Cars New Year Resolution is to lose weight...Pics added...
12-24-2010, 10:45 PM
#1
Cars New Year Resolution is to lose weight...Pics added... Alright so I have put the car on a strict diet..Because lets face it its easier for me to cut metal out than to put down the fork...lol
So far
AC and components are gone
Tubular K member
Front bumper support gone (just cut little tabs to keep fog lights)
Removed fenders and cut supports out
Drag wheels all the way around
Rear seat belts gone
So I want to keep the car "Looking" stock inside and out so all the weight reduction I am doing is things you can't see...I don't want it to look stripped...
Car weighed 3260 last time I weighed it and it was before everything listed above except AC...
Here is the stuff from under the dash I removed this past week...
Decided to use some of the empty space for my nitrous relays and fuses...Don't mind some of the taped up stuff I am still not done...and the hole is where I had the heater I have to fix that as well...
Installed new nitrous switches....New hump mount for the bottle and had to install a new micro switch since my old one quit working...also blocked off the water pump where the heater hoses connected...
My Tubular K member came in today so as soon as I get all this stuff wrapped up I will start working on that....
So far
AC and components are gone
Tubular K member
Front bumper support gone (just cut little tabs to keep fog lights)
Removed fenders and cut supports out
Drag wheels all the way around
Rear seat belts gone
So I want to keep the car "Looking" stock inside and out so all the weight reduction I am doing is things you can't see...I don't want it to look stripped...
Car weighed 3260 last time I weighed it and it was before everything listed above except AC...
Here is the stuff from under the dash I removed this past week...
Decided to use some of the empty space for my nitrous relays and fuses...Don't mind some of the taped up stuff I am still not done...and the hole is where I had the heater I have to fix that as well...
Installed new nitrous switches....New hump mount for the bottle and had to install a new micro switch since my old one quit working...also blocked off the water pump where the heater hoses connected...
My Tubular K member came in today so as soon as I get all this stuff wrapped up I will start working on that....
Last edited by MattSapp95_T/A; 12-30-2010 at 12:19 AM. Reason: Added pictures
12-24-2010, 10:51 PM
#2
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I have a camaro however I assume them to be very similar
to get the dash off you must pop the front sail panels off both sides
then the dash has velcrow and tabs holding it down however they are very fragile and very expensive to replace should you break it which is easy to do
then you continue to basically unscrew everything you se and pull the dash out there are a lot of screws take pictures if neseccary.
the airbag is very heavy imo and nice wieght reduction just pull the cover off of it and cut it off and stick it on there to look purty and screw everything back into place
to get the dash off you must pop the front sail panels off both sides
then the dash has velcrow and tabs holding it down however they are very fragile and very expensive to replace should you break it which is easy to do
then you continue to basically unscrew everything you se and pull the dash out there are a lot of screws take pictures if neseccary.
the airbag is very heavy imo and nice wieght reduction just pull the cover off of it and cut it off and stick it on there to look purty and screw everything back into place
12-25-2010, 12:50 AM
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sorry i was vague but steering colum we left up and fine however it would be much easier to take the wheel off
the cluster has only plug that goes into it and like 7 screws bottome cover under the wheel has 4 radio bezel has like 5 sorry but it is kinda explanitory once you start...if you are efficient maybe 3-4 hours... efficient means taking your time haha but seriously grab a chilton and go to town ask back if you have problems
the cluster has only plug that goes into it and like 7 screws bottome cover under the wheel has 4 radio bezel has like 5 sorry but it is kinda explanitory once you start...if you are efficient maybe 3-4 hours... efficient means taking your time haha but seriously grab a chilton and go to town ask back if you have problems
12-25-2010, 01:23 AM
#7
The column can stay in.
There are literally a cupholder's worth of 7mm screws holding everything in (probably about 30+). For the Pontiac, the radio, A/C controls, gauge bezel and gauge cluster all come out. The glovebox door and glovebox also come out. Once you get that far, just keep removing 7mm bolts. There's a TON of them. Then you'll need to separate the dashboard from the ducting, another slew of screws and clips. Many screw in from inside the ducts, so you will really have to feel around. I've found that a thumb ratchet is very handy for getting into those tight places - most of the screws are not tight whatsoever. The airbag will come out with the dashboard.
And a word of advice...be VERY careful with the large plastic top dash panel. It is VERY thin and a replacement is not cheap (good luck finding one used). It is held in with industrial strength velcro, so use a panel puller.
