LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

I broke my timing chain..

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Old 11-22-2010, 04:57 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 97pontta
Not to hijack your thread OP, but on the topic of PTV clearance,

What is the best way to check PTV clearance? I'll be assembling my 355 in the next few months with my AI Cam and want to cover all my bases. I've always heard to assemble the top end with some soft clay on the piston valve relief and rotate the engine slowly, disassemble and check. Is this correct?
There are a couple of different ways to check piston to valve clearance. One's the Clay method and the other involves using a dial indicator.

I much prefer the Clay method and is the only method I use. It's a simple, straight forward procedure. I'll be starting on a 396 for my son's Vette in a couple of weeks and I'll be using the Clay method, again.

What you posted is basically how to do it. You must oil the piston, clay and valves to prevent them from sticking to each other. You can measure the thinnest area with a caliper or even stack feeler gauges along side the thinnest area to see how much clearance you have.

Jake
Old 11-25-2010, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by TravisMcGill2000
Thanks for the help. I am running 21* heads on standard pistons. I will be pulling heads off during the holiday's and check for bent valves. I will also check the p2v clearances. I will also go back with a gm timing set if i dont swap to vented opti.. If there are any problems with my heads. Be looking for a phone call from me. thanks
Keep in mind that you will need to have a machine shop put the valves in a valve grinder/lathe to detect minimally bent valves. A drill press etc. may be OK depending on the runout in the chuck (which you can check before putting a valve in it). Hopefully it isn't too bad, but there would normally be a few damaged valves when they're no longer operating in concert with the piston. Good luck!
Old 01-30-2011, 07:58 PM
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finally pulled heads off yesterday. Has 6 bent valves atleast. 2 pistons r shot so it looks like im pullin motor back out..
Old 01-30-2011, 08:19 PM
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damn that sucks, well now you can build another stout engine..
Old 01-30-2011, 10:44 PM
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Gona go with better and lighter pistons this time, with little bigger cam, port the heads, swap to 1 7/8 headers and lid.. hopin for 10s na.. o yea and swap to vented opti so i can run a double roller timing set lol
Old 01-31-2011, 05:06 AM
  #46  
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That sux bro sorry this happened...
Old 02-05-2011, 07:28 PM
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its my own fault
Old 02-05-2011, 07:35 PM
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Send the heads to Lloyd or AI while they're off!
Old 02-05-2011, 08:06 PM
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yea thats diff wat im doin
Old 02-05-2011, 10:03 PM
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Always upgrade when you can, don't just replace it. Sounds like you have a perfect chance to upgrade a few things. Sucks to hear of your misfortune though.
Old 02-05-2011, 11:41 PM
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yea u live and learn. This is my 1st build and im learning more as i go
Old 02-06-2011, 12:55 PM
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I broke a melling timing chain a few years back on my 355 and bent every exhaust valve, Now on my current setup I run a stock replacement cloyes and an oversize crank gear to take out the extra slack. Its what My engine builder recomended, and i wanted to keep the factory water pump.
Old 02-07-2011, 07:55 AM
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I have a Cloyes double roller chain, timning chain cover clearanced for the double roller, Meziere electric waterpump, that I will make you a good deal on. I am swapping to BBC so I don't need any LT1 parts. I also have a killer 383 rotating assembly, block, LE4 solid roller cam, springs, retainers etc.. for a 10 second N/A LT1. My car ran 10.80@127mph with a n2o converter and LE3 stock castings. LMK later Clint



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