Lawhead

iTrader: (14)

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I do apologize that you feel what I've stated are personal attacks. That is not what I am about. Now, if I were to call you a dumbfuck or dipshit or a knownothing, then I would consider that a personal attack, but alas, I am not. I just think what you have displayed in this thread as well as others is nonsense and it shows, hence the pic which portrays the thousands of replies from those, who have no idea, have typed in years past.
As stated, a 28" radial will work fine with a manual driveline, and no matter how strong you think you've built means for torque to travel through, there is always a weak link. Always and forever. Care to counter that with something other than your whining?
What say you about those who run the 275 radial class and launch off a trans brake?

05HD

I am not going to reply to any more off topic commentary.

Feel free to look back thru this post and quote where I told the OP he needed a stronger driveline. In fact, I have done the exact opposite of that and pointed out that there is in fact always one component weaker than the rest. I recommended the OP use bias ply tires for that exact reason. Bias ply tires have a softer sidewall than radials and that softer sidewall absorbs much more shock load, the primary parts killer on well driven stick shift cars. Your tire recommendation would absorb significantly less shock for the OPs driveline and increase the chance of him finding that weak link we both agree is definitely there waiting to be discovered.

Those are all statements of fact. Care to dispute any of them?

05HD

The correct operation of a transbrake includes preloading the driveline before activation.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I have been. Did I not state something about there being enough sidewall on a 28" radial to handle the shock to the driveline? What you state may be true for a 26X16" tire, but not for a 28".
I do not see how the driveline beyond the transmission can be loaded before launch. Care to explain? I am no automatic expert, however from what I have been told by those who know more about it than I do, a transbrake launch can be as violent as a launch from a manual.

As far as the other mumbojumbo, you came into this thread, repeating crap that has been preached like the voodoo regarding 26" radials, and promising the OP that "carnage" would ensue if he didn't use a bias ply tire. Retarded.

cgperformance1320

iTrader: (1)

imo id run a radial
if u run a slick make sure you get one with a stiff side wall soft side wall slicks dont like the shock from a stick shift
and heres a pic of a my on 295 M/T's on a 8 wide rim with 5.5"BS so you can see what they look like on a car
i had to roll my finders but mine squats realy hard on the right rear left tire didnt rub

05HD

You haven't disputed any of the facts that I stated. You only say that 28" radials are capable of absorbing "enough" driveline shock. That would depend on just how much shock load the driveline sees and just how strong the weakest link is, wouldn't it? I make my original post based on the facts available about the OPs car. He just broke the 10 bolt, the original weakest link.

I say a bias ply absorbs more shock than an equivalent size radial every time. Stick shift cars are less prone to breaking parts on bias plies. This is absolutely true and no logical argument can be made against it regardless of tire size or any other variable. Call me a parrot if you like, I know I am correct from real world experience. Some things you hear on the internet are actually true. If you don't believe me, head down to your local racing tire dealer and poke the sidewalls on a few tires. Make sure to post back what you find out about sidewall stiffness for all of the readers on here.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I completely agree that it is possible for a bias ply to absorb more shock, however along with power output it also depends on the size of the sidewall. I have said this over and over, with a 28" radial the sidewall is taller and is able to absorb more shock and I fully believe, along with others who have posted in this thread as well as the one the OP linked that a 28" tire is perfectly acceptable. It seems you are the only one here who is preaching the guaranteed voodoo/doom and gloom along with boasting your alleged experience.
Just like the other thread where I tried to get you to answer how an engine decelerates I see you have completely avoided your claim on how a trans brake is able to load the driveline past the transmission. It is things like this that makes me believe you are a hack. Please enlighten me how it is possible for a transbrake to load from the trans to the tires and I will then change my opinion. Until then, parrot/hack.

cgperformance1320

iTrader: (1)

05hd is right though on a stick car a slick is better at absorbing the shock no matter what radial u run. but we have found a stiff sidewall slick on our stick car works best it runs 9.70's 1.4 short times

05HD

Alright, I'm glad you have agreed that you were wrong on the whole tire issue. It shows promise for your ability to remember to continue to breathe continuously.

