LigHtEmUp01

i just rebuilt a 355. its got steel total seal rings and the place i am having tune it said i need to break it in at least 500 miles. anyone agree or disagree??

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Total bullshit.

LigHtEmUp01

what do u reccomend

05HD

Make sure nothing is leaking and the coolant is burped then drop the hammer on it.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Do one heat cycle to check for leaks, set the rockers, etc. Let it cool back off, then drive it, so not abuse it but load the engine to seat the rings. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle up through all the gears, then back down through the gears (important to go both ways).

For the first 50 miles or so do not hold the rpms steady, such as interstate driving.

Change the oil after 50. Then let it rip, providing the tune is right, take ir to the track and put it through the paces.

Change oil again after 500.

Im going to run a 15-40 diesel oil (DELO) for the first 50/500 then switch to german castrol or pennzoil platinum ultra

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Or that. Lol

Works WAY better than a babied break in. That's the worst thing you can o to a new engine.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

LigHtEmUp01

how can a babied break in affect anything

05HD

The more cylinder pressure you make the sooner you can make it, the better the rings will seal.

shbox

Poor ring seal. Something that cannot be reversed if improperly done. A hard break-in is much better for rings that a babied one. "Go both ways" as previously said in regard to cylinder pressure.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Shitty ring seal... read that link....

hitmanws6

iTrader: (20)

I did 50/500, tuned it at 300. Didnt full on drop the hammer but didnt baby it either. Im having no oil issues

1BadAsZ

you gonna run the diesel oil to clean the motor out or something?

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

No. It will be brand new rebuilt ...

Diesel oil is great for several reasons for break in and to run permanently if you're not going synthetic.

High ZDDP, lack of friction modifiers, excellent shear stability, etc

1BadAsZ

ok, i learn something new everyday lol. now if i can just learn how to put together a bottom end and check clearances n stuff ill be on to something

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

An easier way to explain it is to drive it no differently than you normally do. As mentioned, babying it is not good.

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

I've always believed an engine will "act" like the way it was broken in. Go out for some "Spirited" driving after it's warmed up the first time, lol. I've actually used a steep hill a few times and it works pretty good.

09jyounger

iTrader: (3)

I've done pretty much same process as listed above. Run it through the gears varying RPMs for 50 miles (no WOT) change oil, inspect the drain plug and filter just to make sure there's no abnormal wear, then take it out, and tear it up. I normally change oil at 50, 500, 1500, 3000 (using Rotella T5 10W30), but that's just because I'm very careful and if anything is wrong or not set right, I like to know about it. My machinest always told me if he built 2 identical motors; one for a high school kid, and one for an old man, he would never see the high school kid again, but the old man would be back bitching 2 weeks later about oil consumption. So take this as an oppurtunity to "be young again"....or at least that's what you can tell cops

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

I let my new motor idle for a good 30 minutes after I first started it up, this hard break-in stuff is bullshit

idformula

Delo went to a low zinc formula about 2 years ago