LT1 Crankcase Vacuum Pump Kit in Development
#21
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Having one on a daily driver is ok. You will most likely have it cycling oil through the pump for a mild performance street engine. There are different ways of doing things depending on how extreme your engine is. I'm no expert though. I'm just trying to get this kit made.
#24
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yes, but they're not meant for a daily driver type. They build a lot of heat in the pump depending on how much vacuum you're pulling, and how long/hard (yes long and hard ) you're running them. The biggest benefits are seen when you're running an appropriate ring package, and pulling say 15+" or so. But at that level you're looking at wristpin problems (lack of oiling) with extended run time, and sucking a substantial amount of oil out of the crankcase. At lower levels of depression you'll still see benefits, but for 800 bucks I can think of quite a few alternatives on a street car.
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This is a terrible picture, but it will get you an idea. from the center of the top bolt on my a/c delete pulley to the top part of the frame rail I had just over 3in, to the rail. The red line represents the rail.
On the underside of the car, I have the tape measure pressed against the rail and I have the lower bolt right around 4.5in.
On the underside of the car, I have the tape measure pressed against the rail and I have the lower bolt right around 4.5in.
Last edited by fex77k; 02-25-2011 at 12:15 AM.
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Does anyone know if they make a 6inch crank balancer that fits an LT1???
We're still working on how everything is going to mount. We may put the vacuum pump in the stock alternator location and the alternator where the A/C is.
We're still working on how everything is going to mount. We may put the vacuum pump in the stock alternator location and the alternator where the A/C is.
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I need to know how far the center line of the alternator pulley (in stock location) is from the top underside of the hood. I realize this is very difficult with the engine actually in the car. So I was able to get inside the engine bay and close the hood, then measure from the top of the frame rail to the hood. That will be our common reference point.
Can somebody please measure from the CENTER of the alternator pulley to the top of the frame rail??
With that information, I can determine the distance from the alternator pulley and hood. Thank you
Can somebody please measure from the CENTER of the alternator pulley to the top of the frame rail??
With that information, I can determine the distance from the alternator pulley and hood. Thank you
#36
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I need to know how far the center line of the alternator pulley (in stock location) is from the top underside of the hood. I realize this is very difficult with the engine actually in the car. So I was able to get inside the engine bay and close the hood, then measure from the top of the frame rail to the hood. That will be our common reference point.
Can somebody please measure from the CENTER of the alternator pulley to the top of the frame rail??
With that information, I can determine the distance from the alternator pulley and hood. Thank you
Can somebody please measure from the CENTER of the alternator pulley to the top of the frame rail??
With that information, I can determine the distance from the alternator pulley and hood. Thank you
My motor has brand new motor mounts on it, so my motor will sit as it should from the factory.
Last edited by fex77k; 03-07-2011 at 04:39 PM.
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Well it seems putting the vacuum pump where is A/C was is no longer an option. Too complicated.
Last idea is putting the vacuum pump where the alternator was. This is still a good option because there is enough room for their larger pumps. You would only need to relocate your alternator. Good thing is any alternator relocation will work if it still has the top of the accessory bracket. You can even keep A/C.
The vacuum pump will have to be mounted a little higher than the alternator was so I'm still not sure it will fit under the hood. I won't know till someone measures from the alternator pulley to the frame rail.
Last idea is putting the vacuum pump where the alternator was. This is still a good option because there is enough room for their larger pumps. You would only need to relocate your alternator. Good thing is any alternator relocation will work if it still has the top of the accessory bracket. You can even keep A/C.
The vacuum pump will have to be mounted a little higher than the alternator was so I'm still not sure it will fit under the hood. I won't know till someone measures from the alternator pulley to the frame rail.
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We were able mount the vacuum pump where the alternator was. It should be an easy bolt on deal. Just need to relocate the alternator and have a smaller crankshaft pulley. I have the bracket and pump being shipped to me now. I'll let you all know how it goes.