Breaking in a new engine
Breaking in a new engine Was gonna buy 7 quarts of Royal Purple break in oil, Yes or No?:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPO-11487/
What oil filter for break in?
AND, some of you may consider this "snake oil" but how about a filter magnet?
Scroll down a bit.
http://www.pattersonracing.com/cgi-b...nd_Vac_Systems
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPO-11487/
What oil filter for break in?
AND, some of you may consider this "snake oil" but how about a filter magnet?
Scroll down a bit.
http://www.pattersonracing.com/cgi-b...nd_Vac_Systems
i broke my in with joe gibbs racing break in oil and a good old 3 dollar fram lol.............started it let it run for about 3 minutes at 2000 or so..........then i drove it around for 25 minutes under a moderatee load between 2500 and 5000 to seat the rings......the i changed the oil went to the dyno and buzzed it 8000 lol
The last new motor I had I just used cheap autozone oil and fram filter. Changed it twice, once after a 15 minute warm up and again after a few miles.
Not sure if this is the best way but its still goin
Not sure if this is the best way but its still goin
your better off with a diesel oil or a break in oil they have more zinc and phosphourous in them than the standard oils and they will break in the rings better than normal oils........whatever you do STAY AWAY FROM SYNTHETIC for the first 1000 miles at least.......personally i dont even run it now.....i run the valvoline VR1 Race oil
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your better off with a diesel oil or a break in oil they have more zinc and phosphourous in them than the standard oils and they will break in the rings better than normal oils........whatever you do STAY AWAY FROM SYNTHETIC for the first 1000 miles at least.......personally i dont even run it now.....i run the valvoline VR1 Race oil
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=14&pcid=1
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i broke my in with joe gibbs racing break in oil and a good old 3 dollar fram lol.............started it let it run for about 3 minutes at 2000 or so..........then i drove it around for 25 minutes under a moderatee load between 2500 and 5000 to seat the rings......the i changed the oil went to the dyno and buzzed it 8000 lol
your better off with a diesel oil or a break in oil they have more zinc and phosphourous in them than the standard oils and they will break in the rings better than normal oils........whatever you do STAY AWAY FROM SYNTHETIC for the first 1000 miles at least.......personally i dont even run it now.....i run the valvoline VR1 Race oil
Found Rotella T: http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...on_detail.html
What's the rational for staying away from synthetic?
What's the rational for staying away from synthetic?
Also, a break-in oil is not needed on a HR motor. Use whatever you can find cheapest. I always use Valvoline or Pennzoil conventional.
Synthetic are too slippery and do not provide the necessary friction for the rings to seat properly against the cylinder walls, resulting in glazing. ALWAYS use conventional.
Also, a break-in oil is not needed on a HR motor. Use whatever you can find cheapest. I always use Valvoline or Pennzoil conventional.
Also, a break-in oil is not needed on a HR motor. Use whatever you can find cheapest. I always use Valvoline or Pennzoil conventional.
I might've gone overboard when I broke mine in.
Rotella & NAPA filter, startup and first heat cycle.
Rotella & NAPA filter, first 200 miles.
Royal Purple break-in oil for first 1500 miles
Now running straight Royal Purple
Rotella & NAPA filter, startup and first heat cycle.
Rotella & NAPA filter, first 200 miles.
Royal Purple break-in oil for first 1500 miles
Now running straight Royal Purple
my engine builder put joe gibbs break in oil in and said do not change until 500 miles. he also said when you get dyno at 500 miles do one pull with break in oil, and put mobile one in and continue dyno. also only put 5w30 10w30. rotella is what i use in my motorcycle. it has japan motorcycle rating. no clutch slippage. also they now have a synthetic
my engine builder put joe gibbs break in oil in and said do not change until 500 miles. he also said when you get dyno at 500 miles do one pull with break in oil, and put mobile one in and continue dyno. also only put 5w30 10w30. rotella is what i use in my motorcycle. it has japan motorcycle rating. no clutch slippage. also they now have a synthetic
So I just chose to break it in with some conventional Penzoil 5w-30 on the first startup.
Just my $0.02 worth....Being an "old timer", who was raised on flat tappet engines, I fully understand the "break in oil" deal, due to the higher zinc content of these oils. Both of my current cars are HR (hydraulic roller) engines, however the Camaro (LT1) came from the factory with dino oil, and has had nothing but dino oil it it. My Corvette (LS1), came from the factory with syn oil, and has had nothing but syn oil in it. The rings appear to have seated well, as neither engine uses any oil.....
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