There are literally a cupholder's worth of 7mm screws holding everything in (probably about 30+). For the Pontiac, the radio, A/C controls, gauge bezel and gauge cluster all come out. The glovebox door and glovebox also come out. Once you get that far, just keep removing 7mm bolts. There's a TON of them. Then you'll need to separate the dashboard from the ducting, another slew of screws and clips. Many screw in from inside the ducts, so you will really have to feel around. I've found that a thumb ratchet is very handy for getting into those tight places - most of the screws are not tight whatsoever. The airbag will come out with the dashboard.
And a word of advice...be VERY careful with the large plastic top dash panel. It is VERY thin and a replacement is not cheap (good luck finding one used). It is held in with industrial strength velcro, so use a panel puller.
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12-25-2010, 06:50 AM
#8
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here is a link where u might find some helpful info on dash removal
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-pictures.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-pictures.html
12-25-2010, 09:12 AM
#9
Also if you want pull the evap system, with the line coming under the car, the charcoal canister and the mounting brackets. That is worth about 6-7lbs, also all of the heat sheilding while your under there should get you close to 10lbs if you add the evap system in. I just put a 3rd gen one way breather on mine, before the one way valve I ran a nitro RC car intake filter on mine as the tolerate fuel very well. All of the sound deading material on the fire wall is very heavy also, I remember my father bitching at me while I was cutting that suff out. He was like "your wasting your time that **** dosnt weigh much" into you realise there's another 10lbs of it.
The airbags do weigh alot and shouldnt be to unsafe, just think of it like your going back to 1985 in a TA or Iroc
Also the ABS system is a huge chunk of weight and eye sore, throw a jegs or wilwood P-Valve on there and be done with it. My car used to be daily driven for 6-7 years so its not that bad, might lock the fronts up every once in a while.
Merry Christmas and I will think of some other things to add since I extreme gutted mine over last couple of years.
The airbags do weigh alot and shouldnt be to unsafe, just think of it like your going back to 1985 in a TA or Iroc
Also the ABS system is a huge chunk of weight and eye sore, throw a jegs or wilwood P-Valve on there and be done with it. My car used to be daily driven for 6-7 years so its not that bad, might lock the fronts up every once in a while.
Merry Christmas and I will think of some other things to add since I extreme gutted mine over last couple of years.
12-25-2010, 09:19 AM
#10
Also my TA weighs 3014 pounds before the tubular k-member and also this is with my mild steel headers and complete borla back and straight 3inch punched through the cats. That is with zero sawzall work and still have a ton of lightweight parts to install.
This involves using summit plastic buckets, looking for 2800lbs after k-member, switching to my stainless longtubes with dumps, fuel cell, no electrical as Im going to carb setup, and some creative metal work, cutting, tube bending and welding
This involves using summit plastic buckets, looking for 2800lbs after k-member, switching to my stainless longtubes with dumps, fuel cell, no electrical as Im going to carb setup, and some creative metal work, cutting, tube bending and welding
12-25-2010, 09:22 AM
#11
sorry i was vague but steering colum we left up and fine however it would be much easier to take the wheel off
the cluster has only plug that goes into it and like 7 screws bottome cover under the wheel has 4 radio bezel has like 5 sorry but it is kinda explanitory once you start...if you are efficient maybe 3-4 hours... efficient means taking your time haha but seriously grab a chilton and go to town ask back if you have problems
the cluster has only plug that goes into it and like 7 screws bottome cover under the wheel has 4 radio bezel has like 5 sorry but it is kinda explanitory once you start...if you are efficient maybe 3-4 hours... efficient means taking your time haha but seriously grab a chilton and go to town ask back if you have problems
The column can stay in.
There are literally a cupholder's worth of 7mm screws holding everything in (probably about 30+). For the Pontiac, the radio, A/C controls, gauge bezel and gauge cluster all come out. The glovebox door and glovebox also come out. Once you get that far, just keep removing 7mm bolts. There's a TON of them. Then you'll need to separate the dashboard from the ducting, another slew of screws and clips. Many screw in from inside the ducts, so you will really have to feel around. I've found that a thumb ratchet is very handy for getting into those tight places - most of the screws are not tight whatsoever. The airbag will come out with the dashboard.
And a word of advice...be VERY careful with the large plastic top dash panel. It is VERY thin and a replacement is not cheap (good luck finding one used). It is held in with industrial strength velcro, so use a panel puller.
