LT1 lid
02-25-2011, 09:20 AM
#1
LT1 lid yeah, thats not a typo
I purchased this lid for next to nothing and did some experimenting on it. Its a Granatelli and the original purchaser grinded the **** out of it and still couldnt make it fit his base. Frankly, it looked like a blindfolded drunken monkey made it as the rear (4) tabs pointed in all different directions, the 104mm outlet interfered with the base by over a half-inch, the two short sides interfered with the filter tray by 1/8" on each side so there was a 1/4" gap between the lid and filter, AND if you could get the tabs in the slots on the back side, the back corners of the lid interfered with the humps on the back of the base that they forced the entire lid so far forward, the tabs came out of the slots
I'm kicking myself for not getting a 'before' pic but what I did was put it on a flat cookie sheet in a 400deg oven for about 8 minutes. That was just enough time to allow the lid to 'relax'. The front corners were now even with the edges, the tabs all pointed straight back, and the bottom of the outlet was pushed up enough to clear the base. If you make a complete circle with the outlet, you can see how it would come into contact with the base
however, the front corners still interfered with the filter tray - you can see how they still curl up at the corners
so I took my trusty orbital sander and gently smoothed the inner edges of the lid lips in order for them to slide over the filter tray. There's still over 1/8" of material left. I then went over the rough sanded areas with a heat gun to smooth them out and make it look like it was cast that way
you can see how nice and smooth the edges are now and how tight the lid seals to the base now - this pic is with the filter and tray in place
I then went a little further (perhaps too far?) and smoothed out the hump on the top of the lid that normally hits the hood of LS1 cars. On the back side, I opened the mouth to imitate the LT1 throttle body. The neck has also been opened significantly as well as the bend on the bottom side. All this was done with a heat gun an inch or two at a time. Its far from perfect and I plan to smooth it out more when I get time
I have a 22deg 4in PVC bend I plan to do similar work to. I'm thinking some time in the oven plus some gentle persuasion should get me a nice, flat bend that will also mimic the LT1 TB opening. I found a 3in fernco fits but just a bit too tight IMHO... so I'll be using two 3.5in silicone couplers between the lid/bend and bend/TB
I purchased this lid for next to nothing and did some experimenting on it. Its a Granatelli and the original purchaser grinded the **** out of it and still couldnt make it fit his base. Frankly, it looked like a blindfolded drunken monkey made it as the rear (4) tabs pointed in all different directions, the 104mm outlet interfered with the base by over a half-inch, the two short sides interfered with the filter tray by 1/8" on each side so there was a 1/4" gap between the lid and filter, AND if you could get the tabs in the slots on the back side, the back corners of the lid interfered with the humps on the back of the base that they forced the entire lid so far forward, the tabs came out of the slots
I'm kicking myself for not getting a 'before' pic but what I did was put it on a flat cookie sheet in a 400deg oven for about 8 minutes. That was just enough time to allow the lid to 'relax'. The front corners were now even with the edges, the tabs all pointed straight back, and the bottom of the outlet was pushed up enough to clear the base. If you make a complete circle with the outlet, you can see how it would come into contact with the base
however, the front corners still interfered with the filter tray - you can see how they still curl up at the corners
so I took my trusty orbital sander and gently smoothed the inner edges of the lid lips in order for them to slide over the filter tray. There's still over 1/8" of material left. I then went over the rough sanded areas with a heat gun to smooth them out and make it look like it was cast that way
you can see how nice and smooth the edges are now and how tight the lid seals to the base now - this pic is with the filter and tray in place
I then went a little further (perhaps too far?) and smoothed out the hump on the top of the lid that normally hits the hood of LS1 cars. On the back side, I opened the mouth to imitate the LT1 throttle body. The neck has also been opened significantly as well as the bend on the bottom side. All this was done with a heat gun an inch or two at a time. Its far from perfect and I plan to smooth it out more when I get time
I have a 22deg 4in PVC bend I plan to do similar work to. I'm thinking some time in the oven plus some gentle persuasion should get me a nice, flat bend that will also mimic the LT1 TB opening. I found a 3in fernco fits but just a bit too tight IMHO... so I'll be using two 3.5in silicone couplers between the lid/bend and bend/TB
02-25-2011, 11:02 AM
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Cornfields near Pontiac, IL
Posts: 1,818
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Looks good when its on the car. Funny thing is alot of people thought I had a LS1 engine at cruise nights just because of the intake setup. lol A 3 or 4 inch cowl hood should allow you to run it without no cutting to the core support or anything crazy like that. I ran a glasstech 4 inch cowl and just notched the underside bracing on the hood and fit like a glove.
