Mac mid length header install
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 10
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Mac mid length header install I just placed the order for the headers, but I have 2 questions.
1. How does the Cat convertor hook up to the y pipe supplied with the kit? Isn't the cat welded to the stock y-pipe?
2. Is there any way I can get the headers installed without lifting the engine from the motor mounts?
Application is for a 1995 Z28 M6.
1. How does the Cat convertor hook up to the y pipe supplied with the kit? Isn't the cat welded to the stock y-pipe?
2. Is there any way I can get the headers installed without lifting the engine from the motor mounts?
Application is for a 1995 Z28 M6.
Installation of Mids is much easier and you shouldn't have to lift the motor. I just did RKs and they are a bit larger then your MACs and left the motor in place. Tips:
1) Driverside - pull all the airpump and emissions stuff as it will give you much much more room to work with and you can drop this side in from the top.
2) Passide - Much more of a pain, but remove alternator and starter and then bring the header up from underneath, should squeaze by no prob.
3) Becareful of the temp sending unit on the driverside head as you can easily break it. I'd recc unplugging the pigtail first as I broke the pigtale getting mine in.
4) Get some PB blaster and soak the **** out of the stock mani bolts before you start trying to remove them as well as the Y pipe connections.
For the aftermarket Y - I am not sure about MAC but my JBA had what you call a buick ball joint to butt the cat too and it makes for a very good seal as well. Here is a pic:
Take your time and wear some gloves as you will cut the **** outta your hands as you go.
1) Driverside - pull all the airpump and emissions stuff as it will give you much much more room to work with and you can drop this side in from the top.
2) Passide - Much more of a pain, but remove alternator and starter and then bring the header up from underneath, should squeaze by no prob.
3) Becareful of the temp sending unit on the driverside head as you can easily break it. I'd recc unplugging the pigtail first as I broke the pigtale getting mine in.
4) Get some PB blaster and soak the **** out of the stock mani bolts before you start trying to remove them as well as the Y pipe connections.
For the aftermarket Y - I am not sure about MAC but my JBA had what you call a buick ball joint to butt the cat too and it makes for a very good seal as well. Here is a pic:
Take your time and wear some gloves as you will cut the **** outta your hands as you go.
PS
Soak the steering nuckle bolts in PB blaster as well, they will be pretty hard to get out.
PPS: DO NOT - I repeat - DO NOT spin the steering wheel once you remove the steering nuckle as you will trash your clockspring and thow an airbag code. Leave the wheel alone and straight until you reinstall the nuckle. I didn't do this but tons of guys do not thinking about it.
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You better keep a close eye on your spark plug wires. I went through two sets because they kept touching/laying against the headers. I finally had to zip tie the hell out of them where ever possible. I ran the MSD 8.5mm SD.
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Teching In
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 10
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You think I could get away with just getting heat resistant wire covers and using the stock plug wires? I haven't really got a chance to work with LT1s much, so this is all new to me. Im more used to ls1s. Changing those wires were pretty time consuming so im guessing changing LT1 wires would be even harder
You think I could get away with just getting heat resistant wire covers and using the stock plug wires? I haven't really got a chance to work with LT1s much, so this is all new to me. Im more used to ls1s. Changing those wires were pretty time consuming so im guessing changing LT1 wires would be even harder
Yeah I would do the heat covers for added piece of mind. Like Dave mentioned, keep a close eye on the passenger side. It can be a real PITA. You could always look into OTVC wires such as a Taylor set.