There are literally a cupholder's worth of 7mm screws holding everything in (probably about 30+). For the Pontiac, the radio, A/C controls, gauge bezel and gauge cluster all come out. The glovebox door and glovebox also come out. Once you get that far, just keep removing 7mm bolts. There's a TON of them. Then you'll need to separate the dashboard from the ducting, another slew of screws and clips. Many screw in from inside the ducts, so you will really have to feel around. I've found that a thumb ratchet is very handy for getting into those tight places - most of the screws are not tight whatsoever. The airbag will come out with the dashboard.
And a word of advice...be VERY careful with the large plastic top dash panel. It is VERY thin and a replacement is not cheap (good luck finding one used). It is held in with industrial strength velcro, so use a panel puller.
here is a link where u might find some helpful info on dash removal
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-pictures.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-pictures.html
Also if you want pull the evap system, with the line coming under the car, the charcoal canister and the mounting brackets. That is worth about 6-7lbs, also all of the heat sheilding while your under there should get you close to 10lbs if you add the evap system in. I just put a 3rd gen one way breather on mine, before the one way valve I ran a nitro RC car intake filter on mine as the tolerate fuel very well. All of the sound deading material on the fire wall is very heavy also, I remember my father bitching at me while I was cutting that suff out. He was like "your wasting your time that **** dosnt weigh much" into you realise there's another 10lbs of it.
The airbags do weigh alot and shouldnt be to unsafe, just think of it like your going back to 1985 in a TA or Iroc
Also the ABS system is a huge chunk of weight and eye sore, throw a jegs or wilwood P-Valve on there and be done with it. My car used to be daily driven for 6-7 years so its not that bad, might lock the fronts up every once in a while.
Merry Christmas and I will think of some other things to add since I extreme gutted mine over last couple of years.
The airbags do weigh alot and shouldnt be to unsafe, just think of it like your going back to 1985 in a TA or Iroc
Also the ABS system is a huge chunk of weight and eye sore, throw a jegs or wilwood P-Valve on there and be done with it. My car used to be daily driven for 6-7 years so its not that bad, might lock the fronts up every once in a while.
Merry Christmas and I will think of some other things to add since I extreme gutted mine over last couple of years.
But Yea let me know if you think of anything else..
Thanks and Merry Christmas to you too and everyone else!! hope everyone has a safe holiday!!
12-25-2010, 09:28 AM
#12
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my advice to the OP is not to remove the rubber thing covering the fire wall unless if itsfor an off road application. i know it weighs quite some but with it removed alot of heat and noise will be transfered into the car from the engine bay, ur gonna hate driving ur car around,,,,
12-25-2010, 10:07 AM
#14
my advice to the OP is not to remove the rubber thing covering the fire wall unless if itsfor an off road application. i know it weighs quite some but with it removed alot of heat and noise will be transfered into the car from the engine bay, ur gonna hate driving ur car around,,,,
40lbs is def worth the effort though...I think I will do the dash stuff and the door bars....I think the car will be somewhere around 3000 when I am done...
Which steel braket are you talking about for the airbag? and will the dash sag or do anything weird without it??
Thanks guys
Matt
12-25-2010, 11:42 AM
#16
1. The carpet weighs a lot. Mine was 45lbs iirc. You can take the carpet out and scrape all of the sound deadening off of it and it will shed an honest 20lbs right there. A better way is to head to your local Pepboys and pick up 2 rolls of lightweight carpet in a similar color. I have a roll sitting here which is honestly 5lbs if that. Take your time with spray glue and it will conform to the floor very well. You would probably need a roll and a half to cover an f-bod.
2. Door bars need to come out. The door will feel noticeably lighter when you take them out. You are at the ET level where you need a cage anyways.
3. Door panel mod. If you remove the stock door panels you will see that they weigh 8.5lbs each. They are pretty thick but mainly just fabric. I was thinking about cutting the bottom section off (the part that looks like carpet) and just using some of the lightweight carpet material from Pepboys and gluing it to the door. It would keep the top half of the panel stock including the handle but would probably shed 3-4lbs per side.
4. There is a very thick sound deadening panel right at your feet that flows along the firewall area. It is a thick rubberlike material. You can cut it out in sections with a razor blade.
5. Ditch your rear speakers.
Your car will be a lot louder inside especially if you have an exhaust that dumps before the rear axle.