Ignore the overflow tank and temporary bleeder valve lol
Ignore the overflow tank and temporary bleeder valve lol
02-25-2011, 11:26 AM
#3
yeah, I failed to mention my goal is to avoid hacking up the base - I plan to drill and weld nuts to the core support and use washers/bolts so it looks like it was installed from the factory
should also mention mine is a '93 so I wont need a MAF
should also mention mine is a '93 so I wont need a MAF
02-25-2011, 02:40 PM
#7
Trending Topics
02-25-2011, 02:53 PM
#9
02-25-2011, 02:58 PM
#10
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Cornfields near Pontiac, IL
Posts: 1,818
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Here is where I cut (rough cut I made, later cleaned it up with a dremel) but just cut to open up the cowl scoop under the hood. Just eyeball where you need to cut and then slowly close the hood and see if you clear, if not, just keep trimming until you do.
03-22-2011, 08:14 AM
#15
I'm going to use it with a WS6 hood I have yet to purchase... so I can only mock it up when I have an hour or two to remove the stock stuff first. My goal is to angle the outlet of the lid directly at the TB so a bend isnt necessary. Havent decided if I'm going to use an oval PVC piece with two silicone connectors or just one long connector
03-23-2011, 08:55 AM
#16
This is really cool - I've always thought about an intake setup which had an outlet the same size as our TB housings. Although, did you end up stretching that opening larger than what it was? What I mean is, do you think the volume of this opening is greater than when the opening was square? (or is it just a different shape?). B/c I guess unless the volume is greater, it doesn't matter what "shape" it is. Either way looks cool. Now they need to create an MAF housing in that shape.
its hard to say... I know it was 104mm (4in) to begin with and a 3in fernco could be forced on with lube... afterwards, the same fernco was just as difficult to get on if not a little more
I didnt stretch it too much...maybe just a little. It was real soft and flexible when hot and I got it into the basic shape I wanted and then sprayed with cold aerosol glass cleaner to make it harden again... used a heat gun to finish the rough spots
03-23-2011, 12:23 PM
#17
That lid opening was originally 4", really? What kind of lid is/was it? (stock, or aftermarket?)
I'm passively considering a lid conversion for my car with one of those SSRA scoopers that sit in front of the rad and grab air just in front of the air dam. I haven't really looked into the actual lids yet but I assumed they were all 3" dia just like my firehawk ram air box and MAF (or 3.5" - however big they are!).
If the lids are all typically 4" openings that sounds very appealing. I'd want to go out and get a larger MAF as well - one of the guys here posted a pic of their 100+mm Lingenflter MAF not to long ago... and I know I wouldn't sleep quite right until I ditched the 58mm TB for a monoblade.
I'm passively considering a lid conversion for my car with one of those SSRA scoopers that sit in front of the rad and grab air just in front of the air dam. I haven't really looked into the actual lids yet but I assumed they were all 3" dia just like my firehawk ram air box and MAF (or 3.5" - however big they are!).
If the lids are all typically 4" openings that sounds very appealing. I'd want to go out and get a larger MAF as well - one of the guys here posted a pic of their 100+mm Lingenflter MAF not to long ago... and I know I wouldn't sleep quite right until I ditched the 58mm TB for a monoblade.
A member purchased it and it didnt even come close to fitting his car so I bought it before he chucked it in the trash.
