OneBadTA

Whats the average price for a stock rebuild? Im looking at freshening up my engine but not going for more power. On average, what do you think this would cost? My engine ran fine before the Optispark went out and now i want to pull it out, clean it up, and make it mostly new again.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Depends really. If you just dropped off the car, you'd probably be looking at $5-6k. But if you did most of the disassembly and reassembly yourself (minus the lower end machine-work and assembly) it would cost around $1500-2k.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Reuse the crank and rods. In some cases you may be able to get away with just a hone and reusing the stock pistons which will decrease the cost.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

There are places that sell brand new 4 bolt LT1 shortblocks for $1000, cant remember where I saw them but do a search, I would go that route and then just swap the rod bolts with ARPs and spin the bitch as high as you want.

OneBadTA

I'm more looking at keeping everything i can and replace only what needs to. New rings and bearings, possibly pistons if the cylinder walls are worn. The engine isn't gonna be built for power, just a stock daily driver. Has anyone heard much about flatlanderracing.com?

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Powertrain Products was the place that sold the shortblock for $1000, contact them and see if they have any more left.

Spiers

iTrader: (7)

By the time I bought new bearings, rings, gaskets, oil pump, and other little misc. crap, I spent around $1000. That was no machine work, a simple hone, keeping factory pistons, doing all the labor myself.

OneBadTA

Thanks everyone. So close to $1000. I expect to pay more but at least I know it'll be close to that.

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

2-10k depending on mild-wild. Most of the time when you take apart a high mileage motor you need to replace lots of little small BS things. They add up.

**** even plugs wires o2's and a opti can add a decent amount to your build.

LT1-TA

i dropped my complete short block off at a performance engine builder and it cost me 1700.that included disassembly,assembly machine work,pistons,rings,bearings and arp rod bolts.block was bored 30 over,decked magnafluxed ect. Im not sure if this will help but i figured it wouldnt hurt.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Is there such a thing as an average rebuild?

OneBadTA

Ill be doing the dissassembly and assembly myself. Just gotta pay for machine work and measureing. I was looking at Flatlanderracing.com. There rebuild kits seem like a pretty good price. Anywhere from $250 for a rering kit to $650 to a master rebuild kit including pistons, rings, oil pump, bearings, etc.... The car is strickly daily driven and not raced. No need for anything more than a stock type rebuild. Im mainly looking at the cost of the engine internals for now. Sorry, i should have stated that in the beginning.

stevo9389

that was almost 2 years ago on ebay. i contacted them about getting more and they do not think it is likely to happen again. i also asked about selling me a rebuilt shortblocks but sadly they only sell rebuilt longblocks.

badass383formula96

it cost around 700 for me, i had the crank micro polished an had the rods resized an had arp rod bolts installed an hot tanked an align honed. the rest of the work i did my self. new bearings an rings an gaskets an that was it.

heres what i paid

crank micro polish 55.00
align hone 60.00
hot tank 40.00
rod resize an arp rod bolt install 140.00
new rings 95.00
rod bearings 28.00
main bearings 28.00
cam bearings 20.00
arp rod bolts 65.00
head gaskets 44.00
oil pan gasket 25.00
rear main 20.00
intake gasket 15.00
timing chain cover gasket set 10.00
solid oil pump drive shaft 8.00
stock meling oil pump an pick up 47.00
timing chain set (it was discounted) 45.00

carguyshu

iTrader: (8)

gasket kits alone for these things are several hundred dollars & machine work can get out of hand quickly if very much stuff needs done. You are gonna be so much better off just buying a motor that someone else has done & dropping it in. I got a 383 with Le2 heads & a hotcam for 2k & it only had 3k miles on it. Sure it has a cast crank & rods in it, but it will have similar daily driveability as a stock LT1, a ton more power & cost less (when factoring in selling the old motor) than doing a stock rebuild (which would use a cast crank anyways). Deals like this aren't all that rare anymore either given the economy today. You'd be much better off buying something like that & selling your current motor for a couple hundred. Just my 2 cents, whatever that's worth

brucer

check Northern Auto Parts for the rebuild kits...

rering kit http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...tModelId=10726

master kit minus camshaft http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...tModelId=10727

for a general rering without any machine work needed i would go with $1000.. i would also get a valve job and upgrade the stock springs..

if i had the engine down for a rering, it would not go back together until it had at least a hotcam in it.. also a new oilpump and high pressure spring...

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

The thing about rebuild kits is machine shops who do the machining and assembly of the block like to use their own. Besides if something goes wrong the shop can easily blame the parts they did not order.

OneBadTA

Ill get with my engine builder who will be doing the machine work and see what his prices are. He did some port and polish work on my old 2.0 turbo head which ended up flowing enough air to make 600hp @ 7500rpm and it only cost me $400 for the head work. I dont think the engine will need alot done, it only had 125k miles and ran great before the opti went out. I mainly wanted to rebuild it because it was really sludged up from sitting for many years. But once again, its gonna be a stock build using all the original parts with the exception of what is bad and needs replaced. Im not into racing, im not into making much more power over stock, i just want a v8 to drive again. Its mainly gonna be a bottom end refreshen along with the heads checked.

brucer

the op said he was doing his own disassembly and assembly.. not going to be any kind of warranty with that anyways..most automotive machine shops machine tolerances by the book anyways, unless requested..... most shops are buying from the same place you are in the end, a wholesale outfit.. sure they want you to use the parts they can supply, because they make more money off the parts..

any how the last rebuild kit i got from northern had speedpro pistons, clevite bearings, melling oilpump and lifters.. if a shop cant work with those parts they dont need to be in business.. summit has a good rebuild kit also, speedpro pistons, clevite bearings, hastings rings, felpro gaskets, melling oilpump...

machine shops can get rering and rebuild kits cheaper, but generally its a low cost kit, such as pbm, which for a general rebuild is actually a decent kit..

69gto96z

iTrader: (13)

This sounds about right. I spent around 3 grand on mine, re-used all factory bottom end internals. Had a valve job done, full valvetrain for a cc306 swap. Then new clutch/flywheel, opti, and all the other little things ran the cost up a bit more. This was also with me doing the whole dissasembly/assembly and removal/install. But it can be done for about a grand if you are keeping everything internal factory.

Spiers, do you have anymore pics of your car, it looks good!