.com/cgi-b...nd_Vac_Systems

 

i broke my in with joe gibbs racing break in oil and a good old 3 dollar fram lol.............started it let it run for about 3 minutes at 2000 or so..........then i drove it around for 25 minutes under a moderatee load between 2500 and 5000 to seat the rings......the i changed the oil went to the dyno and buzzed it 8000 lol

 

As for oil i would just use Rotella T with a napa gold filter. And change the oil after I had set the rings.

 

yep rotella works well also

 

The last new motor I had I just used cheap autozone oil and fram filter. Changed it twice, once after a 15 minute warm up and again after a few miles.

Not sure if this is the best way but its still goin

 

your better off with a diesel oil or a break in oil they have more zinc and phosphourous in them than the standard oils and they will break in the rings better than normal oils........whatever you do STAY AWAY FROM SYNTHETIC for the first 1000 miles at least.......personally i dont even run it now.....i run the valvoline VR1 Race oil

 

VR1 here as well, 20w50, i believe he broke it in with diesel style oil

 

Went through this in another thread. Redline has the most zince and phos:

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=14&pcid=1

 

I used Rotella for my first two oil changes(10 mins, then 300 miles), then switched to Mobile 1.

 

This? http://shop.joegibbsracingoil.com/cat-34-1-22/BR30.htm

 

Found Rotella T: http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...on_detail.html

What's the rational for staying away from synthetic?

 

Synthetic are too slippery and do not provide the necessary friction for the rings to seat properly against the cylinder walls, resulting in glazing. ALWAYS use conventional.

Also, a break-in oil is not needed on a HR motor. Use whatever you can find cheapest. I always use Valvoline or Pennzoil conventional.

 

No, I knew that I was just curious as to his rational why he stays away from synthetic.

 

I might've gone overboard when I broke mine in.

Rotella & NAPA filter, startup and first heat cycle.
Rotella & NAPA filter, first 200 miles.
Royal Purple break-in oil for first 1500 miles
Now running straight Royal Purple

 

Once the rings are seated in doesnt hurt to change to synthetic right? I broke my motor in with VR1 and redline and after 3000 miles I switched to Mobile 1 5w40

 

my engine builder put joe gibbs break in oil in and said do not change until 500 miles. he also said when you get dyno at 500 miles do one pull with break in oil, and put mobile one in and continue dyno. also only put 5w30 10w30. rotella is what i use in my motorcycle. it has japan motorcycle rating. no clutch slippage. also they now have a synthetic

 

Was looking into all these high zinc/phosphorus oils and from what I've gathered they're beneficial on flat tappet cams.

So I just chose to break it in with some conventional Penzoil 5w-30 on the first startup.

 

Just my $0.02 worth....Being an "old timer", who was raised on flat tappet engines, I fully understand the "break in oil" deal, due to the higher zinc content of these oils. Both of my current cars are HR (hydraulic roller) engines, however the Camaro (LT1) came from the factory with dino oil, and has had nothing but dino oil it it. My Corvette (LS1), came from the factory with syn oil, and has had nothing but syn oil in it. The rings appear to have seated well, as neither engine uses any oil.....

 

I used Valvoline conventional, primed the motor then changed it then started it an ran it for 15-30 minutes than changed it again, then again and 750 miles

 

Are there any negative effects if you use break-in oil on a HR motor?