My not answering you doesn't indicate that I do not know the answer. I also absolutely do not care even the slightest bit what you think of me. What is the relevance of the proper procedure to preloading the driveline on a transbraked auto to this thread?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

It has to do with those who are far faster running a 275 radial off a transbrake, which can be an extremely violent launch, and they don't seem to experience the same voodoo "carnage" you promise. At the OP's power level there is no reason why he should be concerned running a 28" radial. As stated, the generic crap you've been preaching is more accurate for those running a 26X16" tire. Not so much for a 28".
Your avoiding and not answering yet another one of your ridiculous claims and then trying to desperately spin what I say to fit your idiotic agenda just proves once again you have no idea what you are talking about. Those on this site as well as others who've mouthed off about whatever experience they want to claim have always been proven a joke. You are pretty much there.

05HD

Since you have been prowling that other thread desperately looking for ammunition against me in your little internet war, did you bother to watch the video someone posted of Dave Hance's Mustang setting the record at Bradenton? Did the launch look like a clutch dump? He knows how to preload his driveline, just like I do and you don't. I don't mouth off about anything on here, unlike yourself. I am here trying to share my experience and knowledge to help the rest of the people here. You know, the reason this forum is here?

Now, since I don't feel like helping you learn, go and figure out how to preload the driveline on a transbrake car for yourself and then come back here and apologize to me again.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I will apologize to you right now because I pity the fool- I am sorry you feel it necessary to try and establish yourself as someone who knows something. That just isn't the case, it doesn't seem to be working for you and it's painfully obvious.

05HD

So, I take it you went and googled and found how to preload the driveline? I'm glad that even you learned something from my posts. Now, go crawl back under your rock.

OP, go with the bias ply.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I told you, I am no expert when it comes to autos or loading up the driveline with a trans brake. Please explain how that can be done?

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

ohhh yea i saw that in my pics from the shootout.....im going stiff wall next time.....i think i out grew the soft walls now lol........check these out.....these
are hoosier drag 28x10's at 12psi........they are a little interesting to drive like that too on the high end at 130mph+ too lol




yea i been going 1.4 short times also......im thinking i will prob speed up with the stiff wall.......im wasting alot of energy wrinkling the slicks and putting the rim on the ground instead of using that energy to go forward......

you ladies wanna knock it off now and stay on topic???

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

It's perfectly on topic. The point being made with a trans brake is that when used, they are extremely violent on the drivetrain. There are f-body radial cars using them who are far faster and are not experiencing the "carnage" 05HD promises will happen with his 15 years of broken parts and knowledge.
I can't remember if you have an auto? Since 05HD is holding his secrets so dear to him, can you explain to me how you can load up the drivetrain while the transbrake is engaged? Thanks.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

im just trying to reduce the bull$hit and have a good convo thats all man.......we're here to learn......

now back on topic........i may or may not have just installed a transbrake in my 4l60E ........as far as i know there is no way to "preload" the suspension/driveline from the trans back with a tbrake.......the brake as im sure you know locks the trans in first and reverse to hold the outputshaft from turning.....hypothetically like in my case with at 5300 stall the motor should go to 5300rpm....when the button is released reverse dis-engages and the energy is allowed to spin the output shaft...........its essiantially like me having a stick and dumping the clutch at 5300 lol.....but i still get a little torque multiplication after that........ohhhh man i cant wait its OTB time!!! haha

now i do know there are systems avilable to allow you to "creep" the car forward by pulse width modulating the soleniod for reverse....however i cant see how that could efficently be used to load the drivetrain.......

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I understand that, but in the conversation of learning there are those who try to get away with stating things they have absolutely no idea about which adds to the bullshit of learning. It's been the same pattern forever. Those who are fairly new to the forum make ridiculous claims, then try to boast their alleged experience as their defense with nothing to back it up and then they get pissy when called out on their bullshit.
That's the way I have been told by those who have used a transbrake before, in a f-body, on a 275 drag radial and they are doing fine. All I was trying to do was to get some clarification from the 15 year parts breaking veteran for his claim of:
If you want to look for bullshit in this thread, look no further.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

^ i know that again.........its our job as readers of this thread to determine what is good infortmation and what is not by broadening our outlook and acquiring infortmation from more than one source........im not calling anybody right or wrong.......im just saying there are other places other than an infortmational post like this to start bickering back and forth ........lets talk gear/tire and brakes!!!