2. Door bars need to come out. The door will feel noticeably lighter when you take them out. You are at the ET level where you need a cage anyways.
3. Door panel mod. If you remove the stock door panels you will see that they weigh 8.5lbs each. They are pretty thick but mainly just fabric. I was thinking about cutting the bottom section off (the part that looks like carpet) and just using some of the lightweight carpet material from Pepboys and gluing it to the door. It would keep the top half of the panel stock including the handle but would probably shed 3-4lbs per side.
4. There is a very thick sound deadening panel right at your feet that flows along the firewall area. It is a thick rubberlike material. You can cut it out in sections with a razor blade.
5. Ditch your rear speakers.
Your car will be a lot louder inside especially if you have an exhaust that dumps before the rear axle.
12-25-2010, 11:57 AM
#17
1. The carpet weighs a lot. Mine was 45lbs iirc. You can take the carpet out and scrape all of the sound deadening off of it and it will shed an honest 20lbs right there. A better way is to head to your local Pepboys and pick up 2 rolls of lightweight carpet in a similar color. I have a roll sitting here which is honestly 5lbs if that. Take your time with spray glue and it will conform to the floor very well. You would probably need a roll and a half to cover an f-bod.
2. Door bars need to come out. The door will feel noticeably lighter when you take them out. You are at the ET level where you need a cage anyways.
3. Door panel mod. If you remove the stock door panels you will see that they weigh 8.5lbs each. They are pretty thick but mainly just fabric. I was thinking about cutting the bottom section off (the part that looks like carpet) and just using some of the lightweight carpet material from Pepboys and gluing it to the door. It would keep the top half of the panel stock including the handle but would probably shed 3-4lbs per side.
4. There is a very thick sound deadening panel right at your feet that flows along the firewall area. It is a thick rubberlike material. You can cut it out in sections with a razor blade.
5. Ditch your rear speakers.
Your car will be a lot louder inside especially if you have an exhaust that dumps before the rear axle.
2. Door bars need to come out. The door will feel noticeably lighter when you take them out. You are at the ET level where you need a cage anyways.
3. Door panel mod. If you remove the stock door panels you will see that they weigh 8.5lbs each. They are pretty thick but mainly just fabric. I was thinking about cutting the bottom section off (the part that looks like carpet) and just using some of the lightweight carpet material from Pepboys and gluing it to the door. It would keep the top half of the panel stock including the handle but would probably shed 3-4lbs per side.
4. There is a very thick sound deadening panel right at your feet that flows along the firewall area. It is a thick rubberlike material. You can cut it out in sections with a razor blade.
5. Ditch your rear speakers.
Your car will be a lot louder inside especially if you have an exhaust that dumps before the rear axle.
Yea door bars will be coming out this next week too...I have been looking at a wolf cage with the low swung door bars...
was your door bars easy to come out?
I may do the carpet too...the car isn't very comfortable anyways so I am not too worried about it being loud....I just don't know how much I trust myself molding in new carpet..lol
I have taken out some of the thick sound deadening when I installed my shifter....... Which I did notice more noise....
Prob won't mess with my door panels for now..once I get to the point I can't get any lighter without messing with aesthetics i need to build a bigger motor..lol
unless my car is was like yours and knocking on 10's door NA...I doubt mine will be that fast though..I also need to take out the rear power antenna....maybe I can sale it since it actually still works..lol
12-25-2010, 12:26 PM
#18
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heres some info on door bars...i'm Warbird there... merry christmas ...BTW Matt ..the reply about your rockers you were wanting to sell me was a sarcastic joke.....
Michael
http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...-With-Pictures!
Michael
http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...-With-Pictures!
12-25-2010, 12:54 PM
#19
heres some info on door bars...i'm Warbird there... merry christmas ...BTW Matt ..the reply about your rockers you were wanting to sell me was a sarcastic joke.....
Michael
http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...-With-Pictures!
Michael
http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...-With-Pictures!
My wife and I have had some of the worst arguments ever because she didn't get my sarcasm or joking without actually hearing my voice...
But we are all good I hadn't though anymore about it...Actually sold the rockers on ebay and made a killing..lol enough to pay for my guide plates, new studs and Scorpion rockers...
Thanks though!
I will check out that link too...I need to get some weight off this pig...looking for DEEP 11s on motor and 10's on the spray...
Matt
