Car back from the mechanic - STILL won't shift while started
#61
TECH Regular
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Alright how the hell do you remedy this?
I could be wrong but I if I remember correctly, last year when I was having similar trouble with my clutch dragging, someone, maybe wrd1972, told me that they were able to grind down the bottom of the 'T' that the fork pivots off of. That would draw the clutchfork's pivot point inwards away from the pressure plate.
I never had to do it myself so I have no idea how much you'd need to grind off to make it work. It just sucks because you simply can't grind down that retainer clip on the fork without destroying it, and you need it on there.
Hopefully someone who's tried this before will chime in, or better yet maybe someone with a better idea than me.
#62
Village Troll ![](http://jameskellock.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/rsman.jpg)
![](http://jameskellock.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/rsman.jpg)
iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
From the looks of that clutch fork picture it would appear it was not fully seated onto the TB, as in, whoever did the clutch did not push the fork onto the TB as far as it should have gone. This may be your entire problem. It could have caused an uneven load on the TB/clutch fingers causing the clip to distort, break and, of course the clutch most likely would not have fully disengaged when the pedal was depressed. I would bet that is the cause of all your problems.
#63
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
OP, I really hope you figure this thing out ASAP. However I cant think of any advice to add other than what I have already. I know exactly how you feel, the LT1 clutch kicked my *** back (badly) many years ago and punished me with the exact same problems. Again it turned out to be difference in marcel disk thickness compressed vs. uncompressed. The difference there was just too large for the stock clutch components to overcome in terms of performing disk release.
Keeping my fingers crossed.
#64
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (12)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Obviously you cant do any clearancing on the retainer spring and clearly there is a good reason why there is contact here, just need to figure out what it is. So the question remains, why is the pressure plate so damn close to the fork to begin with? I have never had nor seen this issue in the past.
Do you have a flywheel shim installed between the crank and the flywheel? If you do and its of excessive thickness, that would push the pressure plate and PP toward the rear. IMO, a flywheel shim is pointless following turning the flywheel because the hydros will adapt and set a new home position to work from.
So what else can push the pressure plate toward the rear? Grasping at straws here but thats where your at. Is the crank the OEM crank? Could the thrust bearing be so trashed that the crank is now sitting further toward the rear than it should?
So what can cause the fork to sit further toward the front? If the pivot points on the fork or T-fastener are so badly worn, I guess it could. Like SSRRR said, the fork not being properly set would screw things up to.
Regarding the T-fastener. The early Mcleod street twins had a release problem and the solution was a different bore master cylinder that provided more push to the slave thus making the PP open up more. This solved the release issue but now the fork would hit the pressure plate. Their solution to this was for you to machine .050" IIRC off of the bottom of the T-fastener to pull the fork toward the rear. I guess the Mcleod ST PP installed just naturally sits further to the rear than the OEM spec PP. I have never owned one but that just makes since.
Now back years ago when the clutch kicked my *** and I was grasping at straws too, I had the T-fastener machined down .050" and it did nothing for the release problem. Thinking about it now, cutting down the T-fastener cant do anything for disk release but it could do a lot for providing needed clearance between the fork and the PP if the two are making contact. I am still running that shortened T-fastener to this day with no known issues.
I am anxious to here if you have a flywheel shim installed.
Do you have a flywheel shim installed between the crank and the flywheel? If you do and its of excessive thickness, that would push the pressure plate and PP toward the rear. IMO, a flywheel shim is pointless following turning the flywheel because the hydros will adapt and set a new home position to work from.
So what else can push the pressure plate toward the rear? Grasping at straws here but thats where your at. Is the crank the OEM crank? Could the thrust bearing be so trashed that the crank is now sitting further toward the rear than it should?
So what can cause the fork to sit further toward the front? If the pivot points on the fork or T-fastener are so badly worn, I guess it could. Like SSRRR said, the fork not being properly set would screw things up to.
Regarding the T-fastener. The early Mcleod street twins had a release problem and the solution was a different bore master cylinder that provided more push to the slave thus making the PP open up more. This solved the release issue but now the fork would hit the pressure plate. Their solution to this was for you to machine .050" IIRC off of the bottom of the T-fastener to pull the fork toward the rear. I guess the Mcleod ST PP installed just naturally sits further to the rear than the OEM spec PP. I have never owned one but that just makes since.
