LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

How are the LT1's stroked?

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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 12:58 PM
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Default How are the LT1's stroked?

Meaning Iknow the SBC 400 crank is used in the early 383's. Whats used to achieve this in these engines? Is it just that? Not to many people know that i've talked to. Their mostly into older engines.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 01:00 PM
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3.75in SBC crank for 1 piece rear main seal
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 01:04 PM
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What did they come in?
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by VinR1
3.75in SBC crank for 1 piece rear main seal
This, and the pistons to go with it. You can spring for longer rods but it's not required. Just decide what you want before you buy the pistons. Once your pin height is selected theres no changing it.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by czechnuts
What did they come in?
They came in nothing it's an aftermarket crank. Several companies make the crank with a 1 peice and the appropriate sized mains.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 01:09 PM
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What about rod length? Is is standard like i would imagine or is it changed?
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 01:13 PM
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Its whatever you want... rod length has nothing to do with stroke length or cubic inches.

Most run a 6" rod however
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 01:15 PM
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On the rod thing don't even contemplate using a 400 rod. There are to many 5.7 and 6.0 piston choices to even consider using the short 400 rod.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 01:38 PM
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he's probably wondering how the 383 is achieved with things other than the crank. the bore goes from 4.000 to 4.030 to achieve a 383.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by gregrob
Its whatever you want... rod length has nothing to do with stroke length or cubic inches.

Most run a 6" rod however
Yep and the argument between which rod benefits what stroke has been beaten to death without any real proof as to which one is the real advantage for any given setup.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 01:57 PM
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Oh no I understand. I was just curious what was differant. Meaning that i knew the 400 crank was need to make the 350 a 383. Also that they used the standard 5.7 350 rod. Just wondered what it took in the lt1. It was just something I didnt really hear to much about. Just that it had been done.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by czechnuts
Oh no I understand. I was just curious what was differant. Meaning that i knew the 400 crank was need to make the 350 a 383. Also that they used the standard 5.7 350 rod. Just wondered what it took in the lt1. It was just something I didnt really hear to much about. Just that it had been done.
lt1 is the same thing
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 02:05 PM
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Ok so the crank that was recomended and a bore then? To bad that crank didnt come in anything. And the 400 one isnt the same correct? I never thought it was just want to back up my thought. We all know if we could find one for less than a full price we would. Thanks though...really!
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 02:06 PM
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LT1/SBC is all the same when it comes to the bottom end, except for 1/2 piece rear main seals.

355 - Stock 3.48 stroke, 0.030" overbore
383 - 3.75" stroke, 0.030" overbore
396 - 3.875" stroke, 0.030" overbore

5.7 or 6" rods are acceptable. There are a ton of pistons out there ready to go off-the-shelf for both rod lengths and your choice of stroke, and they give piston CC numbers and approximate compression ratios.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 02:09 PM
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YES ENGLISH!!!! lol Ok so find a 1 piece. That makes sense.

Last edited by czechnuts; Feb 21, 2011 at 02:13 PM. Reason: just to add
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 04:10 PM
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And do yourself a favor, don't get a cast crank.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 04:56 PM
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if you really want to use a 400 crank go for and just get a matching 1-2 pc seal conversion for about $150 and a matching oil pan for another few hundo, or just buy the aftermarket crank. lol Sorry for sounding like an a$$ but to answer your question simply, the 1 pc rear main with either a 3.75", 3.85", or 4" stroke did not come in any engine from the factory to fit the lovely LT1. It's all aftermarket now-a-days. Seems like all the traditional skills have gone the wayside and everyone builds the same thing from the same guys. IMHO there is no experimentation anymore and no one is willing to try something else without proven results.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 10:38 PM
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Ok so aside from the obvious internals, what else would I have to do to complete this? Meaning TB, bigger injectors, etc? What kind of tune would I need or would be recommended? Like say would just a simple hand held hypertech work as example?
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by czechnuts
Ok so aside from the obvious internals, what else would I have to do to complete this? Meaning TB, bigger injectors, etc? What kind of tune would I need or would be recommended? Like say would just a simple hand held hypertech work as example?
The overwhelming consensus is that the Hypertech "power" programming is junk and not worth a damn, especially when compared to a mail-order tune (which is actually CHEAPER). Useful for gear ratio changes and earlier fan operation, but the engine tuning should certainly be avoided.

Your fuel and tuning requirements rely far more on the valvetrain than the overall displacement. The heads, cam, intake, and exhaust make the power, not the rotating assembly/displacement.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 10:53 PM
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Ok so it shouldn't be effected? I just used them as an example. Who would be recommended for any future tuning? Not to mention the cable to do so?
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