LT1 Crankcase Vacuum Pump Kit in Development
1. Will need new centerbolt valve covers with the GM heads
2. Will have to re rout wiring to the alternator. I am no good with wiring and I have the fuel pump harness linked up with it.
Is there a way to measure crank case pressure?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
Will call GZ to confirm. Just have 2 other issues to solve.
1. Will need new centerbolt valve covers with the GM heads
2. Will have to re rout wiring to the alternator. I am no good with wiring and I have the fuel pump harness linked up with it.
Is there a way to measure crank case pressure?
1. Will need new centerbolt valve covers with the GM heads
2. Will have to re rout wiring to the alternator. I am no good with wiring and I have the fuel pump harness linked up with it.
Is there a way to measure crank case pressure?
Hook up a vacuum/pressure gauge somewhere on the crankcase like the valve cover. I have mind tapped into the stock PCV port on intake.
From the dead.
I used this setup and it works perfect! I put the pump where the AC was and left the Alt in the stock location. Everything fits like factory.
All of the lines went on without any issue and I used all 12AN parts. I was able to use the stock length belt and tensioner. I will have to take a few pictures tonight and host them up. I wish I would have taken a few before I put it all together. The pump is almost invisible down there...
I didnt change the Balancer as the cost to change it and all of the blower parts really outweighed the cost if this pump fails. I have a $1000 cog drive set up I could give crap if a $300 pump fails Ill just buy another or have it fixed. I spoke to GZ and they said it should hold up find even spinning it to almost 7k rpms. If the Pump fails it is max $150 to rebuild it plush shipping.
I used this setup and it works perfect! I put the pump where the AC was and left the Alt in the stock location. Everything fits like factory.
All of the lines went on without any issue and I used all 12AN parts. I was able to use the stock length belt and tensioner. I will have to take a few pictures tonight and host them up. I wish I would have taken a few before I put it all together. The pump is almost invisible down there...
I didnt change the Balancer as the cost to change it and all of the blower parts really outweighed the cost if this pump fails. I have a $1000 cog drive set up I could give crap if a $300 pump fails Ill just buy another or have it fixed. I spoke to GZ and they said it should hold up find even spinning it to almost 7k rpms. If the Pump fails it is max $150 to rebuild it plush shipping.
Question, since the pump pulls a bit of oil out, it just goes to a catch can correct? There is no feed back into the block. The pressure is just a one way ticket out of the block. Just making sure so I get the full picture.
Recommend a gauge for me. Will take a trip to the local Pep Boys tomorrow. Thanx
My balancer pulley is the stock size ATI Balancer I dont care about tearing up the pump. It will only spin so many times before it quits. when it does its cheap to repair ($150) or replace. I used the stock length belt as well. I spoke to GZ and they said they have never seen one fail from over spinning it. They said the pump will just not produce anymore vaccum.
Here are a few crappy iphone pics, I couldnt find my memory card for my camera. Dont mind the ugly pump pulley it was used for mock up, it has since been painted.
Here are a few crappy iphone pics, I couldnt find my memory card for my camera. Dont mind the ugly pump pulley it was used for mock up, it has since been painted.
The washers have been replaced too lol again these were the moc up pictures. I built a proper spacer for the bottom bolt. 
I found the pulley lying on the ground at the local pick apart. It was next to an old S10 truck and it worked perfect. I paid $2.00 for it. The cheapest thing I have ever bought for the car. The can of spray paint was more than the pulley hahah
I found the pulley lying on the ground at the local pick apart. It was next to an old S10 truck and it worked perfect. I paid $2.00 for it. The cheapest thing I have ever bought for the car. The can of spray paint was more than the pulley hahah Ralls,
How much oil ar eyou getting in your catch can? I seem to be getting a lot
Thanks
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Even helps NA cars. On my 383" putting that belt on was an easy 10twhp. If the engine is new when you put it on run it 6 pulls or 8 pulls before putting the belt on. Mine had the mandrel in the dampener & gilmer belt.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, Virginia
Not that much. About an ounce every 500 miles. I drain it every once in a while. It's mostly water though. The oil is milky from being mixed with the water. Do you have a baffle on the valve cover side? It might be sucking up oil drops from the pushrods if not.
I bought the same items that you listed in your build. Which direction did you point the starmachine breather?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, Virginia
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 50
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You need to have a sealed system to make a vacuum pump system work. It will be impossible to create vacuum with a huge vacuum leak like a PCV valve. I work at GZ Motorsports and built the prototype bracet in the pictures. We have had only a very few requests to develop a system for these motors, but we'll give all of the support we can.
Bill, WWW.GZmotorsports.com
Bill, WWW.GZmotorsports.com
Ralls,
We are talking oil all over the place out of the breather and about an inch in the moroso puke tank after about 5 passes on the street :/
When you say facing up are you saying pointed toward the intake?
I am pulling around 11" of vacuum @5500 rpms
We are talking oil all over the place out of the breather and about an inch in the moroso puke tank after about 5 passes on the street :/
When you say facing up are you saying pointed toward the intake?
I am pulling around 11" of vacuum @5500 rpms
You need to have a sealed system to make a vacuum pump system work. It will be impossible to create vacuum with a huge vacuum leak like a PCV valve. I work at GZ Motorsports and built the prototype bracet in the pictures. We have had only a very few requests to develop a system for these motors, but we'll give all of the support we can.
Bill, WWW.GZmotorsports.com
Bill, WWW.GZmotorsports.com
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, Virginia
For reference, I just drained out my vented catch can. Filled up half a red Hefty cup with watery-milky oil. I can't remember the last time I drained it, but I know I have at least been on the dyno with dozens of pulls, 150 miles driving, and a few runs on the street.
Are you getting straight up clean oil in the catch can or is it nasty blow by and condensation?
Which direction is this pointed in the valve cover?
http://www.starvacuumpumps.com/products/STR.06.11.001
Which catch can did you go with? Never mind lol same one I bought. Where did you mount yours?
I am getting just oil, it's pretty black though
Thanks!
http://www.starvacuumpumps.com/products/STR.06.11.001
Which catch can did you go with? Never mind lol same one I bought. Where did you mount yours?
I am getting just oil, it's pretty black though
Thanks!
Last edited by ramair96ws6; Jan 11, 2013 at 10:21 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, Virginia
Oh I see what you mean now. The cut out is facing downwards (towards header) so it doesn't pool up in oil. Is that how you did it?
I have a Moroso catch can. No different than yours except it's plastic.
I have a Moroso catch can. No different than yours except it's plastic.