Now back years ago when the clutch kicked my *** and I was grasping at straws too, I had the T-fastener machined down .050" and it did nothing for the release problem. Thinking about it now, cutting down the T-fastener cant do anything for disk release but it could do a lot for providing needed clearance between the fork and the PP if the two are making contact. I am still running that shortened T-fastener to this day with no known issues.
I am anxious to here if you have a flywheel shim installed.
#65
Village Troll ![](http://jameskellock.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/rsman.jpg)
![](http://jameskellock.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/rsman.jpg)
iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here's what I encountered with my pressure plate:
![](http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx233/brian96597/DSC09678.jpg)
The points where it was ground is where it was making contact:
![](http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx233/brian96597/DSC09676.jpg)
I'm telling you I fully believe your problem has been nothing more than the clutch fork not being pushed in all the way towards the TB.
#66
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Do you have a flywheel shim installed between the crank and the flywheel? If you do and its of excessive thickness, that would push the pressure plate and PP toward the rear. IMO, a flywheel shim is pointless following turning the flywheel because the hydros will adapt and set a new home position to work from.
So what else can push the pressure plate toward the rear? Grasping at straws here but thats where your at. Is the crank the OEM crank? Could the thrust bearing be so trashed that the crank is now sitting further toward the rear than it should?
So what can cause the fork to sit further toward the front? If the pivot points on the fork or T-fastener are so badly worn, I guess it could. Like SSRRR said, the fork not being properly set would screw things up to.
...
I am anxious to here if you have a flywheel shim installed.
So what else can push the pressure plate toward the rear? Grasping at straws here but thats where your at. Is the crank the OEM crank? Could the thrust bearing be so trashed that the crank is now sitting further toward the rear than it should?
So what can cause the fork to sit further toward the front? If the pivot points on the fork or T-fastener are so badly worn, I guess it could. Like SSRRR said, the fork not being properly set would screw things up to.
...
I am anxious to here if you have a flywheel shim installed.
#68
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I got everything installed and started her up and I heard the fork rubbing against the pressure plate so I turned it off - not a nice sound at ALL by the way. I went to adjust the master cylinder but he (last mechanic) seems to have made it differently than I've ever seen before so I'm going to need to call him to see how to adjust it.
#71
TECH Regular
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm starting to think that grinding down the T is gonna be his only solution here. Grind down a little at a time, lots of trial and error. Unless someone can figure out exactly why his clutch and flywheel are sitting so close to the transmission, very strange.
#72
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Is this most likely all ONE related problem, or do I have two different issues occurring now?
#73
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm just confused to why I would need to do this. Many people have ran the CC and the Ram without having to grind the fork - I'm just worried there's something else going on too.
#75
Village Troll ![](http://jameskellock.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/rsman.jpg)
![](http://jameskellock.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/rsman.jpg)
iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I measured both pressure plate alone and with clutch on a Spec Stage 4, Stage 3+ and RAM and they all measure close to the same. I can't remember the numbers off hand, but the difference was .010. Don't think that's enough to make contact. The only other item it has to be I would imagine is the flywheel? I dunno. I think you should just grind your fork the same depth as you see in the pic I supplied and adjust your clutch M/C accordingly and you'll be fine. JMO.
#76
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I measured both pressure plate alone and with clutch on a Spec Stage 4, Stage 3+ and RAM and they all measure close to the same. I can't remember the numbers off hand, but the difference was .010. Don't think that's enough to make contact. The only other item it has to be I would imagine is the flywheel? I dunno. I think you should just grind your fork the same depth as you see in the pic I supplied and adjust your clutch M/C accordingly and you'll be fine. JMO.
#77
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So I completely removed the slave cylinder and the fork is still rubbing against the pressure plate. This was never a problem before, so I'll have to add it to my timeline of events.
And I guess the mechanic didn't install an adjustable master cylinder. He just extended the rod and pressed it back together. So I'll probably have to take the master cylinder out and do it right, but there's obviously another problem now.
And I guess the mechanic didn't install an adjustable master cylinder. He just extended the rod and pressed it back together. So I'll probably have to take the master cylinder out and do it right, but there's obviously another problem now.
#78
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
New Chart:
![](https://img834.imageshack.us/img834/8264/clutchchart.jpg)
So the problem has gone from the car not shifting while started, to the car not shifting while started AND the fork rubbing against the pressure plate.
![](https://img834.imageshack.us/img834/8264/clutchchart.jpg)
So the problem has gone from the car not shifting while started, to the car not shifting while started AND the fork rubbing against the pressure plate.
Last edited by Counted Out; 01-06-2011 at 06:33 PM.